Jonnyob

Have you seen this one Ron

There has been a few types seen lex - you are not the first to say g3wo chainguard but when it was a bike for so long in continual development nothing surprises I think a matchless rear guard was used too - but that’s another story for another day 😃 jo’b

Hi Ron you are fairly advanced in your project - when you get to the silencer stage please let us know 1/ what style you are looking at having made 2/ approx cost - can we get a better price if we request a batch br job

H ron I am with Rik on this one Ref the kickstart photos of the contract you are building to show the wider tool box / using a slightly adapted kick start to clear the toolbox would allow its use agreed the earlier bikes with smaller brakes & those seen in tests / have the narrower box the huge number of part numbers created by bsa especially pre war / wartime is something I now take with a pinch of salt - many replicated with tiny changes implemented- the tool box would be a big change jo’b

Good to hear you are recovering ron I meant to ask - what valve springs were you using after you removed the hairspring type - std b31 ?

Hi Ron earlier this year we both 50m of silicon rubber wire / has it recently been stopped by the supplier job

Hi Ron I’m doing this with the m20 on the bench & intend to do with the WB30 when it gets it’s turn where have you hidden the resistor ? have you soldered it in line to the rear light wire or gone another route ? br job

You are going great guns Ron good progress photos too

Lex is correct - in the marine business where I used to be - we would use special filter equipped funnels when transferring fuel from Jerry cans to on board tanks you could clearly see the water being caught if present water side fuel bowsers were always the worst culprits job

Interesting that your motor is still with hairspring’s - what material are your rocker covers by the way ?

Just saw your rear guard more clearly on your last post now I can compare it to the rear I have here also ribbed but from a post war b31 i’ll have questions after I expect br job

Hi ron good to know this - it might suit RM as he has an early model on the go - just as well I didn’t proceed with getting this one fabricated question - does the basic upper loop look ok to use or to follow - if so - the only factor then is the location of the other mounts & where they attach to the rear guard Also notice your chain guard - did you get that with the project or have you cut & shut an m20 or other bsa guards to arrive at that ? br job

How does your rear rack measure against the rack I have Ron - have you fitted this to your rear section yet ? if it’s correct then those of us who need rear racks for our projects can be happy that the rack going to jan will be correct dimensionally for reproduction at his place jo’b

Hi Ron nice work on the rear stays / it’s not a common bsa style this - but seems to be more commonly found on matchless & Norton cycles of the time I will be asking jan to fabricate but after I fix what rear guard I will be using it seems m20 lower stays will fit

He did a nice job on that Ron - I wonder if you could persuade him to make a few more of them ? jo’b

Nice work on the brake plate so far 👍

Great you have noted all this & put it on here it clarifies a lot about this model thanks Jan

Hi lex this is a pre war bsa plate identified by the speedo take off / stub it’s from pre 1939 too I believe due to the small hole for the brake anchor bolt - so possibly 37/38 or earlier the m20 as we know them has a hole & a slotted groove too there are some similarities between m20 & WB30 brake plates but the wb is quite different once you know where to look the plate shown here would have to have significant modification to fit a wb30 with a 7” brake 1/ rotation of the brake pivot & operating arm - braking is in reverse to that of an m20 due to the cable at the rear of the fork 2/the speedo mounting stub needs to be removed an hole filled - the brake arm could not move if left there ron I have an m20 front brake plate ideal for modification if you are stuck - if you are lucky to get a wb30 plate - I will drool over the pictures - they are so very rare

Hi Ron First time posting on this site - I find it very cumbersome I will try to post photos but if I fail / I will send to you Hopefully you will see from this original rear stand only the spring side is double forked the near side is single sided - the stand has been hollowed out in areas in order to reduce weight making the stand in it original form flimsy & perhaps if the bike had seen mass production - an issue in service it could do with heavier tubing - this you have resolved by using an alternative & modified component