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My first Landrover Restoration.


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  • 2 weeks later...

After the engine ran, stripped off starter, rad. etc. to refurbish parts clean up and paint. Very lucky with the thermostat bolts. took over half hour to remove but none sheared off. A light tap on each, slight ease to tighten , tap, slight ease to loosen. Slowly but surely all three came out. Thermostat!! had to be chiseled out.

Job done.

Last Sat. More parts!!! Gear oil,brake light switch, temp senders (finding all such parts are falling apart with great ease.)

Complete exhaust system, head heater tap and two fuel tanks.

Parts man gave me a good deal on the two as one has a slight prob. with the filler neck. They are B.part. To me they look a very well made tank, good side panel pressings and bottom plate. Certainly as heavy as a origional.

 

Total cost of parts, £345.10

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Thought you may want to see a couple of pics. of the tanks.

 

The head heater tap (told origional ones are getting difficult to obtain, had last one. Has a gland nut that can be tightened if it starts to leak.) as you may know can not be fitted with the rocker cover on. Good job I desided to do. Chance to check tappets. Bent push rod on No. three!! Hope it was just a stuck valve from when the seller tryed to first start it. Rockers all look very clean indeed. Any other thoughts?:shocked:

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Exhaust fitted. One fuel tank so I have a safe supply for a propper test run.

Just hope I have no prob. with the shuttle valve!! Looks ok other than slight deposit of rust and old black fluid. Need to strip and clean. (must find a post from few weeks ago)

Pics. now up to date.

Last Sunday popped to a mate who had a part scrap A/P. Picked up a spare instrument panel with the switches I'm missing, driver side door hinges, complete wiper assy and a seat tub etc., mine has been modified for a side fuel filler.Rad.cowl and ign. switch assy. Pity scrap Landi. had no tub.

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Cracking along quite nicely there.

 

The tanks don't look to bad. Drain plug differs and the side pressings are outwards rather than inwards.

But will only be visible to a rivet counter or somebody you just ran over (possibly the rivet counter):-D

 

What was the fit like on the filler cap and the strainer and the sender/pickup?

 

Am thinking of investing for the 109. Have had 2 one leaking. Then 2 none leaking and now back to one not leaking.

 

Mike

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Hi Mike. Fitting the tank. Every bolt hole lined up spot on. Sender and pick up spot on using origional screws.

Tank filter, new ex. MOD one dropped in no prob. but slightly lower and not quite so easy to lift out. Filler cap, seal spot on.

This tank has the filler neck soldered/brazed in. The other tank it has been welded in, there lies the problem. It has distorted. I was made a offer for it I could not refuse. I will get round the problem even if I have to cut the neck out and silver solder a new spare one in I have.

Believe it or not the bigest fault with tanks and caps was a new genuine L/R one still in a grease wrapper with a NSN that had been totally assembled wrong!!! Goes to show, would never fit a tank in a million years.

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On my hols. this week so hope to do a little more, note I say little. (I must have a break)

Today as a mate turned up decided to refit all the bits and pieces back on the engine and give a propper test run. Started straight up and ran for about a hour, lovley hot smell as paint, labels etc. burnt off. It ran very very well indeed with no adjustments to the carb. (put redex in the petrol) very smooth on tickover, speed pick up and at high revs.

Then the radiator sprang a leak :(.

Local dealer has a brake shuttle valve for me plus the under tub steel load ribs etc. etc. Just hope I can see the end of all the major costs of parts.

Ordered a set of copper steel brake pipes from 'Automec' I had made up my mind I did not want copper and the extra fixings required. Hope I have made the right choice. Being as the set is £104.72. Think cost me about £40 more than quotes on copper.

It looks like a lot of folks are following my restoration. So I think it's time just to say a little about my self and how I have been able to carry on with it. The costs have rocketed.

I am single and lucky my house is just about paid for. I dont go out much apart from events with my Land Rover etc. Not had a holiday as such for ????????years. Work very close to home, my job has allways paid me the minimum wage plus about 50p. My love is my hobby so all my spare time/cash is spent on it. The one I've nearly run out of!!! But I will finish the project this year as this vehicle will be my next car and at events next year.

All I will say to any one wanting to do such a restoration, just have a go but do not underestamate the cost, that is why I have been pricing as I have progressed.

Andy.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a very quick update, got quite a bit more done, but found some pitfalls!!!! More work and costs. e.g. radiator, alternator duff, bad rot in tub. etc.etc. :-( Will update later. Brake pipe kit arrived in two days. Included all retaining clips (whitch I had struggled to get out of old chassis)

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Andy that is a nice looking brake pipe set. Let us know how well the pipes form into positions. You have my vote on a more genuine material as people use copper to save costs on the rebuild or repair.

 

I remember as DLR rebuild advice article and the thing that stuck in my mind is the saying......."Land Rover didn't do them that way........"

 

Keep on sharing the knowledge and feedback on spares / costs. You did well to get a brake pressure drop valve assembly as they are getting either rare or 'Expensive'.

 

Cheers

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keep up the great work Andy. your doing a fantastic job.

