richard sweeney Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 The seal on the shaft isn't the main issue. Is suggests to me it is getting flooded by failure of the accelerator pump diaphragms. They have either gone brittle & cracked or are porous. This would explain the high revs & high fuel consumption. Take off the side panel cover but first detach the choke lever arm. Then the peripheral screws if the diaphragms are shot there will be fuel in this chamber. To inspect the diaphragms remove the 4 screws over each pump. ok this would make sense and explain a few things. However i had my dad feeding the petrol in at first through the side of the carb into where the two ( return ? ) fuel lines come out without realising. at this stage lots of fuel was being spuirted in - so could this leak just be the excess fuel put in ? i guess if the diaphragms have become porous/split ill need a rebuild kit. thanks for reply ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Richard oh I thought you were feeding fuel via a tube going into the carb where the banjo connector is. This does have gauze filter & that does sometimes collect bits. Entry of fuel this way is regulated by the needle valve operated by the floats. There is no fuel return line like in a diesel engine. The two narrow metal pipes feeding the top of the carb are breathers to allow fumes from the crank case to combusted. If its being tipped in the top via these pipes it will flood & as the fuel hits the butterfly valve it will seep along the spindle & out through seals either end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 (edited) Richard oh I thought you were feeding fuel via a tube going into the carb where the banjo connector is. This does have gauze filter & that does sometimes collect bits. Entry of fuel this way is regulated by the needle valve operated by the floats. There is no fuel return line like in a diesel engine. The two narrow metal pipes feeding the top of the carb are breathers to allow fumes from the crank case to combusted. If its being tipped in the top via these pipes it will flood & as the fuel hits the butterfly valve it will seep along the spindle & out through seals either end. I have been feeding it in where the banjo bolt is , it was only the first time we tried starting the engine that it had been fed in through the breather pipe entry's but hasnt been done since. I just wondered it its accumulated petrol from the first time we tried thats leaking It was leaking today when using a tube where the banjo connector goes into. Edited August 28, 2011 by richard sweeney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Ok Richard fair enough. In any case it is well worth checking the diaphragms as they are prone to failure with modern fuel I had some last for years but on one occasion some only lasted a season. I would run the engine briefly, so that if there is a failed diaphragm it will be made obvious as behind the cover it should be dry. When you take the diaphragms out there will of course be fuel coming out. Check that the short centre pin of the diaphragm holder is free to move in the casting. It is very easy for this to corrode up with non use & not move freely or be seized in place. If it is not free fine abrasive cloth needed on the pin & wash away dust. If still sticky use a suitable width drill held in the hand to ream out the corrosion & blow/wash away debris. Do not at this stage remove the central choke mechanism. If you ever do take lots of pictures to aid re-assembly as it is ambiguous in positioning the brass discs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 carb removed and had a look at the diaphragms. the right one is slightly leaking and stuck depressed. Just had a quote from richard banister for a carb service kit - £45 without economy pump - £60 with. Also for fuel pump service kit it is £40. reasonable ? should i strip carb first or wait for the kit to come, i was thinking wait ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 also make sure u have the 2 different banjo bolt washers if u cant get them heat them up and let cool slowly to soften them for reuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Richard, it isn't cheap but it is reasonable because you have no other choice. But you will have newly manufactured items particularly important where rubber is concerned. A few years ago I put in a bulk order to a carb re-manufacturing company who I suspect is the supplier of these components. It worked out a lot cheaper of course but it required the purchase of a very significant quantity. Wait until you have all the bits. Take lots of photos as you dismantle it label where the various jets & valves go most have unique fitting but there are one or two ambiguities of fit esp the choke mechanism. Do this in a tray so bits can't roll onto the floor especially as there are two 3/16" glass balls. Replace the economy diaphragms whilst you are at it. The last carb I rebuilt I found that the wrong spring had been fitter, it was too long & prevented the diaphragm from moving. This was from a professionally rebuilt carb from a Pig from NI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 i will put some money aside for this as it needs to be done. I will make sure i take lots of photos, cant afford to mess it up ! time isnt a problem but out of interest how long does it take to do when you have the parts ? and how difficult is it - i have done some more advanced jobs like, timing chains on a v6 with OHC , headgasket changes etc but need to have an idea of whether im capable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Takes me about 3 days to do one but that is just dawdling, sometimes removing cleaner/nicer bits from old carbs. No doubt one could do one in half a day. But try to look at it as a training programme. Looking in the EMER at cross-sectional diagrams of little arrows of fuel & then vapour flowing in a 2-dimensional diagram of a 3-dimensional situation is not easy to comprehend. Have a diagram of the parts diagram, the cross sectional view & the technical description of its construction & operation is important to get the best appreciation from