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WW1 Thornycroft restoration


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Bonnet Rest that is attached to the Scuttle is not directly attached to the Scuttle face to face but there are four shaped wooden parts that go between the two.

 

I wonder why? Perhaps simply so the bonnet doesn't rub the scuttle when lifted? Otherwise it seems somewhat pointless.

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Do you have any secret technique to prevent the paint from running through the holes on panels creating drips/runs on the other side? On the scuttle which is absolutely full of holes there not a single trace of a run!

 

 

I can imagine that this is a question that will set off another flood of answers and tips and I am sure that they will all be welcomed as we all face the same problem. It will be interesting to know what others do!

 

Quite simply, what I do is to be as careful as I can - but also stick a small piece of masking tape over the hole on the opposite side. So should any paint go through then it can be removed when the tape is taken off - obviously take the tape off quite quickly before the paint dries.

 

Tony

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The first thing that we wanted to do, this time was to mount the Scuttle but with the unavoidable absence of Tim, we enlisted the help of our willing neighbour, Rick who was pleased to supply the extra pair of hands that were required for this exercise! The scuttle was lifted into position and we were very pleased to find that the holes for the securing bolts in the scuttle lined up beautifully with the existing holes for them in the chassis – bear in mind that the scuttle came from a different chassis altogether and that these two assemblies had never been together before.

 

However, we found that the Scuttle was sitting a 1/2” too low and that packing blocks were needed to get it up to the correct height. Some hard wood was cut and planed and two pieces of that inserted did the job. It did occur to us as soon as this was done – and now knowing the way and method that Thornycroft worked all those years ago, it was probably originally erected with similar packing blocks inserted when it was first assembled.

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With the Scuttle mounted and out of the way, we then turned to the Radiator. The Brass Plates were used as templates to drill clearance holes for the bolts in both tanks and also some tapping holes for studs in the bottom tank. The top tank was a most awkward thing to hold but a simple wooden stand made up for that job helped considerably

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After drilling the holes from the Brass Plates “Jigs” in the two tanks, the next job was to locate and temporarily attach the Radiator side castings – these will be needed there to identify the correct final spacing between the two brass plates when the soldering stage is reached. A couple of the Gills were slipped on to one tube and inserted into the lower brass plate, just as a trial just to ensure that all spacing and clearances were satisfactory.

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Putting the Gills on the Tubes – 125 Tubes with 150 Gills per tube! We got well into that and the whole assembly with Gills on the Tubes are now back in Leicester and will go back to the nearby supplying company to be soldered together.

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The Radiator castings still have to be cleaned up externally as they are still in the “as received” external state from the Foundry. Many marks to be taken out of them before the Radiator is painted – not a shiny radiator as with the Dennis but this one will be painted.

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Just wanted to say to the Devon team to keep at it....definite progress being made and great to see

 

I`m currently on with a few projects of my own...nothing military...just some Petter & Lister diesels that I`m restoring

 

 

 

I may start a thread on em in non-topics

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Will it be dipped or will it be a "Wave Solder Dip"?

 

I sometimes do Wave dipping on PCB's

 

To be honest, I don't know! I will take some photos if I get the opportunity but I am going to leave the bits with them to do for us. This is too high a value component for me to risk just trying to work out how to do it the hard way!

 

Many thanks for the encouragement. We have had a very slow patch due to trying to build my motor house for the Dennis. Fortunately, Dad has been able to keep things going and I only need to apply one more coat of paint to the doors now before I can get back onto lorries. The end is in sight!

 

Steve

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This is just a small job that had to be done and is now completed and out of the way! With the completion of the Radiator getting ever closer, the Anchor Bracket assembly for it on the Scuttle will be required as soon as we mount the Radiator to steady the Radiator and hold it in the correct position.

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When we started work on the Scuttle, we found that the original Anchor Bracket and Jaw End for the Tie Rod from Scuttle to the Radiator were still on it, but after we took it off and cleaned it up, we found that the Bracket was broken – so a replacement had to be made. The Jaw End still had the remains of the original Tie Rod in it which protected the thread and after this was removed, we decided that it was in good enough condition to use again.

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image.jpg

 

Isn't this just a beautiful little part! Easy to make on a CNC milling machine but on a manual machine it is a work of art. The radii are perfect and all the edges are absolutely square. Surface finish is perfect too. Definitely 11 out of 10 for this.

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[ATTACH=CONFIG]114873[/ATTACH]

 

Isn't this just a beautiful little part! ... The radii are perfect and all the edges are absolutely square. Surface finish is perfect too. Definitely 11 out of 10 for this.

 

Well, yes and no. I'd agree 11 out of 10 for making it, but if you have a look at the original casting it's clear that the radii were never perfect and the edges were never square. The original casting looks to have been spot-faced to a different depth on each side, and you can see the centre hole wasn't really drilled exactly in the centre. This new part is just a bit too good.

 

The crew have put a huge amount of time and effort into this truck ( I think Dennis was up and running about page 100, Thor is now at page 215 ... ) and clearly have decided to leave original pitted surfaces on many components rather than go for perfect factory finishes.

 

The down side is that a perfectly produced well finished new component is just that bit more obvious. Of course you could just throw it in a cement mixer with a bunch of steel scrap for an hour or two, then leave it outside in vinegar for a month, followed by a heavy grit blast, but the balance between new and old has to be managed by the restorers that are actually doing the job.

 

Any comments on your logic for showing / hiding component age, chaps?

 

Any idea if the radiator end stay rod mount is the same / similar?

Edited by Gordon_M
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I think that you are over thinking this chaps.

 

We have never been approached by anyone saying "That part is not original", or "That bit is a Dennis, Leyland, Ford, Willys, Hotchkiss etc". I would like to think that anyone who noticed the parts that had been made would realise that we had made them to return the truck back to its original condition. We are not trying to pretend that the truck is all original, but we are saying that we have done everything we can to make it look like it had done when it was used by the W^D.

 

Look at it like this. If the original bracket was perfect and our replacement looked as poorly made as the actual original does then I am sure we would be having a different conversation or no conversation at all.

 

Green? Brown? Service colour? All of those descriptions are fine by me.

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