Chris Hall

The RAF never purchased guns from Fabrique National, their version of the ANM2 was different to the RAFs version which became the Browning MkII and II*. We did have a smal number of Colt ANM2s before BSA, Standard and Vickers began production.

They still come up occasionally, I picked up 10 NOS lamps about 5 years ago, 3 went to South Africa, 3 I used myself and 4 went on eBay, the last only about 6 months ago. I'll keep my eyes open.

The medal is the Kuwait liberation medal from GW1. I'm sure the presentation coins are from the same campaign.

These taps do pop up every so often. The post war versions are chromed but are the same. I have always found then to need new corks though. Hitchcocks are good but on a few occasions I've found their parts incorrect and don't believe me when I've told them. I prime example being the rear stand Spring stud, completely wrong and wouldn't fit. They told me my frame and stand had been modified. Even when I sent a photo of 4 frames, stands and studs they insisted their example was correct. That annoyed me but over all they are very good. Burtons are also very good and often over looked for NOS parts.

Check it's the correct carb too.

You can find the bearing cheaper elsewhere. Just go on one of the Internet sites. as had been said, it may be beneficial to overhaul the whole box. You can replace the bearing with out taking the box out but Sod's law would suggest that you find it needs a good clean at minimum.

Did you identify where the leak was coming from? No Seal and I didn't use any sealant on the cover.

You can do it in situ if your careful. Before you do though, check the level of your engine oil and primary chain case. I have heard of wet dumping engines forcing the oil Out of the drive side engine bearing into the primary chain case and filling that. If that oil built up enough I suppose it could find its way down the main gearbox shaft and out of the other end.

The No.2 Binos were still in use under an L designation when I was in Iraq in 2005, the ones we had were dated 1944 I think. REL Canada made C No4 sniper rifle sights during WW2, I don't think the B&L binos are for that case.

It sounds like you need a sealed bearing in the inner cover. When I last did a few boxes, I asked Hitchcocks about sealed bearings but they only did open bearings (They did say it was a good idea and now they stock them). I got some sealed bearings off the net and fitted those on both sides and they've never leaked a drop. I have to check there's oil in there just to be sure I put it in!

As has been said, I've used old petrol as a degreaser. I then put it in old 5 litre tins and keep it for a few months to allow the crap to settle out and then I use it again and again. You'd be amazed at how many times it can be reused. I also use old engine oil in with creosote on my fence. The neighbours wonder why my panels are so black and after 15 years are still standing when their panels have been replaced!

I'm thinking ex British Army. Vehicle details Vehicle make WILLYS Date of first registration 16 April 1947 Year of manufacture 1942 Cylinder capacity (cc) 0cc CO₂Emissions Not available Fuel type PETROL Vehicle status Not taxed Vehicle colour GREEN Vehicle type approval Not available Wheelplan 2 AXLE RIGID BODY Revenue weight

Same hair style too

Would that hat be the heavy canvas green bag with a zip down the middle and 6 little feet riveted to the bottom?

http://m.ebay.ie/itm/VINTAGE-MOTORCYCLE-MILLER-HEAD-LIGHT-LIGHTWEIGHT-VILLIERS-ENGINED-/401049153026?nav=SEARCH would need a bit of welding

Ha ha, found the same one.

Yep, used on Rudge 250s, I have a 36 500 special so has the 34e I think it is but this one sold for £180 on eBay. http://m.ebay.ie/itm/VINTAGE-VETERAN-MOTORCYCLE-MILLER-TYPE-TAIL-LAMP-RUDGE-VELOCETTE-AJS/181829686005

No, I think that is a Miller tail lamp. I'll have to look in my book to ID it.

Scarce but not not impossible, expensive to repair though.

It's possible the marks are from clamps or similar used in the jig process. My GPW doesn't have them but it's a VEP on a midland frame so built differently.

If it does turn out to be a DM3G, your laughing. Plenty of them around.

Use decent oil, gun oil if you can but not WD40 or one of the Teflon types. A copper 2p coin has always been handy for removing stuban rust. The forces use Red scotch bright (Defo not the green). One of the best things you could do is to leave oil to soak into the steel for a few weeks or more. If the Enfield is a SMLE type, you must remove the forwood before removing the butt as the butt bolt has a square on the end and this locks into the forewood. If the forewood is left on and the bolt is turned, the forwood can/will split.

is it Defo a Miller alternator as it looks like a standard DM3G to me.

I have no idea what they are but the frames were made by having 2 x 1 piece rails with a boxed section welded to the inside. I've not seen marks like that before.

The collar badges of the light infantry are opposing so the horn faces outwards, one left, one right. Looks like this one was copied from a left collar badge.