the rebuilt. I find the 'brass' wire brushes on those little hobby drill kits a nice way of cleaning some items without being as scratchy as normal steel brushes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 that looks fantastic , are those the proper colours the carb should be in or all light green? also anyone know what these fittings are for on my humbers roof found the piece of paper stored in the engine bay and the history of my humber - found by Chris who gave the humber to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Right, been doing work on the pig and going well. Got a solex carb kit from Banisters the other day( £60 ) and have made a start on that - all jets cleaned and one accelerator pump replaced so nearly there just trying to remove end of the other accelerator pump that has snapped off flush inside its hole ! front two wheels are off , one is split whilst the rims are sand blasted, other is in the proccess of being split - ive removed all the paint from each bolt but after two weeks with loads of corrosionX on them and with a breaker bar ive only managed to remove 3 and loosen 2 ! Inside the humber ive sanded down ready for some paint nearly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted December 28, 2011 Author Share Posted December 28, 2011 new exhaust sytem is now on and bolted together just need to attach the brackets and manufacture the rear bracket as it was missing. inside is painted in red oxide, LOOKING FOR REV COUNTER CABLE though as it has snapped. Thermometer still doesnt work !! bought some copper nickel 5/16 piping ready for brake pipes to be changed just need flaring tool engine is running nicely and im about to do an oil change and service aswell as coolant change. i have removed rear wheel arch , ground off the rust that has attacked where the original , higher wheel arches had been and started tacking in new metal just untill i learn to tig weld and can make some more substantial welds! pics to follow soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted August 28, 2012 Author Share Posted August 28, 2012 (edited) Update:fully rebuilt fuel pump has been bolted on, brake lines are in place just need nipping up then bleeding. However big problem is the bleed nipples which have welded themselves in place , i have tried one of the front ones and despite welding a socket onto it i cant seem to budge it ( the weld just came away with the top of the bleed nipple ) Soaked it in WD40 type stuff for the moment but considering welding something to it, letting it cool and then heating the casing of the brake expander unit whilst trying to undo it, would this be safe to do ? Nearly finished replacing the front rubber bellows: firstly removed shock absorber then unbolted brake expander unit and next was the cotter pin to remove. Applied loads of heat then slakened the nut and hit the cotter pin upwards and out. unscrewed the adjusting bushes and hit the threaded pin out ( in pic its reassembled ) cut the old rubber bellow off to allow easier access Then removed the outer access bolts and knocked the mills pin out, undid the 4 nuts and bolts which secure the tracta fork casings to one another supporting the hub with an engine hoist i slowly lowered and slid the forks off of one another , being careful not to damage the seal and shims. was then time to slip the new boot on Lined the hole for the mills pin up on the outer fork with the hole in the inner fork , raised the hoist and then when aligned correctly the spline slipped onto one another and the holes line up.( i found due to play in the outer fork i had to pull the holes together using a fine screwdriver. I then aquired new mills pins as it states not to reuse them and mine where so tight that in driving them out they got damaged. the replacement pins are on the right of the picture with the old one on the left hand side after this its just replacing the adjusting pin and bushes, cotter pin , shock absorber and brake expander unit. unfortunately i noticed a small nick in the new passengers side boot and so carefully fixed with sealant and will observe to see if it gets any worse. will also try and source some new jubilee clips. next is to sort out the fittings for the ends of the fuel lines as whilst i have copied the lines in new 10mmm copper piping the ends of the original lines seem to be enlarged to accomidate the unions? Edited August 28, 2012 by richard sweeney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 have just removed the handbrake cable along with brake expander unit from the passengers front side, i want to disconnect the handbrake cable from the expander unit so i can change the body of the expander unit for a spare i have which has a decent bleed nipple on it.( as the old ones bleed nipple is snapped off inside the body of the brake expander unit.) i have got this far and am stuck on how to remove the hanbrake cable from the unit, anyone know how to do this ? i know the picture is of poor quality but you can see the brake cable going into the piston on the expander unit. i take it i need to remove the piston but how !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichSweeney Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 (edited) Very long time no update. Has since had: New brake expander units Replacement Vacuum servo 2 Engine oil and filter changes NOS Master cylinder Run at new years It was clear after the run at new years that a few issues needed addressing, including : A loss of power , making it difficult to climb over 25mph The clutch wont release properly Takes excessive priming of the fuel pump by hand to get started and occasionally very difficult to start. The exhaust silencer needs renewing So the plan from next week: Remove Gearbox and clutch assembly to replace/refurbish using this company who will either match or refurbish the pressure plate, friction plate and release bearing. http://www.clutchnet.co.uk/company.htm Fabricate a new silencer between down pipe and rear section. Replace contact points. (and condenser with new instead of NOS!) Replace fuel line joints (currently using compression fittings which i think are intermittently leaking) with flared ends and unions (convex flare?) Connect all headlights, turn signals and brake lights up. Quick lick of Nato green. Few pictures of 1) A cartoon the local paper did on the Humber 2) A picture of the Humbers previous resting place ( being used for advertisement outside a restaurant for a good few years before we got hold of it ). 