andy1960 Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 What colour code powder coat did you use please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted September 12, 2017 Author Share Posted September 12, 2017 Hi The power coat is BS381C 298 Olive Drab , suppled by Akzo Nobel (via Cromadex) The gritblasters and powder coaters I used was A1 gritblasting in Southampton. The interpretation of exactly what colour Olive drab is open to a bit of discussion (see http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article/olive-drab/4536/ ), the spray paint I am using is a bit lighter, so I will probabably go for a colour match with the chassis as I quite like the colour Cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Attacked the bulkhead today.... Chopped out most of the rotten bits... The most difficult bit to make will be the wheel arch ... As I am missing most of the floor panels, I will need to get some extended 'I' section as shown below (any Ideas where I can get some ? Need to chop out a few bits from the other side befor it goes to the gritblasters (no doubt I will find a few more holes to patch) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rampant rivet Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Hi Richard I have a spare drivers side floor access panel if you need one, pm me a list of the other parts you're looking for, can't remember what they all were. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted September 17, 2017 Author Share Posted September 17, 2017 Thanks Jeremy, will be in contact shortly Bit more progress.... Front spring on (must sort out colour asap) and bit of cleaning of the block (primarily all the water ways, which were rather clogged up) Starting on the hubs this week.... Target is a rolling chassis (hopefully braked) by Chrismas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rampant rivet Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 Great progress Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 Hi landrover nick sent me a link to this :thumbsup::thanx: https://www.awm.gov.au/collection/F05257/ which is also available on youtube Take a look, it shows how to use the pumps and filters etc on an MWC (just got to crack on and find the pumps and filters) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 Most of the work done on the drums On the rear drums, I just had to replace one bearing and the oil seals. It took some time to get the outer bearing out as the only way to tap it out is to remove the inner bearing, then remove all the studs so you can gain access to the outer bearing, I made up a few semi-circular drifts to tap (actually al lot of BFI) to get the cone out). Luckily my local bearing supplier had an original SKEF NOS one in stock at a sensible price One of the front hubs ideally needs its bearings changed, but I won't do this until I have found replacement ones at a sensible price. Both fronts are awaiting new oil seals befor they are re-assembles and packed with greae. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 Hi Just a quick update, rearranged things in the 'shed' to gain better access sorting out brakes, when I got the vehicle there were no brake pipes present, I think I know where the back ones go, but not sure where the front ones go. Would be useful to have a couple of photos of pipe connections to the master cylinder and where the two front barkae pipes joun and how they get to the master cylinder. Engine also fully stripped down, colleced a set of piston at Dallas Digout today, as well as finding a nice rear engine drain tap and other odds and sods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cordenj Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 Hi Richard, Good to catch up today. I mentioned driving an MWC in France this summer and here are some photos of the filters and pumps for reference 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 Thanks for posting the filter and pump photos very useful, I need to replicate these on the D15T at some stage. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goanna Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 22 minutes ago, Pete Ashby said: Thanks for posting the filter and pump photos very useful, I need to replicate these on the D15T at some stage. Pete Yes nice pics. Can somebody measure the basic dimensions of the filters ? Diameter and height . Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted October 19, 2017 Author Share Posted October 19, 2017 I am considering re-manufacturing the pumps and filters, for this I would need to borrow a filter and a pump. The top cap of the filter is brass and would have to be cast; the casting is a bit tricky as there are internal waterways in the topcap. The pump (I believe) is also brass, the machining of this and the internal mechanism could prove a bit difficult. I may be luck and find the pumps and filters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 Started on the brakes, still unsure of the routing of the pipes on the front, a photo of this would be good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goanna Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 On Thursday, October 19, 2017 at 5:56 AM, 64EK26 said: I am considering re-manufacturing the pumps and filters, for this I would need to borrow a filter and a pump. The top cap of the filter is brass and would have to be cast; the casting is a bit tricky as there are internal waterways in the topcap. The pump (I believe) is also brass, the machining of this and the internal mechanism could prove a bit difficult. I may be luck and find the pumps and filters. Maybe we can work on this together as a project. re-manufacturing in brass would be a expensive way to do it . If it's for looks only, and not a operating filter, I would machine the filter body out of aluminium, once painted, nobody will notice any difference. If you can provide me with good drawings or good detailed photos of the original filter , I will make the filters , and make two extras for you . You could make a mold from an original lid and cast the lids with a modern epoxy and finish off in a lathe or whatever MW Bedfords are scarce over here, I've only ever seen three myself in 40 years , two rusted out relics beyond help and one complete nice original truck , but I know of at least 5 others . Nobody has restored one over