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Triumph 3SW


pawelcen

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Ron, I think green is also 3HW. See that the torsion damper mount has been removed. This is a photo after sandblasting before  renovation. Later the fork was repaired only in the lower part. And therefore  both have the same width.  Maybe?????

Pawel

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Hi Ron,
I don't know what material it is, but it looks like sand cast iron. Quality it's very bad.
Everything is crooked. I guess this device is the Indian's sneakers and the asphalt of the street. 

I will definitely not be using it for driving.

Was the top part originally cut as in the Indian one?

Pawel

 

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Edited by pawelcen
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Ron, 

until today I knew three types of forks for 3SW/HW.
The Indian copy is still different. It's hard to catch up.

The first in Motorcycle Parts '39, the second in Maintenance Manual 3HW and next  in TRIUMPH from 1937 A.St.J.Masters '55. The Indian copy  is the fourth version. ?????

Pawel

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Str. I Instr. obsługi okładka — kopia_1.jpg

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Str.126-127 Front fork rys — kopia_1.jpg

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Pawel the 1939 list is for the civilian 3S and 3H models (Rubber mounted handlebar). For the WD SW models, the same Triumph forks were used but without the rubber option.

The 3HW were mostly fitted with"bought in" Webb forks.

Personally I would take no notice of what is produced in India.

 

Ron 

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  • 5 months later...

Hi,
my project is progressing very slowly but still moving forward.
Ball race cap made according to Ron's recommendations. I added an O-ring seal.

I have a question about the front fender mounting bolts.
What should the screws A, B and C be? I mean the diameter of the thread, the pitch and the hexagonal dimension of the screw head.
Regards
Pawel

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Screw A B C.jpg

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  • 3 months later...

Hi,

I made the screws according to the BSC standard from stainless steel. They were sandblasted for the military version.


I finally connected the control cables that I made myself according to the patterns. I bought wiring casing similar to the old ones. The only original cable was from the exhaust lever. It needed some repairs.


Time for electrical equipment.
The headlamp is a Lucas MU42 purchased a long time ago from RAF stocks. The rear lamp is a Lucas copy. The horn is original Lucas, but the button is unfortunately new.
Do you know who makes wiring harnesses for Triumph 3SW? Of course, just like in the original.


Best regards
Paul20230830_111532-kopia.thumb.jpg.a92f7419efe2e26c610ee2d6a865081e.jpg

Pancerz stary po naprawie. Pancerz nowy na dole.jpg

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Did you get the cable from Stratil? they make the best stuff, and have the nickel plated endcups too, I will be buying some stuff from them again at the coming Veterama market.

Regarding the wiring harnass, the "Lucas" repro ones are a complete joke, and totally wrong in materials and fitment, best steer clear of them.

Ron here had posted on the WD forum, how to go about making one yourself (maybe he can post it here too??), I have done it many times, and it's easy enough. only problem is where to order the 4mm. oil and petrol resistant silicone rubber cable, as it's almost always out of stock. picture of wire, with the coloured markers, I use heat shrink for that, that looks very much like the originals.

Cheers,

Lex

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Edited by welbike
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Hi Lex,

I bought the cables in Poland from a seller near Warsaw. It has three colors and two diameter sizes. The smaller one for lines of approx. 1.5 mm and the larger one up to 2 mm. It is possible that they come from the same manufacturer.
I thought I would have to do the electrical installation myself.☹️
Were the cables only one color - black?  Were there colored cables like in post-war Triumphs?

Cheers, 

Pawel

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20230624_120208 — kopia.jpg

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Pawel,

I mean the control cables, they are being made in Germany now , very perfect woven and lacquered fabric.

The electrical cables is a whole different thing, only black rubber was used, can now be bought, if you're lucky as a fuel and oil resistant silicone rubber.

