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Jag 4.2 with J60 inlet manifold and Solex 48nnip in a BOAT


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Hi

My first post here so here goes, I bought a speed boat with a Jag 3.8 in it, it was seized and bores shot!

Have bought a series 3 injection 4.2 1982 with 80k miles on an auto box, so hoping engine good.

Have acquired the J60 inlet manifold and the Solex carb, the better Marcus one I believe.

I want to take off the injection side of things and run on the carb.

I have the correct marine manifolds for it, the water cooled oil and water heat exchangers, which all run from a water pick up in the outdrive and is spat out the rear with the exhaust through 2 3" pipes , it came like this but in a 3.8 engine.

Any tips or advice will be great, slightly different from a CVRT I know, but I'm loving the fact that I can make this crossover.

I pick the engine up Wednesday from Birmingham and my manifold and Carb are en route.. Here's how it was when I got it........

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IMG_6059.jpg

IMG_6060.jpg

8774C662-C5DE-4D62-AF8A-F525365304D3.JPG

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This is only my opinion, a 4.2 XK engine with 80.000 miles on is well into it's overhaul window. Items like cylinder head studs and water gallery's will be victims of corrosion and sludge build up. Timing chain's and tensioners will require maintenance as will the valves. Take the breather cover off and look at the gauze. This is an old lady and needs looking after and treated with respect if you let her overheat she will pull a liner. There are no lay bye's at sea. 

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Lovely period project you have there - what exactly is the craft, I had ambitions of a Bayliner , however only got as far as Albatross(s)  with CC & Ford power .  The Jag. should 'hit-it'  OK  !

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Hi

Yes the engine will need a lot of love, no rush here on this project, still got a lot of the 3.8 left over as well for some spares and xj6 parts are not that expensive.

The boat is from Norman Fletcher of Fletcher boats, its from around 65 but I cannot be sure, have done a lot of digging in the boating archives and never been able to accurately pin it down.

The original jag 3.8 ( if that was the original engine) was from 64/65 , so maybe.

It is classed as Fletcher Arrow 172V , which means 17'2" long and a deep V hull, which is apparently the base hull that is still in production today.

Its a very thick GRP lay up, back in the 60s they laid the GRP as thick as a wooden boat would be, which makes it very strong, unlike today's Bayliners ( or binliners others call them as the lay up is so thin! ) calculated by a computer no doubt.

It is a long haul project, which I don't mind, I spent the last couple of months saving the trailer, it was on the verge of rotting out. I had to completely refurbish it, with a little welding done at work etc but it's ok now. Really old drum brakes, whitworth nuts and bolts etc.

The boat hull in general is ok, but the transom ( rear end) is rotten and will need new timber and GRP, and where there has been no cover on it for a few years the floor is rotten. Reasonably easy fixes, as all projects, just need the TIME. LOL 

THANKS  Rob 

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Binliner - I like that one ,  seems the Fletch would never have had a Osmosis problem.  My friend had a  Reinell day-boat , never did get to see the engine(s)  , he had to much £ to be interested in lifting the cover.

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2 hours ago, ruxy said:

 

Binliner - I like that one ,  seems the Fletch would never have had a Osmosis problem.  My friend had a  Reinell day-boat , never did get to see the engine(s)  , he had to much £ to be interested in lifting the cover.

Binliner- also used to describe the waste trains going to landfill sites.

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I would remove the engine first and then put a damp meter all over the hull.  Getting it under cover will help it dry out.  I would sort the hull first, then the drivetrain then the cosmetics.  Think ahead with the hull; is the foredeck cleat big enough and strong enough to be towed from?  Where are the bilge pumps and their outlets going to go etc.

 Back end looks more medium than deep v. Add the Jag engine and stern drive and that suggests it was designed as a ski boat.  The stern drive bellows need replacing every 2 years,  as failure equals sinking.  If you are going to sea as opposed to a lake, then worth considering adding a bracket for an aux outboard when you redo the transom.  A secondary means of propulsion is a no brainer at sea.

Happy to advise further if you wish.

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Tjsb,

thanks for your concerns about the hull, but I'm all good with the hull.

ive had boats for years, and currently own a 36' fairline Targa with a pair of huge diesels. This is a little heritage project I'm doing, and I've never messed with Jag engines, in fact the last petrol full engine rebuild I did was a 1300cc ford cortina !

the 3.8 was badly seized and has already been bored to 20 thou over on all cylinders, 30thou is Max then it needs new liners, so not worth it.

just picked up the XJ6 engine Tonight, with all auxiliaries, going to have a good look at what I've got the weekend 

cheers

rob

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Posted (edited)

Robert,

Thanks for the heads up, no intention to teach you to suck eggs!  Fairline 36 boat report was Feb 83 Motorboat and Yachting if of interest.  Mine's a Fairey Spearfish.

Toby

Edited by TJSB
Typos
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Toby

sorry if it sounded like that, didn't mean to ...

great boat the spearfish, all original I guess?

whats your cruising area? I am in Southampton and do a lot of the local area, with a trip to CI at least once a year, and the way things are looking it's going to be the CIs again for a holiday

cheers

rob

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Rob, it didn't sound at all like that, no problem.  I hoped I hadn't sounded like that, so all good.  I am Hamble based boat wise and Solent stomping ground. Planning to be at Cowes week when I have put the boat back together.  I will see if I still have the MBY issue.

 

Best

 

Toby

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On 5/24/2021 at 8:26 PM, Robert Dickinson said:

Any tips or advice will be great, slightly different from a CVRT I know, but I'm loving the fact that I can make this crossover

The one piece of advice I can offer is this: The 48nnip isn’t a bad carb but you will be surprised at how badly an engine will run if the 3 diaphragms (2 accelerator pumps and one enrichment device) aren’t in tip-top condition. 
Best to just replace them (even if they appear to be OK) and keep a spare set. Beware of “New Old Stock” diaphragms that may not be compatible with the ethanol in today’s petrol. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi

so i got the inlet manifold and it has a piece of pipe with a regulator that you manually turn to 2 x small jets on each of the 3 branch inlets.

what is this for as the carb has a choke?

does anyone have a copy of an engine manual I could look at, J60 or at least explain the basics of the J60 cooling system, I know mines completely different, just interested really.

theres a couple of short u tube clips of a fellow starting a J60 that I've watched, and paused several times, and looks like his little pipe is removed and the 2 x jet ports on manifold are blanked off.

just want to be clear on how to plumb the J60 manifold up to my engine.And what the manifold squirters are.

my guess would be some sort of pre start system.

thanks

rob

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Rob,

I think that this is what we call the ki-gas starting system for very cold weather.  The CVR specialists will know for certain.  Nothing to worry about.  Just cap them off because they are never needed.

John

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Dear Rob,

I think that the injection version was simpler because it was not desirable to heat the inlet manifold.  I cannot remember the exact layout.  There must be some form of bypass hose which is essential.  However, I have done exactly what you are seeking to do.  The only caveat, is that I have not worked the engine hard driving the winch in the Conqueror.  

Just make up or buy a gasket to seal all the ports whether coolant of inlet. I use David Manners for classic Jaguar parts. If my memory is correct there is some sort of bypass hose that needs to be in place.. You will obviously have to block up the heater hose outlets.

It is obviously not an engine that likes to be overheated.  Presumably there is an coolant to sea water heat exchanger.

John

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