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64EK26

Bedford MWC restoration

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Hi

 

Engine out

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=124769&stc=1

 

Chassis lowered ready to take tank off

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=124770&stc=1

 

Then I can sort out the back end and get it grit blasted, in the mean time axles etc to refurb

 

Cheers

Richard

image 9.jpg

image 8.jpg

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Frustrating day....

 

 

Rebuilt the gearbox

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=124792&stc=1

 

but, found a crack in the gearbox housing :banghead:

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=124793&stc=1

 

Forunately I have a spare gearbox housing, so all apart again

 

(I seem to be getting two sets of images, even though I have only up loaded one, wonder why this is ??)

image 1.jpg

image.jpg

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Bad luck with the gearbox mate but at least you noticed it in time, anyways it's good practice for you 😉 you are not the only one with problems uploading images, I think everyone else is suffering too and the threads are starting to look a shambles, have brought it the attention of the hmvf but have had no response and the problem persists.

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Tank off ...

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=124917&stc=1

 

Chassis ready for surgury...

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=124918&stc=1

 

Rear bumper to be removed and replaced with correct chassis extensions.

 

Also found a couple of extra brackets on the near side chassis rail where the spring hanger is for the rear wheels, any idea what these are for ? ,possibly pump mounting ? (I dont know how the mono pump is mounted, any pictures anyone )

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=124919&stc=1

 

Back to gearbox tommorrow (I will be rebuilding these in my sleep soon !)

tank.jpg

Chassis-with-text.jpg

Chassis Brackets.jpg

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Think chassis bckt could be to take the silencer part of the exhaust system, not sure what the cross member bckt is though :cool2:

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Think chassis bckt could be to take the silencer part of the exhaust system, not sure what the cross member bckt is though :cool2:

 

Thanks Jeremy - That makes sense..

 

Failrly lazy weekend. Gearbox rebuilt, selection of all gears is nice and posative , feels good (now need finish the rest so I can re-fit it :-D)

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Chassis surgury done, incorrect rear bumper removed, slowly getting ready for the chassis to be grit blasted

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=125206&stc=1

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=125207&stc=1

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=125208&stc=1

 

after blasting. I can see how best to 'patch' in the rear extensions, fortunately they are not structral on a an MWC as there is no tow bar.

chopped chassis.jpg

chopped chassis -1.jpg

chopped chassis -2.jpg

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New shafts for PTO

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=125420&stc=1

 

Hope to re-assemble tommorrow

image 9.jpg

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PTO re-assembled

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=125450&stc=1

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=125451&stc=1

 

I think that the oil seal compression pad should be held in with studs and locknuts (will make some 1/4 BSF studs to suit)

 

Made one of the control rods, just need to turn up the other and make a handle

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=125452&stc=1

 

Also made a re-usable bypass filter as the ZS1 cartriges are hard to find.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=125453&stc=1

 

The base of the ZS1 is cut out so that the insert can be fitted. The insert consists of a 2.75" OD copper tube (eBay £9.99), a shaped end cap made from some scrap brass sheet, and a 2.75" drain plug (£5 from a local agricultural hardware suppliers). The tube in the picture was linked to a small compressor so that I could pressure test it (no leaks at 4Bar/60PSI).

 

Apart from the old case of the ZS1, the flange on the inside of the ZS1 cartridge is re-used as the two brass pipe fittings screw into this. Inside the ZS1 there is a paper cartridge with metal end caps, the top end cap is trimmed in diameter and re-used so the replacement cartridge (from a Mercedes) fits nicely, the spring on the base of old ZS1 cartridge that holds it in place is re-used to make sure the replacement cartridge seals nicely. Little bit of filler at the base, undercoat on...

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=125454&stc=1

 

Just need to paint it black. Overall very pleased with the result

PTO-1.jpg

PTO-2.jpg

pto control rods.jpg

Bypass Filter Parts.jpg

Bypass Filter Assembled.jpg

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PTO Assembled today...

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=125549&stc=1

 

Control rod details, handle is made from a de-chromed tap handle, and the ball is made from a small doo handle. The thin rod is pulled up so the the lever can me nove to engage the PTO, it is sprun loaded so that it stays in place

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=125554&stc=1

 

just about to start on the pump drive shafts (still looking for the pump)

PTO Assembled.jpg

PTO Control Detail.jpg

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Some excellent engineering stuff going on here, well done very much enjoying this thread keep the photos and commentary coming

 

Pete

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Took loads of bits to the grit blasters

 

Started looking at the cylinder head, this will be totally stripped, valves re-seated, replace core plug at rear.

 

Serious de-carbonising needed...

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=125751&stc=1

exhaust valve -6a.jpg

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Hi

 

Haven't posted for a while...

 

I have been plodding on with the axles....

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=126667&stc=1

 

New King Pins shims made and fitted

image 4.jpg

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Hi

 

Not posted for a short while...

