darrentovey Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 hi,i am trying to remove my exhaust/inlet manifolds,they appear to be stuck on the studs underneath where the studs go right through,i have soaked with wd40,any ideas welcome,shall I get some heat on them?thanks in advance,darren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1950 Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Heat and lubrication a little at a time, and a large slice of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 (edited) One useful trick, gently warm some engine oil till surface starts to rainbow then pour slowly over stuck articale. Adding a bit of Disiel fuel will make it less viscous. Freezer spray can also work very well if you can direct it onto the stud. Edited April 3, 2017 by Tony B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Johns Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 (edited) hi,i am trying to remove my exhaust/inlet manifolds,they appear to be stuck on the studs underneath where the studs go right through,i have soaked with wd40,any ideas welcome,shall I get some heat on them?thanks in advance,darren Alas a common problem with Dodge exhaust manifolds rusting onto the two long studs, wd40 won't help or any penetrating fluid is of little use in this situation due to the length of the studs. Remove the inner wing panel to gain access between the front wing and the tyre and apply Lots of heat with blow lamp to the exhaust manifold around the studs...and hope....some extreme methods I've had to resort to, the manifold may move enough away from the block to get a hacksaw blade in the gap where the gasket would be and saw through the studs!, with the manifold off then try to drill out the rusted studs in a pillar drill, I have tried to drill out the studs with the manifold on the engine and its its almost impossible to keep the drill from wandering off line into the cast manifold. Be carefull when trying to separate the manifolds, as the bolts will shear off in the inlet manifold as well. If all fails alas...The Final resort,.. which I have also done, is to break the exhaust manifold into pieces with a club hammer !!. then drill out broken studs in the block and fit a new manifold ! Edited April 6, 2017 by Nick Johns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankdriver Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 WD40 is not a good penetrating oil. Get some Kroil Penetrating Oil, or PB Blaster, even the old Liquid Wrench is better than WD40. Spray it and let it set a couple of days, then try again.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matchlesswdg3 Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 We had a similar problem on a motorcycle site with stuck exhaust studs......same issues of stud rusted into the fitting. Consensus was that penetrating fluids will not work......but yes, WD40 is pretty useless as such anyhow (I use PlusGas). It was thought that Freezing sprays were likely to be ineffectual as well. Best to use as much heat as appropriate to the metallurgy. In the motorcycle case, the studs had to be drilled out in the end and this was done by a local engineer at modest cost. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 Rather than using a direct flame you might give a a hot air gun a try on the hottest setting (the type used for paint removal) with a small nozzle you have to cook it a bit with the nozzle close to the work piece. I've found it works well on sized parts and provides a very localized heat and tends not to cause as much secondary damage as the hot spanner. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrentovey Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 well,after much sweat and tears I made enough gap for the dreaded hacksaw blade:-\,its off now,,,i have all radiator out at the moment ,is it worth me replacing the fuel line,can the original reinforced stuff be bought at somewhere like dallas autos,,thanks so much for all of the advice I am sure I will be on here again,,,darren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 With all the work your doing, be daft to spoil the ship for a h'aporth of tar. New fuel line isn't that pricey. I'd check, paint, grease and replace any odd bit whilst you have the room to do so. Plenty of copper grease or anti size on any bolt going back in as well. You never know! And a future custodian will bless you. :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Going back to this. Does anyone know of a tool that would vibrate something like this. I don't mean beat the C** out it, but sort of an ultrasonic wrench? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matchlesswdg3 Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 Going back to this. Does anyone know of a tool that would vibrate something like this. I don't mean beat the C** out it, but sort of an ultrasonic wrench? Use a (borrowed?) compressed air powered tool. Pretty vicious! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1950 Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 You could try an air chisel with a flat head tool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 Might experiment on a pice of old junk. Now where is there a Jeep? :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1950 Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 Thats not nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 Might experiment on a pice of old junk. Now where is there a Jeep? :-D Harsh Tony harsh :evil: pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatchFuzee Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 Going back to this. Does anyone know of a tool that would vibrate something like this. I don't mean beat the C** out it, but sort of an ultrasonic wrench? Not an ultrasonic wrench but have you seen an induction heater? A useful thread here:- http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=2099944454&frmid=5&msgid=1020410&cmd=show A review of the Sykes-Pickavant Induction Heater Plus:- http://www.toolbusiness.co.uk/reviews/The-New-Induction-Heater-Plus-From-Sykes-Pickavant-Leave-No-Bolt-Unstuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 Not an ultrasonic wrench but have you seen an induction heater? A useful thread here:- http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=2099944454&frmid=5&msgid=1020410&cmd=show A review of the Sykes-Pickavant Induction Heater Plus:- http://www.toolbusiness.co.uk/reviews/The-New-Induction-Heater-Plus-From-Sykes-Pickavant-Leave-No-Bolt-Unstuck Never come across this tool before very interesting thanks for posting Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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