Great War truck Posted June 30, 2009 Author Share Posted June 30, 2009 There is as we have found a great deal of luck involved in the restoration of these things and that is something that you will find that i regularly refer to. Anyway, the aceyteline lamps on these British built WW1 trucks were powered by an aceyteline generator, a bit like the one sitting on the floor behind the scuttle of this Dennis: In fact, where photos exist of the gas generator on other British WW1 trucks, it has always been of the same pattern. These things are exceptionally rare and in fact i dont think that we had ever seen one in the flesh. Until: This one was spotted at an autojumble. It was made by a firm called Radnor and it is a very solid piece. After all these years of looking, we now have one. We just need three more for the trucks in the queue after this one. There probably wont be much activity on this thread for a while due to other matters taking a prioroity, but we will be working away in the background and will have some more progress for you soon. Tim (too) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 I'm sure it'll worth the wait Tim, these things can't be rushed, great thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Typing error there, I think, Tim -Should read "Radmore" and not "Radnor"! Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 Cripes! You are right. Radmore it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 You call it an acetylene generator rather than a simple storage tank. How does this thing work? Guessing it warms petrol or some other gas until it changes composition. Will you be looking to have it working given how dangerous acetylene is, or have you some other method of lighting for the truck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 You call it an acetylene generator rather than a simple storage tank. How does this thing work? QUOTE] Very simple apparatus. It drips water onto calcium carbide I think, which gives off Acetylene. Production pressure pushes it through tubes to the lamps. Note that it is constructed more as a (low) pressure vessel rather than a tank. Gordon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Seems brilliantly simply and relatively safe then at low pressure. Just a matter of being able to source the calcium carbide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 You can still buy the Carbide - see it for sale at Beaulieu Autojumble in tins! I understand that years ago when this system was in common use, you would often find little heaps of the spent carbide by the roadside or on a grass verge where perhaps a motor-cyclist had stopped to re-charge his generator as his light had gone out. Again, I only understand this as I have not used it, that these litle heaps had a distinctive odour! Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Carbide lamps asre still used by potholers and shooters to black sights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisg Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Carbide lamps asre still used by potholers Still got my carbide lamp somewhere. Also used to be used on Crow Scarers Might have some carbide some where if its any use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 Another system of supplying the acetylene gas to lights is through a cylinder which is charged up with the gas at a Retail Supplier. We picked up one of these in the USA on a previous visit over here - Prestolite - this was intended for our civilian Autocar but we have not yet fitted it. Will post a picture when I get home - unless Tim has already got one somewhere and can post it now. Looks like a small bomb with a gauge fitted which I assume indicates how much gas is in it. Don't know if these were used by the Military. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted July 21, 2009 Author Share Posted July 21, 2009 (edited) I thought that you might be interested in this: "What am i looking at here then" you are probably asking. Well, you should be able to make out the greaser in the bottom middle of the photo that sits on the end of the King Pins. They are rather large and of quite a distinctive shape. We had been unable to locate any. Anyway, these just arrived: Two correct pattern ones. It is wonderful to have such good friends, so thank you Mick. Tim (too) Edited July 21, 2009 by Great War truck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Looks like he's even give them a going over with the Brasso before sending them on to you! Is it just the photo or is the threaded section bent slightly on the left hand one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 You've got a good eye! Slightly bent! Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 Back from holiday and back to work! We now have to finish stripping down, cleaning and sand-blasting where appropriate, the parts of the differential. Our Sandblaster friend naturally prefers for any parts that are presented to him for blasting to be clear of grease and oil, so our usual practice is to wash any parts in paraffin so that they are clean of grease and oil. Small parts can also be "blown away" in the sandblasting process so if needs be, we string them together on a rope - rather like a necklace which then makes them easier to securely handle. However, in this case we have something else to consider - we do not want any of the critical machined surfaces to be "blasted" so that factor has to be taken into account. The top case of the "Diff" needs to be blasted as it is very corroded, but there are machined surfaces to protect - those where the Bearings go. If the top lubrication filler plate is bolted back in place, then that will seal that hole and stop sand getting in that way - and will also hold that plate firmly to the top case for the secure sand blasting of it. Similarly, if the two rear end castings are bolted into place, no sand will be able to get in that way and they will be held securely. Wooden Discs will have to be turned up, the same outside diameter of the bearings to fit into the holes where the bearings are pushed in to protect those machined surfaces. A start has been made today, - the main case is still to be washed out and the wooden discs made up. Here are some parts before paraffin washing. and after paraffin washing And after paraffin washing and a light wire brushing on the machined surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 Following the photos of the lamps and gas generator we promised to post pictures of the Prestolite Cylinder. These show exactly as it is now and in the same condition that we bought it. It is earmarked for the civilian version of the Autocar. It measures about 20 inches long by 6 inches in diameter. I dont think that military vehicles were fitted with these (or at least i have not seen any photos of them). