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So despite (or possibly because of) these uncertain times, I have found time to go into the workshop.

Stopping short of rubber solution and sticky back plastic, I did my best "Blue Peter" and made a cardboard prototype handle for my repaired valve-chest cover. Kellogs "Fruit and Fibre", though other cereal boxes can also be used. Cut four blanks out of mild steel and punched the rivet holes using a natty little turret punch.



Punch was found on the heap at our local scrapyard.


Next to the fly-press and bent to shape.



Two handles riveted into place. (1 coat of red-oxide primer on the mating faces first). Then a coat of red oxide all over.




While I had the brush in the pot, the silencer brackets got a coat too!


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OK, if you felt a little cheated by the last post, this one has more substance to it. General topic: getting stuff off the floor and back on the lorry.  I needed a small quantity of 5/16" BSF sin

A  few parts from ww1. original photo taken from my glass neg. ASC stores 1918, don`t know if they fit a Karrier.  Keith  

Having briefly subverted the thread with talk of roofing techniques and crane envy (which is perfectly fine with me by the way) it's time for another update on the Karrier.  I've marked out and d

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I've been encouraged to share a few more details of the punching machine. So here you go...


Close-up of the front of the turret: smallest  punch is 1/8"and largest punch is 1/2"


Full range of punches available. Can punch 1/2" diameter through 1/8" material. Doesn't say what material!


Side View

It sees a lot of use nibbling out gaskets, though you would never know as I swept up before taking the photographs.

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As one of the fortunate few who can walk across the yard to get to the workshop, I feel duty bound to share with those who cannot in these unusual times. So here's some pictures from earlier this year re-fitting  the clutch.


Flywheel painted, ready to receive clutch components. Grease applied to mating face.


In with the clutch cone.


Followed by the cover...


and the spring.


Winding in the spring adjuster with the new laser cut spanner.


Note the grub screw and locking slot in the adjuster.


Clutch release bearing, stop, lock nut, spacer and repaired retaining bolt for the drive coupling.

Retaining bolt had deep gouges as a result of having been undone with a hammer and cold chisel. These have been welded up and filed back to shape.


And back in position.


New 3/8"BSF nuts and bolts from Trojan Special Fasteners at Birmingham.


Pedal shaft and bearings ready for lifting into position...


Pedal shaft in position. Thanks to my brother David for being a second pair of hands.


Clutch stop and drive coupling fitted.

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Not everything yields to the hydraulic puller.

The spring saddles are tight on their bearings where they rotate about the back axle. The first indication that something was wrong came when I removed the bottom cap of the torque tube ball coupling. Based on Leyland RAF type experience, prior to undoing the bolts, I had taken the weight with the high-lift pallet truck. As I lowered the pallet truck I expected to lower the torque tube to the ground. In reality it hung suspended in mid-air.


Having removed the off-side rear wheel, spring and brake mechanism (more of that in another post)  I thought is would be a comparatively easy job to withdraw the various parts.

Drawer plates were made, along with requisite spacers and an aluminium centre plug to go in the end of the axle tube.


Drilling through both plates with tapping drill. (Plates 20 mm thick mild steel, laser cut from dxf)

Starting the tap in the upper plate (thread = 3/4" UNF)IMG_0110.thumb.JPG.6914c3bbbeb62a041e044f78dd85c169.JPG

Finishing the thread by hand  on the edge of the bench.


Drilling clearance holes in the second plate.


The puller in all its glory. 3/4" diameter rods from off-cuts of EN16T

On with the puller, wound it up as tight as it would go... and... nothing!


The stubborn brake hanger bracket is splined to the rear axle. I should point out that this like most castings on the Karrier chassis is steel. Had it been cast iron I would not have dreamt of taking this approach. Everything was grease and oil, so unlikely to be rusted together. Perhaps these have fretted together over the years. Not wanting to damage anything, I reverted to plan "B". 


Judicious application of heat...


And from underneath. Note the two fragments of fire brick.


In with the pudrick and tightening the nuts.

I had practised this operation while everything was still cold, so everything went to plan.


Candle wax makes a good high temperature lubricant.

Then a lot of two and fro on the hard work end of the pudrick. It's not completely free but there's a lit more movement than there was and nothing broken, which has to be a plus!

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Sorry the last post was out of sync. I shall endeavour to play catch-up over the coming days and weeks.

So here's the off side back wheel being removed (October 2019).


Chassis supported on rear spring hanger, bottle jack under the back axle housing to lift the wheel off the ground.


Retaining nut and locking plate removed and wheel slid along the axle, exposing the brake shoes.


On with a strap and the crane just taking the weight.


Wheel swung free of the axle.




Brakes and spring looking a bit sorry for themselves.


As soon as this picture was taken a second axle stand was placed under the end of the axle. 

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Torque Tube.

I went round and removed all the split pins from the torque tube retaining bolts, loosened and removed all bar one of the bolts from the flange where this part is fixed to the back axle. With the aid of a second pair of hands, the last bolt was removed and the torque tube lowered down onto a pallet.


Torque tube removed


Spherical head. Note the hole drilled through and its orientation relative to the oil bung.