here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover nick Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 Richard i have had a look through the restoration file photos for my MWR thinking there may be some photos of the front brake lines taken during the strip down but i have only found one of the master cylinder and pipe layout the other attached scan comes from one of the late production workshop manuals and gives a good idea of the layout of the brake line i think by the time they built your truck the hydraulic pressure switch for the brake lights would have been deleted (Chassis number 39692 stop lamp isolator switch deleted, hydraulic stop lamp switch not fitted after this chassis number) i am not sure if the spare port in the three way tee was just blanked off with a plug or you will need to find a four port tee to fit your brake light switch into hope this helps Nicky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 Hi Nicky, A mechanical switch with a tension spring attached to the brake push rod is easiest and most reliable method, I have been fitting these for years on restorations where a fluid switch was not fitted. Lucas made a very robust one and you can actually clean the contacts on them, they rarely fail .. and are still available. regards, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earlymb Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 Never thought I'd see 'Lucas' and 'they rarely fail' in the same sentence! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 4 minutes ago, earlymb said: Never thought I'd see 'Lucas' and 'they rarely fail' in the same sentence! I have been working on Lucas equipped vehicles of all types for 50 years, and get very annoyed at the deriding of Lucas products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 Hi Thanks for the photo, and thoughts on brake lights.... There should be a 4 way, hydraulic union attached to the offside of a cross member. I don't have this, neither can I find one (have searched but all I come up with is 3/8 UNF not 1/2 UNF). Will try Chris Morter and Norman Aish in the morning I do have a spare three way connector that is the same as the rear one, I could use this but would prefer to use a 4 way and hydrauilc switch . If I cannot get a 4 way one I will have to go down the mechanical route (Richard F , what is the lucas part number for the switch you use ?) Had a look at the steering column today .... All apart as the action wasn't smooth, felt like failed bearings, the one in the top of the column needs replacing as well as the one at the bottom of the box. Someone in the past tried to change the bearing on this !!!! The race was also mangled, looks like someone put the bearing on with a club hammer. Hopefully I shoul be able to get replacement bearings, might have a bit of difficulty remoing the old one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 1 hour ago, 64EK26 said: If I cannot get a 4 way one I will have to go down the mechanical route (Richard F , what is the lucas part number for the switch you use ?) Hi, Here is a link to one of the switches I referred to, it is a pattern of a Lucas switch, very robust and little to go wrong with them. just fit a small tension spring to it and a clip around the brake rod. Position the switch close to the rod so that it get as straight a pull as possible. https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/846-brake-switch-31281 Lucas number is 31281 cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted November 3, 2017 Author Share Posted November 3, 2017 I managed to get a 4 way connector from Chris Morter, now fitted and all brakes now working I hope I have the piping at the front correct and that it won't interfere with anything For the bearing on the brake pedal, I used two small needle rollers instead of the 21 (1/8" diameter) roll pins as oly 20 were fitted in mine and most of these had seen better days. Handbrake next on list. I have also replaced the bearing on the end of the steering colum, and got some new ball bearings for the bearing at the top of the steering column. I should get this finished next week. I will have to 'bite the bullet' soon and get some tyres. I think I will end up using Petlas, however these are a bit difficult to fit on British rims and may require shaving. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatchFuzee Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 On 19/10/2017 at 9:14 AM, goanna said: Yes nice pics. Can somebody measure the basic dimensions of the filters ? Diameter and height . Thanks If you only need non-working filters, have you seen this and the previous pages? http://hmvf.co.uk/topic/20590-ww2-20cwt-water-trailerbowser-restoration/?page=9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy1960 Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 Hi ..looking good..are all the brake fittings new ..pipes and ferrules? If so where did you buy these from please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted November 16, 2017 Author Share Posted November 16, 2017 Hi Firstly, thanks "Matchfuze" I have seen that thread, currently concentrating on getting a running vehicle (I has to be ready for Normandy 2019) Andy Brake pipe off eBay: Sealey Brake Pipe Seamless Tube Cupro-Nickel 22 Gauge 5/16" x 25ft BS EN 12449 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Brake-Pipe-Seamless-Tube-Cupro-Nickel-22-Gauge-5-16-x-25ft-BS-EN-12449/142137769570?epid=1169089782&hash=item2118123e62:g:2dwAAOSw42JZFPhV I used Cupro Nickel as it doesn't work harden as quickly as copper so it is easier to reform bends (for bends use a small pipe bending tool) The female brake pipe nuts; 8104 FEMALE BRAKE PIPE NUTS UNF 1/2" x 20TPI FOR 5/16" 8M (they are much better than the photo shows http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8104-FEMALE-BRAKE-PIPE-NUTS-UNF-1-2-x-20TPI-FOR-5-16-8MM-FUEL-BRAKE-PIPE-x-10/360573887967?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Pipe ends flared with Sykes-Pickavent Brake pipe flarer (trying to flare these with a cheap flaring tool is a non starter) Banjo's on rear were reused (but with new copper washers) New 1/2" unf bleed screws for rear cylinders from PastParts Just found out the routing at the front is not quite correct, so will re-do this Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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