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matchlesswdg3 last won the day on September 29

matchlesswdg3 had the most liked content!


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  1. I have never been stopped wearing one - and that included when a policeman was checking through the string of riders on a War & Peace hideout. Mind you, on that occasion, a couple of blokes were sporting battle bowlers and that got the law's attention! They DR helmets also "passed" scrutiny for riding on the Goodwood track.......although some coercion may have been involved (anybody experienced Ron breathing down your neck?!). On the other hand its probably not good to ponder on the performance of a DR helmet in a T-bone or similar. You pays your money and you takes your chance. So I would not criticise anyone for wearing a modern open face helmet (full face looks a bit naff).
  2. Try this link - worked for me with just a chassis number and vehicle type. (thanks to Richard Farrant) https://www.rlcarchive.org/VehicleSrch
  3. Looks like a good solution for the floor which is heavy gauge alloy like yours. Thanks!
  4. "I avoided Exmoor Trim because of their reviews.". Yes, I am looking at replacing an Exmoor tilt on my Lightweight which is actually in pretty good nick and probably not very old but it is a poor fit in the places where it needs to be a good fit! The mention of All Wheel Trim covers therefore grabbed my attention as people seem to be satisfied with the quality and fit and apparent allowance made in the cut for some shrinkage. Not sure how price compares with UC, but I imagine they are similar.
  5. The tub floor and its underpinnings are pretty good, if riddled with holes and it even has most of its original strakes, but thats an interesting link - thanks!
  6. Hmmm, Laurence.....I am not too fussy, but with all the patches it would need, it might look a bit like this! Various Landy forums suggest TIG welding works and is the "non-bodge" option....but I do not have a TIG welder and that seems a lot of work (a lot of holes!). I am going to give JB Weld Steelstik putty a try......it says this is the sort of job its good for and I have used JB Weld to repair all kinds of tricky stuff when stuck out on the road. We shall see, but any more suggestions welcome.
  7. My Lightweight is plagued by (around 3-8mm) holes drilled in the alloy panels - mainly in the tub floor but it looks like a previous owner decided that he would make the Lightweight lightweight! And/or he got a new Black & Decker for Xmas. Question: what is the best way to fill them before painting over? My inclination would be to use a patch of glass fibre mat on the rear and fill from the seen side. "Obvious" solution is to weld them - expensive! Difficult? The panels are otherwise straight so I don't want to replace them.
  8. Undercover Covers seems to get good reviews for their tilts, but I have just come across this alternative supplier based in Oxfordshire who has had good feedback. Might be useful as I understand Undercover Covers has had problems keeping up with the demand and/or staffing? https://www.allwheeltrim.co.uk/homepage.html#Homepage
  9. IJM Restorations wired in the blackout lights front and back on my WC54 as indicators, but that was part of rewiring. Looks good though and presumably you can do the same as a standalone circuit.
  10. I wonder what the DVLA records THIS as?!! [actually, only as a green Ford....disappointing!] Note - rear wheel has obviously been shot out at some stage - by one of those BMW Focke-Wulfs?
  11. On Facebook marketplace. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1910166439131950/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Aedcb1b66-9add-4526-9d12-7ada930d9f2f
  12. This is what DVLA says and looking at it closely, I guess the key phrase is: "......to change the way the vehicle works." I just wondered if any of you had actual experience of this situation. As you say, how would anyone know if a like for like replacement was made. I guess the only difference to the way a military Land Rover would work when it has a new chassis is that you could not track it from the trail of rust and lumps of bitumastic underseal? "Vehicles that do not need an MOT You do not need to get an MOT if: the vehicle was built or first registered more than 40 years ago no ‘substantial changes’ have been made to the vehicle in the last 30 years, for example replacing the chassis, body, axles or engine to change the way the vehicle works If you’re not sure if there have been any substantial changes you can: read the full guidance on MOT exemptions for historic vehicles speak to a historic vehicle expert Vehicles exempt from vehicle tax If your vehicle was built before 1 January 1981, you can stop paying vehicle tax from 1 April 2021. If you do not know when your vehicle was built, but it was registered before 8 January 1981, you do not need to pay vehicle tax from 1 April 2021.
  13. No, if its had a major change, like change of engine or chassis, it will need an annual MoT even if its over 40 years old. Thats as per DVLA notes, but its not specific on whether such a change affects eligibility for nil tax.
  14. I would be grateful if someone could confirm my understanding in the case of a Land Rover that IS over 40 years old (as per stated date of manufacture on V5c) but has had a new chassis some 6 years ago. I think it IS eligible for Historic Vehicle status and therefore zero tax, but needs an annual MoT. Correct? Thanks!
  15. Richard, the cab is fitted as standard WC54 ambulance and the load area is stripped out - as was done by BP technicians, adding just a radio table behind the cab seats. Everything was free standing and I have the correct radios and ancillary gear (these are all special equipment used by Bletchley Park), including 30' aerial and 'Tiny Tim' battery charger. As part of the resto', the damaged load area lining was stripped out together with the cardboard insulation and replaced with modern insulation sheet and covered with thin marine ply so that it looks like the original but is more durable. This is the inside part way through the work. The equipment and layout is as per the descriptions provided by the actual Royal Signals operators concerned.
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