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Munga talk...

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I would have it reconed...... but a vital part is missing for that.... the MC!!!!. But cheers for the thought....

 

From experience it would still be worth a phone call to past parts, they carry a lot of spares.

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I would have it reconed...... but a vital part is missing for that.... the MC!!!!. But cheers for the thought....

 

Pastparts also do a find the difficult ones service so still worth contacting. If you get one of a parts vehicle you won't know condition anyway. Bad if they don't go ***disaster if they don't stop!

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Hi, if you need a MC I will see what I have in my spares pile. The MC is a hard to find bit, but is about at times. I may have a used but servicable one. You can get seal kits, and I will see if I have any in the shed.

As to how to show etc. Well think of the MUNGA as like any small 4x4 used by the military etc. If yours is ex-Dutch, (look for the two stroke oil tank under the bonnet) then show it as dutch Heer. Or do it as BOAR, MP ones were gloss black with white wall tyres!

The German version, if it has a big nut on the front of the steering wheel was for air dropping. I have a nice bit of film showing this, with the Luftwaffe pushing them out of the back of a plane for a pastime!

Send me a PM, and I can see what can be done to help you. I have to say I gave up with the DKW UK club in the end.

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Sorry. Harry, my last remaining braincell was in his deckchair having a beer again! Yes, RAF in Germany did use MUNGAs.

A company in Germany can supply recon kits for about 50 euro. A new MC is about 200 euro.

 

Some local bits are;

 

Clutch is the same as early Beetle or Porche 365, talk to your local GSF.

Carb is much the same as Porche 365, so most bits fit. The same carb is fitted to 404 Unimogs, and Haflingers.

Shocks are the same as T2 VW camper van, try your local GSF.

Condensers are common to most German light trucks.

Contacts can be modified from Series 2 Land Rover ones, bit not ideal.

All the electrics are common to Unimogs, etc of the period.

Use NKG A6 plugs in place of the military plugs to get you started, as the millitary plugs are harder to come by. Just use ignition lead set from a Mini.

Use only SAE oil in the gear train, EP oil will destroy the seals and bronze parts of the gear train.

Coils are the same as older British motorbikes, 12 volt ones not 6 volt.

Petrol tank senders can be repaired, I can tell you how.

 

Hope this helps.

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CAN I PLEASE ASK YOU CHAPS A QUESTION?

 

I live near to Ipswich (Suffolk) I want to get involved with a group of other likeminded people who like all things green. My brother belongs to Coal House Fort and seems to have a great time helping others and meeting up and going to shows etc... . (A little too far from me). SO DO YOU KNOW ANYONE ROUND THIS WAY? I really want to start showing next year at W&P, Bunker Bash etc...

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There used to be a map on the forum somewhere with peoples locations. I am in a bit of a blak hole here myself so I sympathise! Are you not a member of the MVT?

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no i suppose i should join... any good?

got a bit shafted (i feel) when i joined another club, so hoping to go on word of mouth etc... this time round otherwise it's bit of a waste of beer money..

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Ive been a member of the MVT for about 18 months now. The magazine is a great source of info. Went to my first meeting the other weekend (See John Marchant thread in meetings), with my first roadworthy MV, the Iltis. Very friendly bunch of people, and i had a great time going in convoy through the villages with the others. Member of IMPS too, but prefer MVT, not sure why though!

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MVT, is not too interested in the MUNGA! I got told to take my "**********" off the show ground at one MVT event!

I did help a chap who lives close to Rougham, and he had a very good MUNGA 4. He was doing it up in full Dutch service levels. You can't miss him, as he is about 6 foot 2 plus, and built like a brick out house. Really nice chap, and provided some spares for me, to keep a couple of other vehicles alive.

I will try and find his Phone number or email address and PM you.

I will PM you about the MUNGA club, and other bits.

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MVT, is not too interested in the MUNGA! I got told to take my "**********" off the show ground at one MVT event!

 

 

Must admit, this blinkered attitude shown by SOME

 

 

folk, perporting to speak for the membership of the MVT, yes, I am a member, and have absolutly NO problems with vehicles of other era's,/conflicts being shown at events,...............makes for a more rounded show IMHO.

 

If you were nearer, I'd say, come and join us at Easy Company,........who all own wwii and on vehicles.

 

All the best, and look forward to seeing vehicle in the flesh, so to speak, :) somewhen.

 

Andy

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A few notes about the repair, and for maintainers, and drivers of the MUNGA.

 

If you don’t use the oil injection pump on the engine, make sure you use good low ash 2 stroke oil at 40:1 in the tank.

 

You should not need any choke to start at anything other than sub zero temperatures. Just hold your foot on the throttle pedal, and don’t pump it!

 

Use the blind to ensure you get a fast warm up, only lower it once the engine is a working temperature.

 

To start a hot engine keep your foot off the throttle, but pull the choke out a little. This makes the mixture a little weaker, and helps starting when hot. If you pump the throttle you will flood it, and you will need to wait or take the plugs out!

 

The plate on the driver’s floor with 4 screws covers the master cylinder; take care with the cap as it’s made of a plastic type material.

 

Use only SAE grade oil in the transmission, NOT EP. EP oil has additives which will eat the bronze parts and the seals.

 

 

 

Make sure that the little spring washers are behind the condensers in the ignition unit, as these are required to provide the earth return connection.

