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  1. Can anyone give me some advice on a Jeep fuelling problem? I decided to rebuild my '44 Willys MB carb this week, as I suspected fuel starvation; I took the Jeep out a few weeks ago in the really cold weather and it kept cutting out at idle, but would start again with some throttle and choke, eventually I got home and it stalled and wouldn't start again. I got it to start a few weeks later, but it would only run with the choke and would cut out really easily when the throttle was opened. I have just rebuilt the carb using a kit I had from Dallas Autos, and put it back on the engine, but it was difficult to start and still won't run without choke, even when warm . If I open the throttle it dies straight away. It sounds like a fuel blockage, but I don't know where to start. Does anyone have any ideas on the likes culprit? I don't want to have to strip the carb down completely all over again if I don't have to, as I don't have a lot of time. I am trying to get the Jeep ready for an event on Salisbury plain this weekend and it is refusing to cooperate! Any advice greatly appreciated.
  2. Recently restored peugeot p4. Immaculate inside and out. Low mileage engine, on the button and a good drive. One of only a handful in uk, but parts are easy to buy. Historic motor class. Based on the mercedes g wagon, so formidable off road. Bristol based, but can deliver. 11,250 (no vat) Was used in gulf war and only recently released by french airforce.
  3. Manufacturer unknown and nearly new condition, slight bend in mounting rail would easily hammer straight. Collection from DE65 or 2nd class postage £20.25, looking for circa £30 for the Seat itself. regards nick
  4. So I have made a new purchase of what I believe is a M606/CJ3B I have no history of the vehicle or Jeeps - I have always been a Land Rover person. I know it is a bitsa with Land Rover lights and heater but not sure what else is genuine. I cannot see a chassis number and have attached pictures of the engine number. The data plate on the dash shows a 2006 date and a modern style VIN hence the Q plate Wondering if people can tell me what is genuine and what is wrong. It has not run for 10 years so a full service and new oils is first priority Thanks Colin
  5. In the MV world, the "Holy Grail" is probably to find an original Jeep in its shipping crate. Of course, other than those at the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean in the holds of sunken ships, it's very unlikely anyone will ever find one. The whole "Jeep in a crate for $50" idea came from a post war scam, trying to con people out of their money. However, there are a number of photos around the net showing Jeeps in crates, although how they were packed and how disassembled they were seems to vary from picture to picture. This model was built for a friend, with the hood number matching his Jeep. The Jeep is from the 1/35 scale Italeri kit with a scratch built crate from ramin strip wood and 1/32 birch plywood. The metal tie down straps are black painted paper, with painted wire over paper holding the wheels into the tub. It is presented in an A4 box frame.
  6. until
    With out a doubt one of the best shows of the year, Guy Martins MkIV Replica Tank Deborah II, WWI Camp & WWII re-enactments, 500+ military vehicles, including the Bob James Collection on show & post-war. BBMF flypast, Spitfire with working merlin engine, Horse-Drawn WWI GS Wagon, Life size WWII camp, over 50 Stalls selling Parts, Collectables, Uniforms & Militaria of all shapes and sizes. Vehicle Forms: click link below: https://nebula.wsimg.com/72053dc5969ff3178e9e90f816be3e50?AccessKeyId=827D05885F2BA61EC544&disposition=0&alloworigin=1 Re-enactor/Living history forms: click link below: https://nebula.wsimg.com/bad19f6078c92df22dcec3195de031ed?AccessKeyId=827D05885F2BA61EC544&disposition=0&alloworigin=1
  7. With out a doubt one of the best shows of the year, Guy Martins MkIV Replica Tank Deborah II, WWI Camp & WWII re-enactments, 500+ military vehicles, including the Bob James Collection on show & post-war. BBMF flypast, Spitfire with working merlin engine, Horse-Drawn WWI GS Wagon, Life size WWII camp, over 50 Stalls selling Parts, Collectables, Uniforms & Militaria of all shapes and sizes. Vehicle Forms: click link below: https://nebula.wsimg.com/72053dc5969ff3178e9e90f816be3e50?AccessKeyId=827D05885F2BA61EC544&disposition=0&alloworigin=1 Re-enactor/Living history forms: click link below: https://nebula.wsimg.com/bad19f6078c92df22dcec3195de031ed?AccessKeyId=827D05885F2BA61EC544&disposition=0&alloworigin=1
  8. I'm after a Jeep 600x16 split rim and a bar grip tyre, knackered ones as I will be cutting both in half. Regards Mike
  9. I'm after a jeep radiator it will be for display purposes only, so doesn't need to be servicable
  10. I've got 2 spare combat rims they need work holes oval you can use them as is if you put them on a trailer. Not rusty I can post pics if anyone interested £80 a rim I can box them up and courier them
  11. J Malan Heslop a selection of photos from a great archive showing some interesting details
  12. Hello all Thanks for adding me to the Forum My name is Pieter Bergman , live in the Netherlands and currently restoring a Chevrolet C8a HUP and a Ford GPW jeep My progress can be followed also on facebook www.facebook.com/ChevroletC8A/ please take a look when you have the time and leave your comments. Regards Pieter
  13. Could anybody please let me know where I would get hold of a MB Jeep Tandem Hitch or A frame as I may need to tow my Jeep with another military vehicle fitted with a standard pintle hitch. Thanks in advance Andy
  14. Hi I've got a rear axle for the willys jeep it's in bits so be aware this isn't just a swap over job after £200 any interest I'll post pictures. I've a lot of parts that I will be selling so if interested drop me a line and I'll send you pictures
  15. Hi fellows, Somedays ago, searching for some info at the web, I came across this forum and this link. I must admit that I was really shocked with this restoration! I´m not sure if the restorer is located at UK neither if the jeep has been finished: http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/projects-restorations/513006-non-vaux-1942-willys-jeep-ww2-ground-up-build.html If anybody of you know more about this story, I´ll be really grateful to read more about this one! Thanks a lot!