3) A recent article on the Humber in our local newspaper as we try to get it ready for Liberation day parade. Edited March 22, 2015 by RichSweeney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Rich well you've certainly put some toil & tears into that over the years. Great will be your satisfaction when the project is completed, although the work will continue just servicing it & keeping pace with problems as they pop up with use. Just a few thoughts. Is your fuel filter clear? Make sure the washer on the bleed screw on the filter is not drawing in air. Make sure your sump level is not going up or smells of fuel, which would mean the diaphragm on the fuel pump is failing. Make sure the gasket on the fuel changeover switch is not drawing in air. Your clutch mechanism, is that still a chain or welded over? Is this freely moving & not bent? Is the clutch release mechanism lubricated, the chrome cup washer on the bell housing should be turned 360 deg once every 1,000 miles. Check there is grease actually in it. Hope you are always moving off in 4WD (1st gear) & in reverse to share the load between the axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichSweeney Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Rich well you've certainly put some toil & tears into that over the years. Great will be your satisfaction when the project is completed, although the work will continue just servicing it & keeping pace with problems as they pop up with use. Just a few thoughts. Is your fuel filter clear? Make sure the washer on the bleed screw on the filter is not drawing in air. Make sure your sump level is not going up or smells of fuel, which would mean the diaphragm on the fuel pump is failing. Make sure the gasket on the fuel changeover switch is not drawing in air. Your clutch mechanism, is that still a chain or welded over? Is this freely moving & not bent? Is the clutch release mechanism lubricated, the chrome cup washer on the bell housing should be turned 360 deg once every 1,000 miles. Check there is grease actually in it. Hope you are always moving off in 4WD (1st gear) & in reverse to share the load between the axles. Thanks Clive appreciate the kind words ! Currently at Uni so cant wait to get back and start work on it. Oil level and smell was fine when I checked, I replaced the fuel filter so I'm pretty sure its clear but will check and it should be a fibre washer? from memory its currently using a copper washer so will change that. Also the threaded hole for the grease cup was stripped when I checked so will put a Heli-coil in when I've got the box out. Out of interest for your fuel lines did you use compression fittings or did you flare the ends of the pipes ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Should be a fibre washer. All my fuel & air lines are compression joints, after all they have to carry central heating oil at minimal pressure. Got all the pipes & joints from B&Q. Where they terminate they are soldered to the original fittings. The hose below is only in the air line. But I doubt if yours has a compressor still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichSweeney Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Should be a fibre washer. All my fuel & air lines are compression joints, after all they have to carry central heating oil at minimal pressure. Got all the pipes & joints from B&Q. Where they terminate they are soldered to the original fittings. The hose below is only in the air line. But I doubt if yours has a compressor still. Ah right I understand, that's what I have done differently, I didn't have the original fittings so have used compression fittings where the pipes terminate with some new unions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Just another thought Rich. In a Pig originally each tank was vented by a pipe emerging from under the front antenna mounts on each side. But in 1975 there was a mod so the vent pipes combine & pass through a shared flame trap. This is prone to get blocked with spider detritus etc preventing the tank being properly vented. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichSweeney Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Just another thought Rich. In a Pig originally each tank was vented by a pipe emerging from under the front antenna mounts on each side. But in 1975 there was a mod so the vent pipes combine & pass through a shared flame trap. This is prone to get blocked with spider detritus etc preventing the tank being properly vented. thanks I hadn't even considered that ! Will update this thread once I have given the pig a check over, just arranged use of an engine hoist, very excited to get back to the pig and start work now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 just arranged use of an engine hoistRich that's to lift the gearbox I assume, but you are not moving the engine are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichSweeney Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Rich that's to lift the gearbox I assume, but you are not moving the engine are you? Yes just for taking the weight of the gearbox as I imagine its a bit heavier than the modern ones I'm used to ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Hi Rich , I used a block and tackle attached to between the roof hatches pretty straight forward once you have the bulk head armour out of the way ! I didn't take the gearbox right out , just enough to replace the clutch if I remember correctly but it was a long time ago so don't quote me on it ! Good luck mate ! :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 As Andy says that's the way to do it. A bit more crowded in the Hornet though. A nitwit had burnt out the clutch & cracked the flywheel. So I had to replace both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.