 

Don’t try and run the engine without the air cleaner, or exhaust. Two strokes need a sealed system to work, as not valves are fitted.

 

Turn off and remove the master switch handle, when you have stopped the engine.

 

You must have at least one position clockwise set on the lighting switch, or you will not have any stop lamps, indicators etc. To turn the switch; push in the little button above the lever of the switch.

 

The speedo has gear change marks on it, and you should use them to ensure your in the right gear. And yes, two strokes do scream to produce power!

 

Use NCK A6 plugs, if you can’t get military plugs. Use a set of old type mini leads to connect up.

 

The coils are 12 volt British bike ones, have a look for them on ebay etc.

 

Headlamp bulbs are not like the ones in the UK. But can be obtained.

 

Don’t try to run the heater water pump unless the heater taps are turned on.

 

Don’t try to use the engine for braking, two strokes don’t do it very well.

 

Make sure you use a good anti-freeze, as it’s needed to stop corrosion in the engine. The engine is iron and alloy, with a copper gasket.

 

Grease the steering joints and wheel stations frequently.

 

Tyres must be within 20m/m of each other in circumference, as not central diff is fitted. You can do this by adjusting the pressures a little, but as tyres wear you will need to take more care.

 

Shock absorbers are the same as the ones fitted to VW type 2 vans.

 

The clutch can be changed for an early VW Beetle one, but you will need to change the plate and pressure plate. The same is fitted to the Porsche 356.

 

The level in the carb is very important; change the washers under the needle valve to obtain the right setting.

 

If you take the engine out, smear a little instant gasket on the mating surfaces before re-fitting.

 

All four seat MUNGAs were designed to carry radios from day one. Look under the back seat behind the driver, you should see a box with a socket on one end. This is for connection to the radio for 24 volt supply.

The batteries are fitted behind the driver, in a box (most will have been removed) and leads with round post terminal are fitted. Its 24 volts so you will need two. These are the same size as the vehicle batteries, and are interchangeable.

If you don’t get any charging current when the engine is running at a fast idle, the “FUNK” fuse is blown.

The antenna mounting bracket, antenna base etc are the same as fitted to some jeeps. A base and antenna cost about £25 brand new.

 

To carry cargo, remove the back seats and fit the load board. This is piece of 6m/m ply. With a couple of blocks fitted to engage with the seat fixings, so that you have a flat load surface.

 

The yellow light on the dash warns you that the two stroke oil is not getting to the engine, but only if you are using the oil injection pump.

 

 

Don’t tray and adjust the hand brake with the rear wheels lifted. Do in on the flat, and pull the vehicle a little each way to test. The same applies to the adjusting the foot brake. With the wheels lifted, the transmission will fool you into thinking you have brake lock when you don’t.

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Hi Guy's

I must speak as I find and I found a member of Suffolk MVT not very helpful when i was talking to him at a show, which is a shame as alot of people would be put off forom getting involved with such a group, because of his attitude. However, I understand that there is always one idiot, it just so happens I found him!!!.

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Hi Guy's

I must speak as I find and I found a member of Suffolk MVT not very helpful when i was talking to him at a show, which is a shame as alot of people would be put off forom getting involved with such a group, because of his attitude. However, I understand that there is always one idiot, it just so happens I found him!!!.

 

Oh well, at least we are all here!

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Munga for sale in this weeks Classic car Weekly. Looks restored, painted in stone, all ready to go, lots of spares, in Lanarkshire. Free UK delivery as well. No price though.

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Yes - the video is very flashy.

 

I'd rather see and hear the thing run rather than the music.

 

Oh and it's not an Audi Munga - no such thing exists - it's a DKW or Auto Union or a F something or other Munga - as I understand it - Munga was the name for the civillian version - the military version was called something else.

 

Sure the Munga buffs will set the record straight.

 

Anyway - looks a nice vehicle but these things must be running right - ask Kyle.

 

Markheliops

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This one has been for sale for over 2 years that I know about. The price has three zeros on the end, so no chance really. It was used for filmimg, I can't remember what.

Yes Mark, F91/4 for 4 seat, F91/6 six seat, F91/8 for eight seat. Auto union was started is the mis 30's, due to lack of sales by the four companies which formed it. Hence the 4 rings of the Auto union symbol.

These were by size, DKW, Horch, Wanderer, Audi. In the mid 60's VW bought Auto union, and used the 4 rings, and factory that built the F91/4 (MUNGA) built the Iltis.

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Hi, can you give me some details. I will see if it's someone I know. If not, I will see if we can add them to our number, or however buys them.

How are you doing with your/ your dads MUNGA?

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dont know e bay number at mo sorry , just flying visit on here, will try get details later. My dads is progressing slowly as he is not to good at mo. we got it to keep him busy now he is retired.when my mother goes out he sneaks into the garage and is starting to dismantle it !.Will be nice when its finished ,if you look at the jeep pics i have put on ,dont think we did too bad considering we are not mechanics! we just follow the manuals .:coffee:Will keep you posted

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Mark

Here is a link for tail lights, 200244429162 or 130228945181 or lens 200258666579.

 

A quick warning, don't strip the engine unless it's dead or seized. You can't take the crankshaft off, unless you have a very large press and jigs.

As the bottom end bearings, are needle rollers you can't change them and should never need to.

You also need special tools to put the pistons back in, so don't take them out unless you really have to. Also the bottom end must be gas tight, which includes the bell housing.

 

 

Have fun

Andy

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