With the bung vertical, the drilled hole lines up with the oiler fitting to the left of the greaser.


Flange end of the torque tube. Note the rust scour in the tube ant the chisel cut across the flange, which marks the top.

So there's another mystery solved.


Final drive input shaft and bearing.


and with the muff coupling. 

Final drive all turns freely, though there is a little bit of room on the splines of the input shaft and coupling.


Bolts from the flange joint.

So this weekend's tasks were broadly as follows:


Knocking out a new gasket


A fragment of original black paint. (the green is preservation era paint)


Sanded down, paraffin washed and drying in the sunshine.


Phosphate conversion coating on the rusty bits and two coats of read oxide primer all over.


Prop shaft with cleaned and reassembled Hooke's joint.

Pins and bushes are case hardened steel and show hardly any wear.

Nuts and bolts from the flange joint have been cleaned up and prepared for painting. Bolts have had a die-nut over the threads. Castle nuts were new in 1977 and are still as new now.


Even the bolts are stamped with part numbers!

From now on I am going to try and maintain some discipline. I will endeavour to post as follows: weekends will be up to date, midweek I'll try and fill in the gaps - play catch-up. If nothing else, in these unusual times, it will help people tell the days apart. Or get completely muddled up.


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A while ago I posted a drawing of a "Petrol Motor Lurry To Carry 4 Tons", kindly provided by Geoff Lumb.

Well, since then I've been busy on Solidworks and have produced a 3D model of the cab and lurry and mounted them on the model of my chassis. I've only modeled ironwork / brackets for the near side also have yet to complete the tailboard and hinges.

Some screenshots below:


Near Side View


Off Side Rear 3/4 View


Front View (sorry, no radiator!)


Rear View.

And a special treat: video capture. Sorry about the watermark - trial version software.

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Some more catch-up from November - December 2019. Off Side rear brake shoes removed from their calipers. Everything thoroughly de-rusted and treated with phosphate conversion coating prior to painting. Threads cleaned up, new nuts and washers fitted. Re-usable Grover washers saved for somewhere more visible. Leaf spring, pins and links got the same treatment at this time.IMG_3289.thumb.JPG.e46e0ee7ec3b53fab7c79828b4e907e9.JPG

Dismantled and ready for cleaning


Red oxide primer.

Chain blocks and gantry seemed a convenient way of hanging the spring for painting. Then there was the smaller bits... A ladder across the gantry seemed like a good idea at the time, though the number of times I've had to limbo under it to get across the shed - glad it is no longer there!


Grey undercoat


First coat black. Top coat will to be applied after re-assembly

Back together


And a dab of red oxide on the nuts

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It's the end of the weekend, which means an up to date post.

It's been a busy few days cleaning, de-rusting and painting back axle components, prior to reassembly.


Like the steering box, the back axle assembly also has  lodges where water can collect - in this case, between buttresses supporting the torque tube mating flange.


To work with the chipping hammer, followed by a wire brush on the drill - looking much more respectable. A good brush full of the rather pungent Jenolite and these surfaces turned black. 


It's so rewarding to see parts all one colour.


The Karrier has a double reduction back axle with bevel first reduction then spur gear second reduction. The differential is of the spur gear pattern. The design is such that practically any sub-assembly can be removed without disturbing the others. Note the adjustment for crown wheel / pinion mesh.


The ever so useful high lift pallet truck in position to take the weight of the back axle sump.


Difficult to get the truck close enough - the pallet was balanced right on the end of the forks. Note the G clamp to keep the pallet from tipping.




And there it is, in all its (slightly out of focus) glory


And after a lot of sanding and washing, washing and sanding, starting to look a bit more respectable


Once again, nice to see it all one colour.


A view of the differential from underneath. In the top right of the picture you can just make out the pinion of the second reduction.

Sunday. The day of rest, for some...


My elder brother takes after our Grandfather in so much as he does not do his laundry on the sabbath. To be fair, i'm not sure if Grandfather ever did his own laundry, but do I recall him declaring my mother a heathen for hanging her washing out on a Sunday. I digress... The point is that I was able to borrow a handful of clothes pegs to keep the gasket in place while I lifted the sump back up into position.


In position, engaged on the studs and a couple of nuts in place. Clothes pegs removed before nuts and bolts done up tight.

Easter Monday. Re-assembling the prop shaft and torque tube. Oh! How we struggled with this job. First task was to fit the prop shaft into the torque tube. Then lift in position and try and wiggle the shaft so that the splines would engage with the muff coupling. Then push the torque tube back and try and re-unite the mating flanges. Except that the spherical end fouled the cross member. So out with the bolts, drive the offending part up, out of the way (hammer and a block of wood) before finally getting the torque tube bolted up. 

Sorry for the lack of action shots; I was a little too cross at the time to take pictures.  


Mobile gantry and chain blocks for this job - a bit more controllable than the crane.


Taking the weight on a strap. Note the cross member driven up, out of the way.



The results of a morning's hard work. Thanks to my brothers for lending a hand.





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It's midweek again. So time for another catch-up post. We're back to November - December 2019...

