fadedsun Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 I have a BRDM2 I will be taking possession of in under a month. What do i need to have to work on it? It is a manual transmission with a clutch and 4 gears, correct? What kind of oils does it need? Hydraulic fluid? What kind of tools are required to work on it..(Any special types? What are the most common bolt sizes?) Anything is appreciated. I'm really excited about it's arrival! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 well for a start google brdm 2 manuals first hit i got was for a cd of manuals user handbook for a tenner. try also russian military trucks website Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinkypete618 Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Most Russian stuff is metric, easy for tools and new bolts etc, I get moaned at a lot for fitting capheads tho, in stead of damaged flat heads back in. Its basic stuff really, well on most trucks, never worked on a brdm, cant image its much different tho. Probably the same problems tyres and rubber seals getting old and cracked. Brakes are a main point to check. Say hi on Russian military trucks, lots of owners there of Soviet vehicles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulob1 Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 it is metric fine for the nuts and bolts, these are not so common here in the UK...so beware of this... its an easy engine to work on there is enough space in the engine bay to get at things its just that there isnt really enough space for you as well...so somethings can be awkward... oils are all typical russian, and mostly mineral oils are used, however the brakes I have never been able to find which is the right flid...they used to use dot 2 in the early days but you cant get that any more so I am at a loss as to what to use... I am hopefully getting mine in a few weeks too will get a few spares and some nuts and bolts for mine as a precaution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRDM Driver Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 I have a BRDM2 I will be taking possession of in under a month. What do i need to have to work on it? It is a manual transmission with a clutch and 4 gears, correct? What kind of oils does it need? Hydraulic fluid? What kind of tools are required to work on it..(Any special types? What are the most common bolt sizes?) Anything is appreciated. I'm really excited about it's arrival! Welcome to the club! Which model is it? I have a couple of manuals in english and you can download one on the russian trucks site. Don't forget, not brake fluid, use hydraulic fluid! Make sure your belts are good. Your compressor not only keeps the tires up, it makes the brakes work! When driving on the road, don't coast on corners with the clutch down. you will lose hydraulic power and therefore all steering! Keep in gear at all times and 'drive' around corners and roundabouts etc. 1st and 2nd gears have no synchro so double de-clutch. you might find you need to come to a complete stop if you can't go round a corner or junction in third. The fuel tank selector levers are confusing as they are marked left and right, which depends on which way you are looking! I have translations for all the internal labels if you need them. Check your fuel pump. They leak like... Russian fuel pumps.... It's worth hand priming before starting as the fuel has a way to go before getting into the carb and if there are any air leaks the fuel system will be dry if it hasn't been run for a while. I have found that the batteries need to be tip top to start on the button. If you are any taller than 4 foot six, you might find that you cannot get your foot onto the brake pedal without moving the gearstick out of the way so you can get your knee out from under the steering wheel! I extended the steering column on mine which made life a lot easier! Other than that, enjoy it! Good luck with getting spares too! You might need it. Engine stuff is ok but I have found it impossible to get more unusual bits. If you intend to go swimming you'd be advised to find somewhere you can go in to about a metre deep and stop while all the wheels are still on the ground and wait a while to see if there are any leaks. check your bilge pump works first and don't pull the red lever the wrong way when afloat: you will sink! Where about's are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fadedsun Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 Mine is a turreted Iraqi model. I'm located in Texas, USA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fadedsun Posted November 20, 2012 Author Share Posted November 20, 2012 Anyone care to shoot a message to the mods at the Russiamilitarytrucks.com forums and ask them to activate member beefcake? Been waiting..my account seems to be de-activated... Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinkypete618 Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 ^ Done m8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoltan Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Anyone care to shoot a message to the mods at the Russiamilitarytrucks.com forums and ask them to activate member beefcake? Been waiting..my account seems to be de-activated... Thanks! Just seen your post on RMT, if you could re-register it should go through OK this time. We've been hit with a large number of spammers in the last week so it has kept us busy dealing with that. I can only think your application got mixed up in all that. Sorry for that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fadedsun Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 Fatal error: Call to undefined method user::confirm_gc() in /home/rmt/public_html/phpBB3/includes/ucp/ucp_register.php on line 480 I get this error when trying to register. