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Bedford QLR 32YY16


Ian L

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Ian,

 

I replied to your message last week, regarding gearbox parts, not had a reply yet. If you are interested, I may just be able to help you here. Your gear cluster is the layshaft one by looks of it. Let me know if you still need the parts.

 

Richard

 

Hi Richard sorry I havn't received any PMs from you, also I am receiving spam emails from your email address so you may of been hacked ?

And yes I do require a gearbox if you can help please, cheers Ian

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Hi Richard sorry I havn't received any PMs from you, also I am receiving spam emails from your email address so you may of been hacked ?

And yes I do require a gearbox if you can help please, cheers Ian

 

Hi Ian,

You sent me an email via HMVF, to which I replied to. Sorry about the spams, that should have been sorted out by now, not heard from anyone else if it is still happening, it came from the address of someone who was on the forum at one time.

 

I may be able to help you out with gearbox parts, please send me a private message and i will respond on a different email address.

 

Richard

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  • 3 weeks later...
Ian. I have got to say that looks top class work. Now who was the daft person who signed of the design in the first place.

 

Hi Tim the first bit was the easy bit, wait till you see the outside tinwork and the roof !!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Now next little job, I can either make a tool and spend hours beating these 2 panels out or I might just know somebody that could help !!!!!!!!

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your metalwork is of an incredible quality mate ..fair play ..can't wait to see your old truck when she's all done :-D

 

Hi Bob cheers mate, hope to have her finished for Beltring 2013 along with the 20cwt Bowser that i'm also restoring.

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Since you have the engine out and gearbox off anyway.

 

I'm sure I had to replace a core plug on one of these engines that was right on the back of the block, hidden by the top of the bell housing. To do it I had to pull the gearbox and bell housing while it was in the truck and it was a really tedious job for about five minutes work.

 

Am I right in thinking there is a core plug there, or is it old age and it was the one on the back of the head? It was definitely a large plug, 1.5 or 2" or so, and on the back face of the engine.

 

I vaguely remember that the original plug must have been leaking before, as the whole recess was filled up with solder.

 

Gordon

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Since you have the engine out and gearbox off anyway.

 

I'm sure I had to replace a core plug on one of these engines that was right on the back of the block, hidden by the top of the bell housing. To do it I had to pull the gearbox and bell housing while it was in the truck and it was a really tedious job for about five minutes work.

 

Am I right in thinking there is a core plug there, or is it old age and it was the one on the back of the head? It was definitely a large plug, 1.5 or 2" or so, and on the back face of the engine.

 

I vaguely remember that the original plug must have been leaking before, as the whole recess was filled up with solder.

 

Gordon

Hi Gordon your dead right about that core plug hidden in the bell housing and infact thats the only reason why I took the engine out and brought it back to my workshop otherwise it would of been left at the airfield whiIe I finished off the chassis/body.

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Hi Tim the first bit was the easy bit, wait till you see the outside tinwork and the roof !!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Now next little job, I can either make a tool and spend hours beating these 2 panels out or I might just know somebody that could help !!!!!!!!

 

Hello Ian , the rusty bits on your pictures must be the panels that go over the gearbox.

Don't panic as I need to make these also for my QL.

 

Guy

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Hello Ian , the rusty bits on your pictures must be the panels that go over the gearbox.

Don't panic as I need to make these also for my QL.

 

Guy

 

Hi Guy I was going to make a 'die' and beat them out by hand, how do you intend to make these tricky little panels ?

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I am thinking to bend two sides of a flat piece of plate and the two other sides of the plate I will tray to weld a steeped piece of plate on to it.

 

Just will need to shape the rounds a bit.

 

Will have a look tomorrow to start on thees parts and post some pictures.

 

Guy

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Hi Gordon your dead right about that core plug hidden in the bell housing and infact thats the only reason why I took the engine out and brought it back to my workshop otherwise it would of been left at the airfield whiIe I finished off the chassis/body.

 

Good, not only did you know about it, but old age has not yet gone for me. :D Ever seen it filled with solder? I suspect it's such a pig to get to that there it must have been common practice.

 

G

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  • 2 months later...
Just caught up with this thread Ian, very nice work, great attention to detail.

 

Thanks Rick, it came to a bit of a fullstop over the summer due to weather, holidays, other projects & a faulty MIG welder but I have just purchased a new TIG welder so full steam ahead soon with the cab once I've finished the engine rebuild. :D

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  • 3 months later...

Although the engine ran fine even after 30+years of standing with no smoke or water leaks etc, I decided to take it out to clean externaly & remove the cylinger head to check just incase, good job I did.

The core plugs looked very good from the outside but they were as thin as tinfoil so all were replaced including the one behind the bellhousing/flywheel.

Several piston rings were broken including 1 oil control ring so bores were honed and new rings fitted.

Main bearing shells looked like new but the bigend shell needed replacing too.

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I think the cylinder head must of been replaced since leaving service in 1967 as it looked almost new in its red oxide primer rather than the blue/green colour of the engine block but looks can be very deceptive.

Firstly a large chunk of exhaust manifold was missing and they must of carried on running the engine for quite a long time afterwards which burnt a large section of the head away around the exhaust ports, almost 2mm had to be skimmed off the head to get it flat again.

#3 and #4 inlet valves had to be replaced along with all the exhaust valves, strange thing was that the exhaust valves that I removed were 50 degree but the workshop manual states 30 degree & they were the only ones I could find so I had the seats recut to 30 degree.

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