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 Tony has been very busy working on the diff so i have lots of photos to post for you. I do hope we are not boring you with the minute detail of this project. The aim is to get the case ready for sandblasting. We have to get as much grease off as possible before it gets blasted, but the critical machined surfaces have to be protected from the sand blast. These four pictures show the case as dissembled - after a clean through with paraffin to get the grease off - but not wiped down. This shows the flange - with all the old studs removed - to which is bolted the worm shaft thrust bearing housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 A wooden plug made up to be gently forced into the hole to protect the machined surface when the sand blasting is done. This surface would be vulnerable from the sand blasting done inside the main part of the casing And with the plug inserted. the same plug photographed from the other side (the inside). The Worm Shaft Thrust Bearing Housing - bolted temporarily in place on the flange so that it can be sand blasted at the same time as the main casting. Eight new studs to be made up for final fixing when it is permanently assembled. These next two show the cap that screws into the Worm Shaft Thrust Bearing Housing - again to be sand blasted with the main casting - and also when it is screwed in position, it protects the inside and the thread from the blasting. And with the cap screwed down the wooden plug for the front worm shaft bearing housing. the main body with the two protective wooden plugs for the worm shaft bearings in situ To do next - the wooden plugs to protect the machined surfaces for the Worm Wheel Bearings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 The diff case prepared for prepared for sand blasting and delivered totoday. Should be done by Tuesday! These show the wooden plugs in place to protect the surfaces to take the outside diametrs of the Bearings This shows the outside of the case with the Inspection Plate to be fitted - and now fitted so that it can be sand blasted at the same time Then we just have to get the whole thing in the car and take it to the sand blaster. Thank goodness for the hydraulic lifting table! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 Now moving on to the worm wheel assembly which has created an element of head scratching. The bearings have to come off next but they are retained by a Collar which looks to be screwed on to the shaft with a fine thread - presumably so that the Thrust Bearings can be adjusted up tight. This collar then appears to be locked in place by three grub screws situated at north, east and west points of the compass - but no fourth one at south. On each of the two collars, only one grub screw is visible - the other two grub screw holes appear to be empty but there would also appear to be the remains of perhaps what could be old screws deep in their threaded holes as it is impossible to push a small screwdriver down into the full depth.. The hole assembly is rusted up but I have released the two grub screws after applying some Plus Gas and hitting them with an impact screw driver. On top of each Thrust Bearing is what may be a spacer ring - these have slipped off over the collars. We were reluctant to apply heat to the collars because of the proximity if the bearings. As the Grub Screws taken out are hardened it presented us with the concern of trying to drill out the remains of the others. These 3 photos show the other Bearing with the Spacer Ring and locking Grub Screw removed. Then with Steves input it became obvious that the two other holes in the Locking Collar were not for other locking screws but put there for a "C" Spanner! A useful lesson learned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willyslancs Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 good pics mate , no your not boring us . them hydraulic tables are good arent they?...... keep pics coming . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Ater some further thought, the light has dawned! The second and third holes in the Locking Ring are for a "C" Spaner so that the ring can be loosened or tightened. Not for more Grub Screws. You will see that the holes are quite damaged as if someone has hit them with a punch at some stage to move the ring that way! Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 Another satisfying day where everything has gone according to plan. Could not find a "C" Spanner suitable to undo the Locking Ring - so tried just one tap with a Hammer on a punch - and it turned! I guess the benefit of soaking it in Plus Gas. The gentle application of a big Stilson got it moving very easily and then it could be undone and removed with fingers. The Bearings came off easily. the "naked" shaft! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 Here we have the Bearings and rings as they have come off and prior to washing them in a Paraffin Bath. These show one of the two big bearings after washing - 7" in diameter, 3" Bore and 1 9/16" thick. These two bearings will have to be replaced - one is solid and the other is very "rumbley". All the years on the beach has got to them - too much sand and salt air.. And here we have the complete kit for one side after washing - the Thrust Bearings do not look too bad at all and maybe used again after some further cleaning. Final decision to be made there. There is some work to do with wire and/or plastic bristle brushes to further clean up all these bits. And here is the next job - to wash down the Worm wheel to get the sand and grease off it before taking that assembly to pieces. It all seems to be going very well so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 I love keeping up to date with this thread, jolly interesting. Idea: My cousin runs a company who chemically clean ferrous parts in the West Midlands. Since I've had access to that I have never sand or shot blast anything again! I send down a stripped engine (all the parts) and it comes back on a pallet like the day it left the machine shop. They remove paint and hydrocarbons in a strong alkaline tank then corrosion in a heated acidic tank, doesn't affect machined surfaces to any great extent. He has steered the company towards dipping entire chassis and bodies, but it is just as useful on mechanical parts. http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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