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Restoration Tools


CharlieH

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Afternoon,

 

I'm about to start stripping a 1944 Willys and I am looking for a sand blasting / spraying set up with a compressor. The plan is to strip it down and repaint all the parts as it's currently wearing a Norwegian green. As I'm sure many on here have done the same has anyone got any advice or recommendations?

 

Anything else you'll recommend before starting out?

 

Thanks in advance

Charlie

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As above, we need pics for our daily fix!

If you planning on doing other vehicles, don't buy cheap as won't last.

Sandblasting large stuff, hire a large soda blaster and farmers empty field to do it in,plus it's biodegradable so no clean up! For some areas have mobile blasters but some of the blast material bit harsh for vehicle panels!! Small bench mounted blast cabinet for small stuff.

For spraying, about 100 litre tank, and largest CFM you can, May be able to use air tools then like Sanders, drills, grinder etc.

If spraying you will need a vapour trap inline too as well as a filter.

Loads of advice and info out there. Have fun

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10 cfm (FAD) is a 3hp motor on single phase , you can just cope with (just) using a industry standard Devilbiss JGA , BUT on a biggish air-cap you are better with 15 cfm (FAD) . So on domestic 1ph you don't wish to have two motors starting on full load (and in any case you will be using heavy , like a 45 amp cooker connection unit). I normally run one compressor on continuous and another on "auto" to boost the tank(s). Having said that , I have a cable across the attic for a catenary to a new shed / garage where I will do most shot blasting (15 cfm (FAD) I find is absolute minimum for continuous using small hand pot-gun.

Unfortunately I am on wrong side of river for 3 phase supply for garages, A Fordson with PTO two-tool is needed.

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Thanks for the advice, I think I may need to do a little more reading first, there seems to be a huge mount of choice and ideally I'd like a compressor to work both for blasting, spaying and tools, although for the bigger bit I will probably call in the professionals.

 

Anyway here is is a little teaser for those that asked...more will follow in the US section once I get going.

 

image.jpg1_zpslc7rmixr.jpg

Edited by CharlieH
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we use the needle gun a lot and to some extent easier than a sand/grit blaster re mess. For your panels needle gun will be really fast....go steady with it though don't want to warp any of the lighter panels. but it may be just as easy with an orbital sander, see below...

 

sand blasting would be great for the chassis once stripped but I would get a local firm to do that. make sure you have no bearing/rolling parts on the chassis as the grit gets everywhere no matter how hard you cover things up.

 

a single phase compressor can work if you get a 32 amp direct feed, as said like a cooker connection, not through a 13amp plug. dual compressors can work via a 13 amp plug but for the amount of work you will do with air tools I would not bother.

 

Go with a good quality battery impact drill and forget the dual compressors. infact get a combo set of battery powered impact drill, hammer drill, angle grinder all using the same lithium ion batteries. This will be more useful than power tools and just as capable. and have an air compressor for blowing things spraying and inflating tyres. (still get the biggest and best money can buy)

 

Get a good impact drill socket set and drill set, get some nut remover sets, to be used on the inevitable rusty bolts lots of wd-40, goggles for eye protection when using the grinder etc, and make sure you have a plenty-full supply of tea and biscuits.

 

you will need all the usual suspects re basic tools but you need a good engineers vice, two even, secured properly for you to use as an anvil and a vice, (sorry Mr Wainwright, my school metalworking teacher would kill me for saying that) or get an anvil as well and a nice hammer.

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Mikita are the cordless I'd recommend. Reason I bought them is someone I know, who refits cylinder heads with a hammer, can't breack them! The other thing is you can buy a tool with the batteries, then the tools without batteries as the batteries fit the lot. A little Dremel type tool is also invaluable. There are lots of tiny bits that need cleaning and firckling.

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I once bought an SDS hammer drill off ebay, it may even have been a Mikita, it looked well made and did the job quite well, by chance I found a website that pointed out that quite a few people had been electrocuted by this drill and trading standards had condemned the make of drill, a Chinese import.

 

Horrified I promptly cut off its lead and put a hammer through the drill.

 

I also bought - again off ebay - a 250 watt soldering iron, upon examination I found that the metalwork was not earthed and the flex grip was next to useless.When I challenged the seller pointing out that this product was illegal he said there had never been a problem, maybe every one of his "problems" was terminal ! (terminally dead)

 

Diana

 

 

Mikita ?? Is that the fake version of Makita, and generally sold by people touring the country in plain white vans? ;)
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Did the soldering iron have a BSI kite mark ? was it two core or three core ?

 

Abt. 20 years ago I was in the factory of the premier (IMHO) manufacturer of soldering irons, I noticed going down the lines were products for a major hand / power tool seller.

 

----------

 

Power tools , during the 1970's - I worked for a power tool manufacturer. The power tools that we had to use in the factory had to have a BSI kite mark (this was done for the "Industrial" power tools, many of which were 3 core for earth to the alloy casing). The domestic power tools were not required to kite-mark to prevent industrial use (industrial were a premium top $ price). The domestic power tools by abt. 1973 were no longer alloy cased , they were glass reinforced polyester (good stuff). The domestic were in fact "All Insulated" , higher spec. than double-insulated (needs only line/neutral) , most of this was because the armature was wound on a spindle with a thick coat of thermo-set plastic.

 

A friend worked on QC , products run to destruction (flames) , the domestic was a far safer product to the early industrials that were moving over to all insulated too.

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Mikita ?? Is that the fake version of Makita, and generally sold by people touring the country in plain white vans? ;)

:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Sounds about right.....made by the Mikado lot and usually sold by the praty bashers.

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