 

I have been busy sorting various bits an bobs

 

Starter motor rebuilt (commutator skimmed and new return spring fitted) all tested and working fine

 

Generator refurbished, all tested and working

 

Sourced all the bits I think I need for the engine rebuild, new collets, core plugs timing chain. Still have a question about the block see http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?57600-Bedford-28HP-Cylinder-Block-Core-Expansion-Plugs

(Norman Aish doesn’t know what these are)

 

Cleaning the outside of the fuel tanks, but again I have a couple of questions see http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?57653-Bedford-MW-fuel-tanks-and-fittngs

Will be checking the insides with an endoscope and cleaning out with ball bearings and paraffin

 

The chassis grit blasting is on hold until I get back from W&P. As I will then have an uninterrupted run to get the rear extensions made, do the welding and get plenty of primer on it.

 

Still looking for Stellar filters, differential pumps and a mono pump, any leads would be most welcome.

 

Cheers

Richard

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Photos of fuel tanks

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=127413&stc=1

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=127414&stc=1

 

The threads on the tanks are different, the on on the right has an NPT ? thread and the one on the left has a BSP thread

 

I will be replacing the internal pipe to a brass one with a gauze filter as the existing one is very corroded (does the tap on this tank screw onto the 1/4" BSP outlet ?. I don't have any fittings for the tank on the right.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=127415&stc=1

 

Also I assume that the filler cap on the right in the picture below is the correct one (so need to look out for at least one)

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=127416&stc=1

Fuel Tanks Underside.jpg

Fuel Tanks.jpg

LH Tank Fuel Feed.jpg

Petrol Caps.jpg

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Hi Richard

Might be usefull to use near side and off side when when relating to fuel tanks , I think the fuel cap you need is the left hand green one, if you need another I have a couple of spare ones.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=127417&stc=1

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=127418&stc=1

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=127419&stc=1

 

Here some pics of my leftover fuel tap. Will email you the pics of the MWC I had a good look at when I visited East Kirkby last wkend.

20170714_211233.jpg

20170714_211244.jpg

20170714_211256.jpg

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I have never seen one but are the early Bedford fuel caps pressed steel?

Could the right hand cap be one?

Peter.

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Peter/Jeremy

 

Thanks for the replies and the photo of the fuel tap

 

1) I have labelled the tanks (Near Side amd Off side) - think this is correct

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=127425&stc=1

 

 

2) Peter I see that your Nearside tak (?) has a supporting strap on the neck

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=127426&stc=1

 

3) The fuel cap on the RHS in the picture above is pressed steel, the other is cast (aluminium I think)

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=127427&stc=1

 

Cheers

Richard

Fuel Tanks - labelled.jpg

Peter_75 tank.jpg

Petrol Cap - pressed steel.jpg

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Hi Richard,

The tank picture I posted was OY which is larger and has a slightly different filler neck but the fitments and pipes are the same just longer stand pipes in side the tanks.

Peter.

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I have an odd pair of filler caps that are very similar to yours...... I wonder which sort is correct for each typo of MW.

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Had a chance to do a bit on the Engine Block (inbetween trying to sort out Austin Champ Starter Motor Problema and Ferret Fuel Pump)

 

I can now get at all of the core plugs, which will be replaced (after clearing waterways). As well as taking the pistons out and checking the rings etc. Anything else I should do whilts it is stripped down this far ?

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=127468&stc=1

 

Bell Housing, Flywheel and clutch plate assembly back at home ready for cleaning etc.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=127469&stc=1

 

Will be having a couple of weeks off for W&P. I will be with the Vintage Operating Group, demonstrating radios (WW2 to current), and will be located at the end of the traders area stands R20 - R23. Drop in for a chat if you feel like it.

 

Cheers

Richard

image 11.jpg

image 10.jpg

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I had a MWR many years ago. I don't now have its chassis number but it had most of the late features except that it did not have the sling plates on the hubs. It had the pressed filler caps and at the time I remember that most of the Bedfords that I came accross had pressed caps. The cast ones I think were a very late feature though were completely interchangable so could turn up on any Bedford of that period that had that style of tank.

 

David

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While you have the engine stripped remember to take out the brass rocker feed conection, as it only has a tiny hole in it and blocks easily restricting oil flow to the rockers. take an airline to the gallery at the same time to clear any debris.

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Also check the timing chain and sprockets for wear. There being no tensioner. With a new chain and good sprockets there is hardly any movement, so this will give you an idea.

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Hi

 

Back from W&P where I managed to find a few bits

 

a) Master Clyinder which had beed re-sleeved and fully overhauled

b) Two reear cylinder caseings that had been re-sleeved

c) Set of flexible hoses

d) OX fuel sender

e) inners of the oil/air bath filter (still looking for the mounting bracket, elbow and rest of piping to the carb

 

also had a good look over an MW and took photos and measurements of cab wood work (thanks to Richard, another MW owner)

 

How long are the sender tubes on am MW? obviously the OX ones are longer as the tank is deeper, what I am after are the dimensions below

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=127865&stc=1

 

also where can you get the cork washers for the tap, and how are they fitted ? (see photo below)

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=127869&stc=1

Jeremy-Fuel Tap-dimensioned.jpg

fuel sender-tap1.jpg

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