Cheers,

Lex

Edited by welbike
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This is what I wrote as I can't understand anyone who buys a ready made loom.  Ron

Since there has been discussion about “wiring” I thought I’d right up a tutorial on how “I” do it. (I’ve done about 3 dozen over the years, starting with readymade looms. Which to my mind are a waste of time and money, with wrong connectors which are often in the wrong place or not needed at all)   The original cable was black rubber with just colour tags on the ends. (For these I use small lengths of different colours of shrink wrap) I’ve been fortunate for many years to be able to buy silicon rubber cable that replicates the original (But it seems hard to find lately.) Ordinary black plastic cable can be used with the bits that show emeried or scotched to remove the gloss.  I always start with the regulator which has four terminals held in with hollow tube connecters ( the terminals are marked F A D E) . Before I mount the regulator to the frame, I connect three lengths to F D and E long enough to reach the magdyno area and one length to A, long enough to reach to the headlamp. Ultimately F&D are connected to the corresponding terminals on the dynamo and the E (Earth) wire is connected to the grub screw at the bottom of the mag. A further shorter wire is connected to the grub screw and goes back to your battery Neg (earth) terminal. You can clearly see how it goes in this B&W RE picture. Although lots of guys prefer to make the earth points by nut and bolt to a convenient part of the frame.  Once the regulator is mounted and it’s wires connected. I then concentrate on the headlamp. I run four wires only to the headlamp through about 18” of rubber sheath (Old bicycle inner tube) The long “A” wire from the regulator which goes to one side of the ammeter, then another similar length from the other side of the ammeter back to the battery Poss terminal. I run an earth wire from the headlamp which can be connected directly to the battery or a convenient earth point on the frame. The final long wire goes from the headlamp down the right side of the bike to the tail lamp.  The wiring diagrams will usually show the live feed for the horn coming from the headlamp, but I think it’s congested enough, so run it directly from the battery. I also slightly modify the wiring by taking the Regulator “A” wire directly to the ammeter then a wire from that terminal on the ammeter back to 3 on the light switch. That way I am only trying to squeeze two wires instead of three into the awkward grub screw terminal.  The wiring diagram shows how all the wires are connected to the light switch and bulbs. The horn is earthed via the horn push on the right side of the handlebar. Finally a brake light switch can also be added to the left side of the bike.  It’s not rocket surgery!! I'm open to questions and debate. Ron 

Edited by Ron
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Thanks Ron,
Forty years ago, I built an installation using colorful PVC cables with FIAT type connectors. But it was my own creation. I had no role model. Today I would like to do it like the original.
Could you send photos of how the cables are routed? What color tips were on each end?
I have a regulator, but unfortunately not the original Lucas. I have to check the connector mounting tomorrow.
Cheers
Pawel

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Pawel,

You will have to use the wiring diagram, as it is in the manual, but they are mostly the same for all WD bikes.

All the colours are stated on there.

For the sheating use the smallest size inner tube for a racing bicycle, and turn it inside out, to get rid of the markings and such.

Let me or Ron know if you need more info, we worked this out some time ago!

Cheers,

Lex

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As Lex said. A piece of inner tube around the left side headstock to the headlamp. The regulator is fitted to the frame tube on the left below the saddle. The tail lamp wire goes down the right side of the rear frame. 

Just follow the wiring diagram with maybe some help from the way I do it.  Ron

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Hi,

I have such cables in my lamp. This is not a pre-war lamp. I think it's from the 1950s. The ammeter is made of plastic and the glass is not flat. Siemens light bulbs made in England have the inscription "Lucas No. 168 Tested" on them. 😁
Should I look for cables like the black one?

Best regards

Pawel

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Yes Pawel, is postwar, for some reason they wired the bulb holder like that after the war, maybe to use up stock? (Lucas car wiring did have the braided wire) but that is just an assumption.

Best is to find the 4mm. diameter, 25mm2  oil and petrol resistant Silicone rubber cable, let me know if you find some please!

Cheers,

Lex

Edited by welbike
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