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texas pete Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Indeed welcome to the club! It's great to see other BRDM owners out there Everything BRDMdriver has said is quite true, the hydrualic deficiencies with the clutch down or out of gear are quite annoying. Speaking to a freind of a freind who use to drive BRDMs back in the Polish army; mentioned that the reason this is done is to disable the front steering when the vehicle is swimming, otherwise under certain conditions could cause the vehicle to capsize. However, there are ways around it, For example if trying to manouver in a tight spot - put the transfer case into neutral (moving the Hi/Lo range lever into the middle position), select first gear and release the clutch, you won't go any where but you will get power steering when stantionary. For oils and what to use, check out the manual in russian truck forum, its got a section on wesstern alternative oils in the back. But we've found that the oils it recommends are really more for winter use and therefore you may want to use slightly thicker oils. I've certainly found that in my BRDM as the transfer case overheats, it has the correct level of oil in it, but it's just too thin. Anyway, look forward to hearing from you when she arrives! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fadedsun Posted December 7, 2012 Author Share Posted December 7, 2012 Delivery should be in approximately 6 days. Gave up on trying to find a secure storage and opted for a fenced in RV and boat storage center. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fadedsun Posted December 14, 2012 Author Share Posted December 14, 2012 Captured by the SAS from the Iraqis. Has all the radios and compasses inside. Turret is function and everything, even the sight, is inside. Hurricane sandy caused damage I need to fix (water flooded the inside). Starts but doesn't run due to brakes and clutch being out. What do you use to push a 16000 pound armored vehicle that doesn't run?..... ...another vehicle that's just as big. Using a deuce and a half and chains and time we removed it off the trailer and pushed it into the boat slip. After stepping inside I realized the enormity of my goals to get this as close to restored as possible. Here's what I'm looking at: Short term: Strip the interior, remove all accessories and panels Change oil, hydro Replace all filters Mid-term 2x new driver/commander seats 2x crewman seats 2x sets of side/rear view mirrors weld latches on hatches to allow a lock to be used 2x sets of turn signals Long term Remove engine, replace/adjust clutch assembly Sandblast engine compartment, repaint Swap engine for cummins 4bt/allison transmission that's all I can think of now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 Interesting to see the Withams sticker and lot number on the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FW200 Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 Looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauren Child Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 Long termRemove engine, replace/adjust clutch assembly Sandblast engine compartment, repaint Swap engine for cummins 4bt/allison transmission that's all I can think of now! The engine bay on these is really awkward. If you are planning on doing anything in there, I'd recommend you start with that. Be careful, I seem to remember there are some asbestos components with the exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fadedsun Posted December 14, 2012 Author Share Posted December 14, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin33ba07 Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 well done a lot of work ahead ,guaranteed to keep you oout of the pub for a while ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fadedsun Posted December 17, 2012 Author Share Posted December 17, 2012 well done a lot of work ahead ,guaranteed to keep you oout of the pub for a while ! Yep! I need a truck with a crane to lift the engine out and the turret. There's so much work to do and I haven't started yet and can't start for a while. Kinda frustrating but that's how it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fadedsun Posted December 19, 2012 Author Share Posted December 19, 2012 Spending the day tomorrow (well, a few hours) stripping out parts from the interior, tagging/bagging them, and figuring out how I'm going to get the engine out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauren Child Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 Spending the day tomorrow (well, a few hours) stripping out parts from the interior, tagging/bagging them, and figuring out how I'm going to get the engine out. A lot of soviet vehicles of this period seem to be designed almost as disposable items. If something major went wrong, I get the feeling the crew would have just climbed into a new one rather than fix the old one. The designs don't seem to account for anything more than basic repair access and maintenance. If I'm remembering this one correctly (I was only involved in the tail end of a resto) the top of the vehicle is a welded construction. You need to remove the bulkhead (bolts on top) and the turret, and bring the engine forward and up. Now that I come to think of it, I seem to remember the bulkheads are part welded and part bolted so it would be a real pain in the rear to remove, but I may be getting mixed up with something else. It's probably easier to work on the engine in-situ. That's why I'd recommend you look at the engine bay first, as having to traipse through the fighting compartment means that you're likely to have to re-do that afterwards. On the plus side, it's not as bad as some of the other vehicles for access Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handler 69 Posted December 20, 2012 Share Posted December 20, 2012 I had to pull my OT 64 SKOT off the low loader using my 4x4 and a chain Hope my BRDM has a big light like yours does! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Innes Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 What has been done here to remove the area above the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauren Child Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 I don't know - I didn't think you could remove it - maybe I'm wrong or it's a different model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRDM Driver Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 That panel is bolted down. Never removed it myself, but it is bolted down and sealed with gunk. I would imagine it's quite a lift to get up, but no problem for a gantry etc. There is no other way to get the engine in or out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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