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Anti freeze for my bedford mw


MartinN

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hi Martin,

If this is what you mean:

http://groceries.asda.com/asda-estore/catalog/sectionpagecontainer.jsp?aisleid=1215109789406&skuId=81495331&startValue=&departmentid=1214921923802&referrer=cookiesDetecting

 

then it looks to be ready mixed, clue is in the word "coolant". A bit expensive at £5 for 2 litres, seeing as how much you need.

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I'm not sure the colour is as consistent as it should be, so to be sure the old-type stuff is Ethylene Glycol, with no OAT. Ethylene Glycol is normally blue, and on the back of the bottle I've got here it's also labelled "Ethanediol" as an alternative name.

 

This is the stuff that's pretty toxic and smells yummy to animals, so be careful and don't spill it or leave it out.

 

It's frequently mixed with Di-Hydrogen Monoxide.

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What about the waterless coolant, its expensive but sounds like good stuff. Anyone got any experience?

 

I've been pondering that for the WOT, given that it's not likely to boil and squirt out, and should be more efficient at cooling (the WOT runs quite hot). From what I hear it's damn expensive though.

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I've been pondering that for the WOT, given that it's not likely to boil and squirt out, and should be more efficient at cooling (the WOT runs quite hot). From what I hear it's damn expensive though.

 

These antifreeze mixtures still contain water and are no different to you mixing it yourself, except it is de-ionised water, which eliminates the chalk for those in hard water area. Mostly useful for topping up. I cannot see that it is "unlikely to boil and squirt out" as you say. Biggest mistake is often filling the rad to high, not leaving any expansion room then thinking there is a problem because coolant is coming out of the overflow. Normally when this happens it finds its own level and no problems.

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I think the idea behind this one is that there is no water in it. The boiling point is much higher, so less likely to boil. See here - http://www.evanscoolant.co.uk/acatalog/Learn-More.html

 

I was refering to the generally available mixed coolants like Bluecol ( a well and trusted product). I would think before using the coolant you are refering to, the engine and radiator wants to be purged right out and that may not be possible with out partial dismantling. you should see some of the old engines I get in to overhaul, heavy crud laying the jacket, even with a bare block and steam / hot water cleaners it takes some shifting, then think of the furred up rad core. all this serves to reduce the coolant capacity and not allow it to get to where its needed.

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De-ionised water can have its own problems. It wants to get the ions from somewhere, and it does from all that lovley metal about. Around London, and Richard may well have the same problem, the water is hard enough to eat! And of course, water softners use salt! Hence my suggestion of the rain water or dehumdifier water.

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I've been pondering that for the WOT, given that it's not likely to boil and squirt out, and should be more efficient at cooling (the WOT runs quite hot). From what I hear it's damn expensive though.

 

I know about a Ford V8 getting hot!!! Both of my vehicles push 2 pints out of the over-flow after I top them up, and then they are OK. Just off to the autofactors to get Blue antifreeze for my vehicles for the winter. Anyone heard any rumours on how severe our winter is going to be this year?

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