Chris Hall

The plastic ones should be fine as the crimped plastic end is retained on the case when fired. DAG was the manufacturer I was thinking of http://www.wallarms.com/9mmDagBlank50.aspx

Is is this image from an Army pam or from a Sterling catalogue/Brochure? The gun appears to be a commercial Mk4 rather than British issue? I'll have to keep my eyes open for one now. The Blanks look like the German plastic tip blanks we currently use. They're not cheap but I'd imagine the MOD get a trade discount.

Non of the Pams I have for the L2 list how many mags would be carried so it must be in a non L2 pan i.e. Personnel kit or maybe routine orders. Theres no BFA listed in the 1978 L2 accessories pam. There was one for the Canadian version, the C1. Ive never heard of an official BFA for the Lanchester and I don't recall hearing of there being any 9mm blanks until much later after WW2. There may of course be some non British BFAs made anytime between WW2 and the present but I expect it's easier to put a bolt through a worn out barrel than to design a True BFA.

Aparantley it is not statute law yet. It is an EU directive that had an efective date of April 8th. That's is how D&B and many others have interpreted it and so they still sell non EU compliant deacs. I won't be buying any more now regardless of what happens. did anyone read the one liner that even if deactivated to current EU guidelines, and the guidelines then change in the future, you will have to redeactivate to the then new standard. So anyone who thinks an EU spec Deac is a safe investment, think again.

I have one of those too somewhere. I'll take a look.

Not expensive, these were £4 each last year at a local show. The seller didn't know what they were.

Thats the common type, they're were others for 1917, 1919A6 etc. is yours Yellow, Black or Red?? Can you describe it in lieu of a photo?

These are British Enfield made 1919A4 / L3 blank fire devices but you get the idea. If you need more photos let me know.

There is a young man on the 1919a4 forum who is now blind in one eye thanks to that Spring. He admitted he was stupid and he knew he shouldn't but....

As the title says, I'm looking for an early GPW block, as long as any cracks are fixable. I've got most of the fittings off my existing GPW engine.

If you wanted to keep it to as original as possible, you need to match the wood to the rifle. I think there was Winchester, Eddystone (ERA) and Remington. P17 wood work will not have volley sights but should fit.

That is sensible and logical in my opinion.

If your driving up the A1 it's quicker to come off the A1 at Colsterworth and follow the signs for RAF Cranwell. This takes you over the high dyke and you get to Sleaford about 20 minutes quicker than going through Grantham and about 50 minutes quicker than Newark. The high dyke doesn't look much on a map but it's the old roman road (Ermine way) so is straight and with very little traffic.

have you thought about it another way. How much do you intend to use the bike? Cylinder heads are very common and are cheap. How about using lead replacement addatives. It could work out much cheaper to run as is rather than getting your valve seats done.

I forgot to mention, another cause of chain wear to the case is the use of modern chains with the seals. They are slightly wider so the clearances are less.

Ron, your L chain case should have an inner and outer disc, it looks to have the 2 rivets that attach the 2 half a together. There would have been a cork or leather seal in between. The seals didn't last long and all the ones I've repaired only had the remains left around the rivets.

Certainly not an MB

What else are you selling?

There's so many possibilities with the 276. Have you got a 1A float bowl? Is the needle in the correct groove? Is it the correct Union (This effects float height)? Is the bore of the body worn (Air can be sucked in past the throttle slide even a new slide). This is only the start!

The main reason why the chain and or clutch rub on the case is because usually there are a number of spacers missing or the bracket are in the incorrect position. The idea is that as you adjust the primary chain by moving the gearbox, the circular disc in Rons pic moves back and forth with the main shaft, thus maintaining a seal (ish). The disc you see is one of two, the second being on the back of the case. These 2 discs are sandwiched over a seal, possibly cork or leather (rubber would work better) and secured by rivets (I've seen them welded).

Watched a naff film last week, can't even remember what it was about but the guards had AR15s with the hand guards removed. I love watching Star Wars to see the various guns, Stirlingshire, MG34s, Broomhandle mousers, even Obi Wons light sabre has the muzzle booster off a Browning 303 Mk2.

Can you give us some feedback when it's all finished? I need my GPW rad doing.

Unless your in a rush, keep an eye on eBay or do a completed listings search for the guy who sells NOS kits.

Looks like q storage or transport cradle for some large piece of kit. Is the a data plate or possibly a long number stencilled on it?

I bought some parts of that company in March, they were out of stock of one part so asked if I could wait 5 days for it to come in. I waited and waited, so I emailed and heard nothing for 3 weeks and then had a response only hours after receiving notification of shipping. When the box turned up they got 5 items wrong, I only complained about 2 of the items as I can use the others and when I got a reply, they told me my package was shipped. I complained again that the problem was not shipping but the wrong items and I've got heard anything for 2 weeks now. Apart from the mistakes made, the other items were good but unfortunately I'll never buy from them again.