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Triumph 3SW


pawelcen

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Hi,

I would like to change the original concept of restoring my two bikes.
Let me remind you:
- the first is from the C5108 order and has the original: frame, front fork, engine, normal (fast) gearbox, oil and fuel tank without panel, rear mudguard with light holder and wheels.
- the second has a frame from a later order C6128, a wide ratio gearbox and an original oil tank. The crankcase consists of two different halves. The left one has the engine number from earlier order C5108.

Plus I have an original front mudguard, fuel tank with control panel.

Second front and rear mudguards and front fork are copies from India.

Since the first one is mostly original, I think to make it to the specification as it was produced in 1940, i.e. military green. The original parts would be assembled on this bike.

The second would be made as a civilian version in black with chrome elements and a fuel tank with panel controls.
The front fork, mudguards from India, would go to him. And the original fuel tank with control panel.

I gave up on the idea of making an RAF version.

Help me decide, is this a good idea?🤔

Best regards .

Pawel

 

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Ron, Lex, thanks for your feedback.
I will have to change both topics, or joint them into one.


I looking for a part of the engine plate front shield F1684. Do you know who makes these parts? Maybe I'll do it myself, it's not very complicated. Do you know how thick this part is made of?
Regards

Pawel

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi.
Today, the bottom of the engine was assembled.
As per Brian's recommendations, I determined the thickness of the washers:

Quote

I only use a shim between flywheel and bearing if it needs it. A bit of trial and error to stop any side to side movement and Center the conrod in the cylinder.

After completion, assembly today was easy. I heated and froze the parts one by one so that they could be assembled without a hammer and press. Everything worked out and the engine is ready for further work.
Regards

Pawel365586039_1.Settomounting.thumb.jpg.5068ce5e0197db0374298de915fdd963.jpg

2. Crankcase heating 200 degree Celsius.jpg

3. Crankshaft freezing.jpg

4. Crankcase clutch side with crankshaft.jpg

5. Crankcase clutch side with crankshaft freezing.jpg

6. Engine after mounting clutch side.jpg

7. Engine after mounting right side.jpg

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I understand you're talking about pure aluminum, no screws, no bearings etc.

Once upon a time I had to make lubrication channels in a ball bearing. After grinding, I washed it very briefly with water, but the bearing was only fit to be thrown away. Oiling did not help.
Today no water, just to drink.😃

Pawel

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I can't find a picture of a 3SW cylinder head that's upside down. If your head is the right shape and fits ok, I wouldn't worry about the relieve you have in the "squish" area. At worst it can only reduce the compression by a fraction. How do we know that the Cornucopia head is correct. I'm no expert, but it seems to me that you need a bit of gap for the flame to travel through. I expect Brian will know.

It's just a hardened washer for the valve lifter.   Ron

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This red head (Ferrari 😂) cannot be seen better.
There are different solutions for combustion chambers, so I don't know which one is original.

For example american school.

WARSZAWA M20 ŻUK GŁOWICA NOWA - 7457830720 - oficjalne archiwum Allegro

German construction.

Głowica cylindra BMW R12 R11 Pruszcz Gdański - Sprzedajemy.pl

I will have to remove the head from another copy and compare them.

Pawel

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