The near-side rear wheel was removed in order to access the brakes, spring etc and swiftly took its turn in the washing - preparing - painting routine. The wheel was first transferred onto a rather handy painting stand using the travelling crane.


My brother Gerald built the stand to make the wheels from his IHC Mogul tractor a bit more manageable. As you can see, the wheel on its stand can be moved (with care) using a pallet truck. Next to go on the stand were David's Leyland RAF type wheels. Now it's my turn...


The stand is adjustable for height. These parts started life as the jacking feet on the side of a portacabin. The rest was from the scrap pile. 


Second coat red oxide primer


Grey undercoat


First coat green


Is now good and hard and awaiting sanding and top coat.

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On 1/19/2020 at 8:58 PM, andypugh said:

Nice to see something from Huddersfield in preservation. Is the truck still in the North?

One of these days I would like to find a "Dalesman" motorcycle, made in Marsden. 

And don't worry about the lack of military connection, this little corner of HMVF has become the secret haunt of the solid-tyred commercial vehicle weirdos in general. 


My dad made the Dalesman motorcycle

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20 hours ago, Doc said:

My brother Gerald built the stand to make the wheels from his IHC Mogul tractor a bit more manageable. 


I don't want to derail the thread but wouldn't mind seeing a picture of the Mogul, is it a 8-16 or 10-20?

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Actually neither. It's a 12-25. Nearly done now. Lock-down has interfered with the delivery of the new 1st reduction chain. I walk past  the tractor most days to get to my Karrier. Maybe over the weekend I'll take the dust sheets off and sneak a couple of pictures for you.

My brother had hoped to debut the tractor at "Woolpit Steam" this year. But that, like so many events has had to be cancelled.

All the best.


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Off topic - true, but in the circumstances, lock-down and all... The roller under cover is a Barford and Perkins model D3 of 1914. It also belongs to my elder brother.

Apart from the single roll at the front it is essentially the same as my D4, which was built for the War Office in 1915 for use rolling grass strip runways.


1914 Barford and Perkins D3 number D005 at "Woolpit Steam" in 2009.


1915 ex. War Office Barford and Perkins D4 number E071 waiting to hitch a ride to the Great Dorset Steam Fair, 2018.


All loaded and being strapped down in readiness for the long  journey to Dorset.

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Don't worry about being off topic. We all love old machinery of all sorts!

I worked at Barfords years ago and we had a D3 plinthed in the yard. I was always pleased to see it when I walked past. I do hope it found a good home.

Great progress with the Karrier. You make us look positively pedestrian!

Steve  :)

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What a coincidence! This is the very same roller you knew at Barfords. Gerald won the Road Roller Association  trophy for its restoration. My J-type also came from Barfords. Unfortunately, whenever it gets close to the front of the queue some other deserving project comes along. Still, it's in the dry and saved from the scrap man.

So far as rate of progress is concerned, you're starting from scratch. I'm finishing off on this project. 

Also very fortunate to be working from home at the moment, so get to devote evenings and weekends. As soon as we get back to normal, I expect progress to slow up considerably.



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It is interesting to note the diversity some of us have in our collections. I too have some rollers, with a Barford & Perkins sitting waiting for another  space of time for more work on restoration That carries the ID JJ105. Others wait in line like so many other projects whether it be for parts, time or money . Aveling & Porter steam roller  11688 is fully operational and is a joy to get out on. 

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21 hours ago, nz2 said:

Is the RAF Leyland also part of the family treasures?

Yes. My brother David is working on that one. There's a thread on this little corner of hmvf concerning the workshop.

He's still looking for an inlet manifold for the Leyland.

I'll PM you about rollers, so as to not completely derail this thread.



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OK that's enough meandering. It's the end of the weekend, so back on course with a progress update.

Continuing on with the torque tube, the chassis cross member was bolted back in position. A light smear of grease on the mating faces ensured that it went back into position a little easier than when it was driven up. Next the trusty high lift pallet truck was wheeled into position. A generous smear of grease was applied to the spherical cap prior to fitment. It was slowly lifted into position being balanced on the small round pad where the greaser screws in. It was only lifted far enough to get the nuts to start on the four 3/4" BSF bolts that secure the two halves together. Thereafter the bolts were tightened evenly until the joint was pulled up tight.


Lifting the torque tube and cap


Cap in position


Fitting the first tension brace.


Both tension braces in position.

Nuts and bolts have now been worked up to green / black.

Have now made a start on the steering drag link.IMG_0250.thumb.JPG.e4bb385d4cc5cdd14f1716584341706f.JPG

As removed from the chassis.


Dismantling the front ball joint


Dismantling the rear ball joint. This one was tight! Lucky to have an 1.1/4" Whitworth spanner in the tool box. Heat, oil and a lot of too-and fro required.


This thread is going to need some cleaning up. 1.5/8" x 16 tpi Whit form. Another odd one...


Parts in first coat red oxide after the usual treatment. The large flat washers serve to keep at least some of the grease in and dirt out of the ball joints. There's four light springs, one per flat washer to keep everything in place. 


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