  16. Hello there, Has anyone got any advice re changing the bulbs in the headlights of my M201 Hotchkiss? Ive never done it before... Thanks Sam
  17. Finally got fed up with my Jeep not starting so I converted it to 12 volts. I’m sure somebody has already explained how easy it is but I thought I would jot down a few lines on how I did mine. I totally rebuilt my jeep from the chassis up about 4 years and wanted to stick to 6 volt but a couple of years later the battery wasn’t quite good enough to start it and I have been forever having to use the starting handle for the last 18 months. I tried everything I knew to stick with 6 volts and make it work reliably but basically I don’t drive it enough and you can’t seem to buy a good 6 volt battery these days so I took the plunge and brought myself into the modern world. The conversion to 12 volts was easy and only cost me about £150 including a decent battery. Lots of people I spoke to have had different ideas but the following worked for me. 1. Regulator. I bought an old style Lucas 12 v regulator to fit a Land Rover (also used for many other older Morris Minors, Austins, etc.). I used the type with screw in connections so I could just cut off the existing larger ring connectors and strip the wires bear but you could use the one with Lucar connectors just as easily. This was £25 new and I fitted it in place of the original, some people I have spoken to have stripped the insides of the old one and fitted this type inside as its about half the size so it looks original but I couldn’t bring myself to do this as my 6v regulator was brand new when I rebuilt the jeep and will live it not looking perfect. 2. Connect as follows: The Old Regulator has Field, Arm & Bat connectors with an earth to the case. The new Regulator has E, D, F, A, A1. a. Field wire (Green wire from the small connector on the Dynamo, which is the one nearest the Regulator). Connect to F. b. Arm wire (red/white lead with larger connector on the Dynamo, which is the one nearest the block). Connect to D. c. Bat wire (Red/White lead which goes to under the dash) Connect to A. d. Earth wire from the Dynamo. Connect to E. I also ran a wire from an earth on the chassis to E as well as you can’t have too many earths !! e. A1 is spare which you could use for any other non ignition switched feeds you need if you wished. 3. Dynamo, nothing needed here as it will push out as many volts as you need and is of course controlled by the Regulator. I did actually have a problem as it didn’t charge when I started it on 12 volts. I took it into Autoelectrical in Glastonbury who sorted it, it turned out to be an earthing fault. I think this was due to me cleaning the brushes and when I put them back in I managed to mis-locate the brush wires and cause an earthing problem (I should have left well alone !!). 4. Ignition. Replace the ignition coil with a 12v one, cost £10. I had a Jolly Engineering electronic ignition fitted which was an earlier failed attempt to solve the 6v starting problem, I had to remove this and go back to the original points as it is wired for 6 volts and would have blown if I’d used it on 12v. Good old fashioned points work well on 12 volts so no need to change. 5. Headlights, this nearly caused me a problem as 12v 5 ¾ sealed beam units (5731) are no longer available. However Autoelectrical had some Halogen bulb conversion units for £35 a pair which fit the headlamps bowls once you slightly bend the three mounting tabs through 45 degrees on the lamps so they fit nicely. Connectors are of course the same so no re-wiring just blank off the side light hole in the lenses. The bonus is halogen lamps instead of 6v candles. 6. Front lights. I have four standard marker lamps on the front, 2 as sidelights on the tops of the wings (I have the Jeep in British markings, the Brits fitted them here) and two in the usual places in the grille as indicators with amber lenses in. These were straight 12v bulb replacements. 7. Rear Lights. When I rebuilt the Jeep it removed the black outs from the lower rectangles and fitted amber lenses and used them as indicators. I removed the sealed lenses/bulbs and cut the bulb ends off and stuck the lenses into the mounting ring with clear sealer (as the bulb ends hold the lenses in place normally but as you just cut them off they will be loose). Standard 380 & 382 bulbs then fit into the holders. 8. Dash lights, I had fitted 12v ones on rebuild anyway but a straight replacement. 