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Jack Innes

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    Brooklin, Ontario, Canada
  1. Hello Clive, I would guess we both thought of this about the same time. I think I have a 24 volt horn relay that would do the job well. Jack
  2. Thank you Clive. That explains things very well. The starter has an external solenoid so a jumper from the starter side of the solenoid would give full voltage to the coil while starting. Is that sound thinking? Jack
  3. Hello, I have a question regarding some modifications to an electrical system. I have a Chrysler built truck with a 318 cid V8 engine & complete 24 volt electrical system. The ignition system ( distributor, coil, wires & spark plugs) has been replaced with civilian parts running on 12 volts. I can live with this nicely, particularly since it takes quite an effort to see the engine under the floor & parts are easy to find. Can I run a 24 volt coil with the existing condenser & point set up? I have what looks like a new coil from an M135 distributor. The object is to eliminate the separate switch for the 12 volt ignition. If not is there an other or better way to run the civilian parts on 24 volts? Thank you, Jack
  4. Can anyone give some information on a Randolph Laboratories model FF2 CO2 fire extinguisher? I am interested in the period they were used & on what vehicles. I just acquired one complete with the mounting bracket.
  5. Thank you all for the informative replies. As always this is a wonderful resource. I have gone over the bicycle carefully & am going to buy it. The front tyre is a Dunlop War Grade Tyre, cracked but there. The rear tyre is a replacement, equally cracked with a tread pattern that almost matches the front. Are War Grade 26 X 1 3/8" tyres available, or might I find an old tyre to match the front one? I will never ride this bicycle since it is too original (& the young fellows who it was designed to carry weighed far less than I do!) Would the tool pouch be marked BSA or were there other suppliers? Was there a standard light used on the front bracket or were they from different suppliers? It is a single tube type with ser. no. R 51093. Can anyone date the bicycle from that? Jack
  6. I have the opportunity to buy a WW II BSA folding bicycle. The bicycle is very complete & untouched. Most of the decals are present & readable. The tires & seat are dried out but original & intact. The original paint is 95% intact. The air pump is there. It is missing the tool pouch. What should I pay for this?
  7. Andy, Thank you for the address, I was not aware of the group. I have made application to join. My question here regards a Ferret but I think would apply to any non-USA built armored vehicle.
  8. Can anyone explain what permits, etc. would be necessary to send a Ferret from Canada to a new owner in the USA? The Ferret now has a valid Canadian title & no gun. Thank you for any information.
  9. Pictures of the truck as it is now. It was restored many years ago & no "before" pictures can be found. Could it have been a military truck as it is thought to be? Often the history of a vehicle evolves with the telling over the years.
  10. Actually it has no heads at all. The cylinders & heads are all one piece bolted to the crank case. Notice the large plugs on the top of the engine. These are to access the valves. As mentioned before it was common practice at that time to cast cylinder "jugs" in pairs or even single cylinders.
  11. Hello, Does anyone have any information on trucks built by McLaughlin (GM) in Oshawa, Ontariofor the WWI war effort? The one in question is likely a covered express body built on a car chassis. The McLaughlin trucks had a flat head engine while this one is overhead as were the McLaughlin & Buick cars. I am expecting pictures soon. Thank you for any input, Jack
  12. Your plug looks to be "sooted up" from running rich for short intervals. The choke is intended to make the mixture ritch thus the soot. You are doing your engine a severe disservice by running it for short intervals in the winter. Look at the exhaust pipe of a cold engine running & you will often see water running out the pipe. If you must start the engine it is wise to run it up to full temperature to evaporate as much of the water created by condensation on the cold internal parts. Otherwise the water just stays in the combustion chambers & can cause great corrosive damage. ( It is illegal to start a piston engined aircraft in storage without running it up to full operating temperature. Failure to do so can result in a major engine overhaul demanded by the MOT. ) Much more advantage in preserving an engine in storage can be accomplished by disconnecting the coil wire & turning the engine with the starter once in a while. This will distribute oil where it is needed but will not cause the condensation previously described. In the spring remember to re-connect the coil wire --- I will not publicly admit to why I suggest that!
  13. The repaircraft conversion kit looks wonderful. Has anyone an idea on the cost? I fear a seated position will be in order if a figure is posted!! If this was possible to consider it looks like the bulkhead between the driver & the engine could be reworked to allow a little more room in the driving compartment - a welcome option for those of us who are no longer in fighting trim.
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