Charlie Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Hi guys and gals, Just about to purchase a blaster for two 432's. What blast media do people recommend? I'm tempted to go bicarb but as i've never seen it in action worried it won't be 'man' enough... Best. C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Hi guys and gals, Just about to purchase a blaster for two 432's. What blast media do people recommend? I'm tempted to go bicarb but as i've never seen it in action worried it won't be 'man' enough... Best. C. dry soft sand local builders merchants works a treat if you have a proper blaster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbrook Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 (edited) Soda is very expensive and will not touch your 432s. Either use Iron Silicate or Calcium Silicate or alternatively try recycled glass. Both are available in bulk (and it is much cheaper by the ton). We like the former as it created less dust, but the glass is very good for delicate work. Unless your work is really really rusty the medium grade of either is ideal. Try googling scangrit With all due respect to the previous poster I think blasting with sand is pretty dangerous - and it is in fact banned. Edited November 9, 2014 by paulbrook Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean N Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 (edited) Charlie, it'd be worth trying soda. My experience of it (contrary to Paul's!) is that it lifts paint well; it's non-damaging to the metal surface; it's non-damaging to components; it's non-toxic and easy to dispose of; and it leaves a residue which prevents flash rusting for a week or two. Disdvantages are that it won't lift rust and you have to rinse off before painting. All of this does depend somewhat on what blasting equipment and compressor / airflow you have. Edited November 9, 2014 by Sean N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Soda is very expensive and will not touch your 432s. Either use Iron Silicate or Calcium Silicate or alternatively try recycled glass. Both are available in bulk (and it is much cheaper by the ton). We like the former as it created less dust, but the glass is very good for delicate work. Unless your work is really really rusty the medium grade of either is ideal. Try googling scangrit With all due respect to the previous poster I think blasting with sand is pretty dangerous - and it is in fact banned. sorry I retract my advice it is the first I have heard that it is illegal to sand blast with sand and will get on to our suppliers first thing tomorrow for advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Comber Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Cosrec, it is kiln dried sand that is the problem as this had a silica content, it's the silica that is harmful on the lungs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 (edited) to Charlie are we talking blaster supplied by hydrovane type compressor or micky mouse hand held thing from machine mart Edited November 9, 2014 by cosrec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Suslowicz Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Cosrec, it is kiln dried sand that is the problem as this had a silica content, it's the silica that is harmful on the lungs. All sand is silica (Silicon Dioxide, SiO2), and it's the fine particles that give you silicosis if they get into your lungs in any great quantity. Hence the ban on using it. Commercial abrasives are more expensive but much safer. (Aluminium oxide, silicon carbide, steel shot, etc.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 Thanks for the advice. A large 3 Phase screw compressor Cosrec so it will be as big a blaster as i can afford. Bicarb is a no go if it does not remove rust so that makes things alot easier. Will give scangrit a call tomorrow, thanks Paul. Anyone recommend a supplier of pots and kit etc? C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean N Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 (edited) All sand is silica (Silicon Dioxide, SiO2), and it's the fine particles that give you silicosis What Chris said. http://www.hse.gov.uk/press%5C2008/coinw01708.htm, http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/guidance/cn7.pdf Edited November 10, 2014 by Sean N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hickjc Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 I use Wolverhampton abrasives which are part of Hodge Clemco, they have several types of media, I use the SC for most things, this is like sand, and then jblast supa for heavily rusted parts, not good on tin work as it is too coarse. If you doing the whole vehicle, you need a proper pot, breathing apparatus and a road compressor. I would recommend hiring one if you don’t, anything smaller and you will be there forever! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 It is all about exposure time.. http://www.gulflink.osd.mil/particulate_final/particulate_final_s06.htm http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?45262-Grit-Blast-cabinet&p=416057#post416057 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Why a road compressor Hickjc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attleej Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 During the summer I shot blasted my Antar chassis and no two parts of it are currently bolted together! I used Scangrit grade 2 superfine copper slag. I used about 3 tons for the Antar chassis and a Scammell Contractor ballast box and had a bit left. The base price is £170.50 per ton. With the VAT the 3T came to £613 delivered to Bordon. With a decent seized pot you need a 250 cfm compressor ie a four tool type. I hired it. Check the weather forecast for humidity. If it is too high you can get problems with the flow of abrasive due to it clogging up. The paint and rust will just fly off. The surface is then ideal for painting. You need to prime as soon as possible after blasting as the surface starts to go off immediately. This grade was OK for doing tin work provided I was sensible. Even with tin work the