9. Flasher Unit. Straight replace with a 12v unit. I did have a problem I think caused by the bulbs being low wattage which meant they didn’t trigger the unit. When I plugged in a trailer board to the trailer socket I have fitted hidden under the rear cross member the extra bulb and wattage caused the unit to work fine, a heavy duty flasher unit cured this. 10. Battery. I found a black cased heavy duty battery for £70, part number 030 fits the tray perfectly and is the largest one you can get in there but other cheaper sizes are available just a bit smaller. Job done, now starts instantly, lights are great and I don’t have to worry about trailer lights. No other changes are needed, the wiring is fine, 6v actually needs double the ampage of 12v so is more than heavy enough if in good condition. I’ve been told that the fuel gauge will read wrong unless you fit a resister but I have to say I have never known a Jeep fuel gauge be right in any case !! The starter is fine unless you keep it turning over for too long but it now starts after about a second so should be fine, apparently you can get a better starter bendix spring if it plays up. Hope that is useful, its certainly made a very big difference starting both hot and cold. Some pictures below for those interested.
  18. Does anyone have any details of any jeep specialists in the NE of England? I need a gearbox rebuild and there doesn't seem to be anyone in the area? Your help is appreciated. Cheers Chris :undecided:
  19. A friend of mine has just bought a Jeep, without boring you all with the details, this supposedly professionally rebuilt Jeep, isn't !! The net result is apart from various other things which we can help him sort the gearbox jumps out of second on over-run badly, I know its not unusual but this one is extreme and it leaks a lot of oil, again I know they are not perfect but this leaves an oil patch the size of a top hat over night, its also nowhere near as smooth changing as mine. Getting the box out is not a problem but can anybody please suggest somewhere to either get this box re-built or a replacement box supplied. My friend is new to MV's so it would be good if I could try and help him out with a sensible solution. We are based in Somerset. Thanks Andy
  20. Hi all. I am a retired IT manager and for years I have always done the sensible thing. Much to my wife's disgust I have purchased a replica WW2 jeep from Dog replica company in Newport, Gwent. this is a bit mad but you only live once! The jeep is mainly from a Jago jeep but has many original and authentic jeep parts. The markings are from the Band of Brothers program - Dick Winters personal vehicle. really looking forward to some calm weather to give it a good run out
  21. Plus FV432s & FV434 " width="644" height="390">">Something went wrong... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uttUlX5bImA " width="644" height="390">">Something went wrong... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Do__k685lGs
  22. Hi just got my jeep this week after months of searching and disappointments. Shes in good fettle hence I've done about 100 miles this week, but the exhaust position means I get blackening all over the off side rear tyre and wheel. The previous owner used lead substitute I don't intend to. Having looked underneath there is some scope to move the exhaust a bit but not enough to kick it out past the wheel I don't think. Whats the views on adding a slight bend to the end of the pipe to divert it a little? The jeep is a 1943 Ford GPW with lots of F marked parts and the original engine and chassis, though the tub and chassis are solid the engine needs some TLC over the winter but until then I'm going to use her every week and get out to some shows. Any strong views on whats best?:red:
  23. Hi. My name's Rod and I joined the forum today. I've an interest in all military vehicles but my preference is for WW2 soft skins and I admit a particular fondness for the humble Jeep. i'm an office worker by trade, so take every opportunity I can to blat about in my mostly 1944, mostly Ford GPW, just for the hell of it. From what I've seen so far there's a lot of expertise out there, so I'm really looking forward to virtually meeting you all.
  24. as the forum suggests i know this sounds stupid but Am looking at re spraying my jeep (m38a1) & have got a tin of matt paint from a reputable supplier. I've test sprayed it (2 coats) & although the colour is good, once dry the paint seems to mark very easily when lightly scratched & i this will be no good for the jeep am i doing something wrong? or is this just how it is? would this be avoided if applied with roller? would this be avoided if i used a satin finish ? any tips greatly appreciated
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