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  • Location
    Virginia, USA
  • Interests
    Military History
  1. This thread and your workmanship, Capt.Max have certainly been an inspiration to the rest of us with or without ferrets...That reminds me, I really need to get back on mine........ Regards, Matt
  2. Not sure. I'll take a closer look and see. Thanks for the reply. Matt
  3. Adjustable spanners don't get as firm a grip on the fastener to be removed as I'd like. I've seen them round off the flat corners of bolts/nuts before. So let's not go there....... Matt
  4. I have a ferret Mk. 1/2 that I'm working on. Would like to remove the rubber lines that are plugged into the oil cooler so that I can remove the cooler itself & straighten all of the little "hoops". Anyone know what size spanner would fit the rubber hoses? All of the fasteners on my ferret seem to be SAE and I've tried a couple of different sized wrenches on there but they are either a lose fit or won't go on at all (wonder if they might be metric?). Thanks. Regards, Matt
  5. Actually makes it easier to get at all of the belts & hoses if the engine decking & rear plate have been removed. Why are we discussing this? Matt
  6. As promised the belt part # & size. I was able to find belts at Carquest. They couldn't find anything on their computers using the original RR part number on my original belt so we measured up everything and found one that worked. Carquest part # 9530HD Belt measures: 1/2" x 53-7/16" (13mm x 1357mm). Matt
  7. Thanks guys. One has to remove so much (heavy) stuff to get to those belts I just wanted to make sure that the new production "cog" type belts would be ok. I'll post the size & part number of the new belts for future reference in a little bit......... Matt
  8. I'm in the middle of changing out all of the belts & hoses in the engine compartment of my Mk.1/2 ferret. This particular ferret is equipped with an alternator and has the three automotive type v belts. I was able to source three replacement belts from an auto parts house that are the same length, width but they are the "cogged belt" type and the OEM belts are the smooth type. Does that make a differnece? Can I use the cogged belt in my ferret seeing how it is the same size as the OEM belt? Regards, Matt
  9. In the throws of replacing all of the hoses on my ferret's B60 engine. While I'm at it and everything's off on the back of the vehicle I thought I'd replace the belts as well. This ferret doesn't have the generator with the two large belts but rather the alternator with three automotive style "V" belts. I loosened the lower nut on the alternator's mount hoping to shove it in towards the B60 & take slack off of the belts but this hasn't worked so far. Maybe I have to loosen the upper mounting bolt as well? Anyone on here done a fan belt change on an alternator equipped ferret before? Regards, Matt
  10. Went with option B and now I have to deal with those little caged nuts. I guess even nuts don't like being in cages :-D. While I was removing the last two bolts I had my body propped up against the plate to keep it from falling free, onto the floor. When the last two bolts were out, the plate was still held fast to the hull. Had to use a malet to break the plate free from the hull. Apparently, someone had used caulk to make a seal between the plate & the flange it bolts up to. Has anyone else ever seen that done before? Matt
  11. Thanks. I was pretty much leaning towards option B, as well. I've removed those plates before on other ferrets & they're not that heavy but I still don't want it falling on me :cool2:. Matt
  12. Attempting to remove rear plate from my ferret so I gain access to the radiator (belts & hose replacement). There are two bolts on the lower (sloping) side of the armor that are oposite one another with boogered up nuts. The nuts turn inside their cages along with the bolt when I place a socket on them. I tried jamming a flat head screw driver inside the cage to hold the nut in place but no dice, nuts still turn w/ bolt. Here's what I was thinking: A) I haven't removed the bolts across the top (vertical face)of the plate as I was saving those for last (don't want the plate to fall on me). If I remove those maybe the weight of the plate itself would put enough pressure onto the errant nuts to keep them from rotating and I could remove the bolts. Would have to figure out something to keep the plate from falling on me, though. B) Leaving the upper bolts in place, take the angle grinder to the two non compliant bolts and cut 'em off. With the plate removed, I could then deal with the problem nuts in their cages (which are on the hull). What does the hive mind think? Anyone else on here ever have this problem? Matt
  13. Don't know. I did some searches and couldn't find any info on doing a cooling system flush on the ferret. I assume a flush on one would be the same as on any other vehicle with a radiator? Any idea as to where the drain petcock on the B60 might be? Is it near one of the belly plate access ports (hopefully)? Regards, Matt
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