finish is not too rough, certainly for a mil vehicle. If the tin work is rotten you will end up with a lace curtain. The alternative is to polish it with a sanding disc or wire brush and pretend that it is not there! I have no experience of using the other media mentioned in the string. You should be able to blast all the outside of a 432 in a day. The Infra Red Reflecting (IRR) paint may have some health hazards. The blaster will be OK in his air fed hood (you must use the proper hood). Do not allow others to inhale the paint dust as it may have unhealthy components. Sweep and shovel up as much as possible. Pay attention to removing every bit of abrasive after blasting or will come back to haunt you! Personally I would love to strip an AFV down to a bare hull and then blast it! Wherever you have oils seals wrap string around them so that the grit does not get in. Duct tape, carpet tape, black nasty or whatever you call it is good for protecting machined surfaces. Where you have exposed male threads it is not a problem blasting them. However, make sure that you mask all exposed threads after blasting as the paint will stick so well it will hard to remove even with a die. If you have suitable facilities, in my opinion blasting is the ideal way of preparing a vehicle. I hope that this is helpful. John Attlee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean N Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 It is all about exposure time.. Possibly, but since it's going to be very difficult to determine or measure exposure for the average user and it's banned anyway it's probably academic. During the summer I shot blasted my Antar chassis and no two parts of it are currently bolted together! John, was that an outcome of the blasting?!! :shocked: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 BANNED - only where COSHH Regs. are applicable - the stand was made in 1950 when 40 hour per week + was standard , obviously a risk present. Infrequent DIY use esp. out of shed , taking normal precautions , correct breather cartridge / breathing air or Airflow helmet - no more dangerous than exhaust fumes walking down a city street. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scammell4199 Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 JBlast Supa, I think is the way to go, have used it several times with very good results. Don't bother with Soda for blasting armour - too gentle, plus you need a special pot. I use a large contractor style Hodge Clemco pot with a 2 tool compressor from Speedy, with good results. Paint as soon as possible, definitely same day. Don't use any iron based abrasives, because any you don't get out before painting will shake its way out onto your freshly painted surface when you start using the vehicle and rust. Definitely use the proper air fed hood and put some ear plugs in too! You should easily be able to blast and paint a 432 in a day. Post some pics and write up on how you get on so others can learn from it. That's my two cents. Good luck, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 So at a minimum we are looking at something like http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CENTURYWISE-CW-20L-ONE-BAG-BLAST-POT-PACKAGE-shot-sand-grit-kit-blaster-/350913420652?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item51b411dd6c#ht_2599wt_1011 With a two tool compressor. Thats within budgetish. Will hopefully post the whole project if i can remember to take photos as i go. I'm awful with a camera, even on holidays i'll take one and never take a photo lol. Just getting all the right man tools together before I start like cranes etc..... Thanks for everyones help so far, it has been REALLY useful x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scammell4199 Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Yeah looks good. They look like rubber gloves, I use welding gauntlets, better for when you need to get in close. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hickjc Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Charlie - guys before have answered that really, you won't get enough air out of a electric compressor. Get the biggest pot you can afford, one bag does not last long and taking the gear on and off to re fill the pot gets annoying, mine is a 3 bag pot. Or have someone with you to refill the pot as you go. You should have someone with you just in case anyway! regards Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbrook Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 (edited) We use a hired-in 120Cu Ft/Minute (minimum) towed compressor for a Hodge Clemco set-up. You need plenty of air especially as you should be using an air-fed mask (and it will use 10-15 Cu Ft/Min). Oh and Charlie if you had been a day or two quicker you could have had a lovely little 2 bag set up all ready to go for £750 - sadly it was palleted up and dispatched to a new owner in Oxfordshire yesterday! Whilst really effective even these small pots have their limitations. With the wick turned up Deb (my blast-ace) needed to refill the pot every ten minutes or so, great for small items such as mudguards but a pain when she is doing larger things as she had to stop, get the mask off, refill the pot then work out where she had just left off. We have now purchased a pot that will take nearly half a ton. For the record be prepared to haggle for the blast medium - I pay a lot less than John did for his. Also as I said before recycled glass is very good indeed, it produces a bit more dust but is less messy than the other alternatives. It is also brilliant for more delicate items. Edited November 11, 2014 by paulbrook Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david56 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 We use a 250cfm with Glass this comes as coarse and fine. For super delicate apart from soda there is crushed walnut Husks. We pay £200.00/ pallet which is 40 bags. Silica sand is banned if it gets in the lungs it causes cancer. David. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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