 

 

Clive

Thanks Clive. Just sorted pic. or two of the front panel and work started on rear tub. Panel had a little rot, easy to cut out and repair, now primed. Rear tub. picks tell story of rot set in between steel and alloy!! I thought it would not be a bad idea to remove brackets and paint, little did I know what I would find.

Rear wiring harness now through the chassis, were able to get access and pull through no prob. with single core 2.5mm cable.

Started to rebuild brake lines.

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  • 2 weeks later...

All sorts of 'bits' done last few days. Brake pipes another story! Collected paint,thinners and have given the bulkhead another coat and few more parts. But had a lead on another tub. Very tidy except for a rear of door to sill panel removed. Deal on tub and other bits and pieces £70.

Paint NATO 2.5Lt £25. primer 1Lt and thinners £13.12. Various switches, including indicator/dip, fixings, tube etc. Shrugborough event £27.50. I have removed chassis no. from data plate in pic. of donor vehicle. Reg. for intrest.

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I really like this thread, the explanation a few pages back about your funding for the project explained a number of questions that have built up over time as I have read it.

 

For me the lightweight Land Rover or airportable or whatever you call it, was the epitomy of the British Armed Forces in the late seventies / early eighties on exercise. They were always loaded with more kit than was reasonably possible for a Pickfords pantechnicon to carry and that was before you counted the clobber in the trailer behind.

 

The sight of the cam net rolled up on top of the canvas with real branches cut from hedgerows to support it was it for me, the days when you could dig a hole and backfill it after the paperwork was done right and before everything went terribly PC with portaloos!

 

Keep up the great work and the photos and writing.

 

Robin

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I really like this thread, the explanation a few pages back about your funding for the project explained a number of questions that have built up over time as I have read it.

 

For me the lightweight Land Rover or airportable or whatever you call it, was the epitomy of the British Armed Forces in the late seventies / early eighties on exercise. They were always loaded with more kit than was reasonably possible for a Pickfords pantechnicon to carry and that was before you counted the clobber in the trailer behind.

 

The sight of the cam net rolled up on top of the canvas with real branches cut from hedgerows to support it was it for me, the days when you could dig a hole and backfill it after the paperwork was done right and before everything went terribly PC with portaloos!

 

Keep up the great work and the photos and writing.

 

Robin

 

Seconded. Quick question, and if I missed it in 17 pages, my apologies - but what is the running total standing at so far...?

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Thanks folks. To be honest not added up, think it will frighten me as I needed a new roof on the house!!!! Somthing I will do as soon as all major parts aquired. Still to go, most of the seating, brake master cylinder, front bumper, head lights, few bits and pieces. Today work done. Brake pipes fitted, bulkhead fitted :cheesy: and the loom installed. Pics to follow.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Andy that is a nice looking brake pipe set. Let us know how well the pipes form into positions. You have my vote on a more genuine material as people use copper to save costs on the rebuild or repair.

Right, quite a bit done last coulple of weeks and a bit of a set back. More on that later. The brake pipe set is now all fitted after a few replacement pipes from the supplier who have been first class and very helpfull. (Automec equipment & parts ltd.) The problem was regards pipe lengths for a Airportable and the options regards the master cylinder and brake shuttle valve. The pipes them selves worked well but a pipe bender is a must for the tighter radius. Fist bender a friend bought me was cheep but could not do a tight enough curve (£6) The one I bought was easier to use and forms a tighter bend (£12) I used all the same spacing for support clamps as was used on old chassis. All unions etc fitted a treat. Must admit pleased I went for the nickle set.

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Just a quick catch up. Most of the major parts now fitted to the bulkhead, steering box, brake/clutch pedal etc. Throttle linkage all sorted. Still not looking forward to the rewire of dash etc. inspite of having 54HG12 to refer to and old loom all tagged up. Picked up at Tern valley event, new Lucas 6RA relay (just in case) £3. UNF boxed NATO nuts/bolts, washers (sizes I had been struggling with) £6. 5Lt Ankor wax, £20. In one or two of my pics. you can see where I have sprayed the bulkhead with the wax between the components.

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Last quick note. Yesterday I had promised myself to drive the Landi. up and down my drive (even without brakes!) to test/ check the transmission worked. Fist we jacked the vehicle up on four axle stands just in case. Started up, engaged first, declutched, BANG!!! Turns out all gears engaged, drove well and transmission quiet, allthough a 'knock' could be felt through the gear lever. All except that when first and second engaged and clutch released there is this awefull bang. Thought all was going too well. A friend turned up with His son who had ridden in this Landi. twelve or so years ago and remembers there was a problem with the gearbox. No further ado tonight the box is out, and the gearbox split from the trans. box. No metal at all found in the bottom, oil had been renewed though. Sure enough a great deal of play/backlash is between the input shaft and output. Hope to find fault tomorrow, then decide if to repair, but tonight a good used box may have been found.

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fair play mate....

.............by the look of the photos that is some kinda proper restoration going down there.......

.......in fact it's not a restoration..it's an absolute and entirely complete reconstruction...

and to a way higher standard than it ever came out of Soilihull with......

..respect !

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