Ex-boy Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Thank you Steve That is very kind of you and yes please we would love to have them. I will send you a PM with my address. Thanks Tim No probs Tim, they will be in the post tomorrow. I tried to reply to your PM but I'm not good with the system, so came back to what I understand. No payment needed, as I'm just pleased that they will have a new life and do what they were intended for, and I've learned a bit more into the bargain. Regards, Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 Thanks Steve That is very kind of you. Best regards Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted March 19, 2016 Author Share Posted March 19, 2016 I had a bit of spare time today so selected the best of the three side lamps and gave it a wire brushing: I was quite pleased with the end result: Just needs a bit more tidying up then I will put it in primer and start on the next one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 Several minor tasks were completed over the Easter Weekend and reports on all will follow and one of them was the stripping down of the Scuttle in readiness for sand-blasting. The scuttle was still attached to the half chassis from North Wales, recovered by the late Mike Jones many years ago. Many re-useable fittings were still attached to it – including the remains of the front bracket which holds the supporting brace between the scuttle and radiator. One of the two main parts of that was broken but leaving sufficient information to make a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 Another of the jobs undertaken over Easter whilst the full team was in Devon was the removal of the Diff from the Back Axle. We could see that the three arms of the “Fork for the universal coupling on the worm shaft” had been broken off or removed and in its place a disc with similarly placed bolting holes had been substantially welded on to the remains of the original spline. More pattern making to be undertaken so that we can replace that with a replica of the original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 The cap over the worm shaft bearing was removed to reveal the bearing – all looked good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 The diff assembly was then lifted out of the case and laid on the ground. It was all beautifully oily and looked to be quite sound! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 The assembly was then washed down with paraffin when it became quite free so that it could be turned quite smoothly, just by hand. Hopefully, there will be little to be done to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 (edited) Followers of this thread may remember Posting No. 2025 dated the 30th December last where we mentioned excessive end float on one of the then newly mounted back wheels. The general opinion was that whilst one wheel had a satisfactory end float of about 1/16”, the spacer on the other wheel was not thick enough to reduce a much higher end float to something acceptable. So we were resolved to obtain another piece of bronze to make a “fatter” spacer to take up some of the excess so that it could be reduced to about a 1/16” as well. But it was shortly after, we started work on the axle that Mike kindly sent us from NZ to find that the spacers were still on that one and lo and behold, one of those was just the correct thickness. So the wheel came off again last weekend and the spacers were substituted and the end float was checked out with a D.T.I and then found to be satisfactory! The wheels are very heavy to move around and although not very clear in the pictures, our friend Mark H made up a stout wooden trolley with caster wheels on each corner, which could take the weight and size of the wheel so that the wheel could easily be slid on and off the axle end without any danger of damaging the bronze bearing. A simple but effective idea! Edited April 2, 2016 by Minesweeper spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 That diff was built to last, wasn't it? When you get the scuttle mounted it would be nice to roll the whole thing outside one sunny day for progress photograph please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeePig Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 The wheels are very heavy to move around and although not very clear in the pictures, our friend Mark H made up a stout wooden trolley with caster wheels on each corner, which could take the weight and size of the wheel so that the wheel could easily be slid on and off the axle end without any danger of damaging the bronze bush. A simple but effective idea! When I was a mechanic all we had was a steel sheet offcut that we kept well greased so we could place it on the ground under the hub, rolled the wheel onto it and the slid the wheel onto the hub. trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 When I was a mechanic all we had was a steel sheet offcut that we kept well greased so we could place it on the ground under the hub, rolled the wheel onto it and the slid the wheel onto the hub. But I imagine you were doing this in the era of detachable wheels and pneumatic tyres? I wouldn't want to bet that a double solid-tyred wheel weighs more than a modern truck wheel (I can imagine that those are very heavy) but the game here is sliding the wheel onto the bearing without damaging the bearing. And they are certainly quite heavy enough in the case of a Sankey disc wheel. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeePig Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Yes, generally the largest wheels were on a Bedford TK, but it made me wonder how people managed in the past with heavy wheels. trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asciidv Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 As Andy has just said, removing and fitting solid tyred rear wheels like those on a Dennis 'N' Type is just impossible to do single handedly. Although a lot more expensive than some wood and four castors I bought this to be able to do the job by myself. It does give the benefit of adjustable height and after struggling for years in the past I now don't know how I would do without it. Barry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8_10 Brass Cleaner Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 This is how we do it on the steam tractor. On a steam roller on steel tyred wheels, you simply use a greased plate and bars, with a little help from the jack. 5 minute job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted April 2, 2016 Author Share Posted April 2, 2016 The top and bottom brass plates for the Radiator core have been beautifully and very kindly machined up for us by Barry H and they are now ready for the next stage of the Radiator construction – using them as templates to drill the holes for the clearance bolts in both tanks and for the tapping holes for some studs in the bottom tank only. The second of these three pictures show one plate on top of the other! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted April 2, 2016 Author Share Posted April 2, 2016 These four pictures show the lower plate and bottom tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asciidv Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Steve is saving up his pocket money to buy one of these; FhfWV-ikloUo6lwugyHE5vKM9d0mrd9afZM9FWZW-02CS-hejK No need to ever go to the sandblasters again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Very impressive - rather looks like something from "Star Wars"! No visible debris? And can this be a dangerous weapon? Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 No visible debris? I think anything with low conductivity is just vapourised. And can this be a dangerous weapon? Yes, but then it would be quite possible to wire-brush someone to death too. I would anticipate that the optics are set up to have a divergent beam so that intensity falls off quickly with distance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redherring Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Uttterly amazing! Does it work on a variety of metals? What about non-metals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeePig Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 OK, I just have to ask, what about wood and concrete? trev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Uttterly amazing! Does it work on a variety of metals? What about non-metals? Very off-topic but here is the company website http://www.cleanlaser.de/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted April 24, 2016 Author Share Posted April 24, 2016 On posting No. 2104 dated the 29th March, we showed some pictures of the Scuttle - as discovered – this has now been stripped down and separated from the constituent parts that were still attached to it – and sand blasted. The large “U” shape Bonnet Rest that is attached to the Scuttle is not directly attached to the Scuttle face to face but there are four shaped wooden parts that go between the two. As always, we like to use original parts as far as possible and whilst it would be easy to replace the four with modern wood, we cleaned up the original parts, filled the worst of the dips and hollows as they were inclined to be just a little sad but that they will now live to fight again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted April 24, 2016 Author Share Posted April 24, 2016 As usual, the metal parts were given two coats of Bonda Primer, two coats of undercoat and two coats of the finished matt colour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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