Old Bill Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 would the fronts have been faced off originally? The original ones are faced to width. I was very annoyed to break one when we took it all apart! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Steve, the brake rings look great. The old lathe is interesting, no tailstock and the toolpost looks as though it belongs on a capstan lathe; presumably it was intended to do a simular job as you have done on the brake rings with repeatable accuracy on large batch machining. John There are locations for a long bed to be attached to the end of the lathe. I don't know whether this one had the bed and it has been lost at some time or it simply never had it as it had been purchased for a specific job. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flandersflyer Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Steve, the brake rings look great. The old lathe is interesting, no tailstock and the toolpost looks as though it belongs on a capstan lathe; presumably it was intended to do a simular job as you have done on the brake rings with repeatable accuracy on large batch machining. John caus its a facing & boring lathe...for swinging large billets... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 The main job in hand at the moment is to prepare the back axle for hanging – when we turned our attention to it earlier this month to prepare it for cleaning, we found that there were several bits on it that needed to come off first of all. Two of these (one each side) were the Fulcrum Pins for the Brake Shoes. They were heavily rusted and not fit to be used again. They simply screw into the “extended upwards arms” being part of the axle case – 7/8” Whit thread. Not unexpectedly, they did not want to move so as usual in this sort of case, some heat was applied – and then they were really leaned on with a socket with an extended arm – and that did the trick. They are also used as one of the fixing points for the Dust Shields for the Brake Drums – but you will see from the picture of one that there is very little left of Shields so new ones of those will have to be made as well. Blanks will be laser cut first of all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 The two new Fulcrum Pins have been machined and screw cut from 1 1/2” A/F hex steel bar, back to back in the lathe, and then separated when the machining of both has been completed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 Fulcrum Pins – old and new! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 The 7/8” Whit threads in the arms were cleaned out with a Tap and the new Pins were trial-fitted – all OK. They cannot be finally fitted just yet with other parts still to make or complete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_bish Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Cracking engineering as usual. Must take years to hone these skills! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nz2 Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 The 7/8” Whit threads in the arms were cleaned out with a Tap and the new Pins were trial-fitted – all OK. They cannot be finally fitted just yet with other parts still to make or complete. Was there a photo with this posting? Lately I've not seen many photos of your work, or is it a computer problem from this end. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeePig Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 I can see plenty of pictures at this end, do you think maybe your browser cache needs a flush? trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Progress seems to have slowed a bit recently as I have had to get a boiler test for my engine and sort out a deranged gearbox in the car. In between times, I have been earning a living. There is always something needs doing! Anyway, a few more bits to look at. Firstly, the wheel bearings are lubricated with grease using Stauffers mounted on extensions screwed into the wheel hubs. We have six fronts and one rear of course! I have, therefore, turned up a second extension piece for a rear hub. The next item we have spoken about is the track rod end and how it tightens on the ball joint when fully screwed down. I had planned to lap a couple of thou out of the cover to give clearance but in the end, cut a shim from a piece of 0.003" steel which I happened to find in a drawer. We will try that and see how it goes. I am sure that 0.003" clearance will not be noticeable. Whilst rummaging in the back of the garage, we turned up a radiator mount and the beginnings of a second which had been started and then given to us by the chap who did the Hampshire Museum's military J originally. He turned up a better pair so these became surplus. The casting is tired but usable. The steel parts were intended to form a fabricated version for the other side so that one just needed finishing off. I started by setting up a fly-cutter to the correct radius and then used it to bore the curve in a piece of angle. Then it was square the ends up with a mill. and file up the profile. I put the tube in the lathe to barrel it slightly to more closely mimic the original casting. I cut a wedge to go underneath the tube and drilled and tapped a hole for a bolt to hold the job together whilst welding. As you know, welding is not my greatest skill but this lot would embarrass a pigeon! I should have asked a friend to do it but it really annoys me that I can't seem to get the hang of it! Fortunately, a good file and some filler hides a multitude of sins! All ready for a topcoat and fitting. We won't need them for quite a while but I just felt like doing them! Steve :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flandersflyer Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Progress seems to have slowed a bit recently as I have had to get a boiler test for my engine and sort out a deranged gearbox in the car. In between times, I have been earning a living. There is always something needs doing! Anyway, a few more bits to look at. Firstly, the wheel bearings are lubricated with grease using Stauffers mounted on extensions screwed into the wheel hubs. We have six fronts and one rear of course! I have, therefore, turned up a second extension piece for a rear hub. [ATTACH=CONFIG]103815[/ATTACH] The next item we have spoken about is the track rod end and how it tightens on the ball joint when fully screwed down. I had planned to lap a couple of thou out of the cover to give clearance but in the end, cut a shim from a piece of 0.003" steel which I happened to find in a drawer. We will try that and see how it goes. I am sure that 0.003" clearance will not be noticeable. [ATTACH=CONFIG]103817[/ATTACH] Whilst rummaging in the back of the garage, we turned up a radiator mount and the beginnings of a second which had been started and then given to us by the chap who did the Hampshire Museum's military J originally. He turned up a better pair so these became surplus. The casting is tired but usable. The steel parts were intended to form a fabricated version for the other side so that one just needed finishing off. [ATTACH=CONFIG]103816[/ATTACH] I started by setting up a fly-cutter to the correct radius and then used it to bore the curve in a piece of angle. [ATTACH=CONFIG]103818[/ATTACH] Then it was square the ends up with a mill. [ATTACH=CONFIG]103819[/ATTACH] and file up the profile. [ATTACH=CONFIG]103820[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]103821[/ATTACH] I put the tube in the lathe to barrel it slightly to more closely mimic the original casting. [ATTACH=CONFIG]103822[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]103823[/ATTACH] I cut a wedge to go underneath the tube and drilled and tapped a hole for a bolt to hold the job together whilst welding. [ATTACH=CONFIG]103824[/ATTACH] As you know, welding is not my greatest skill but this lot would embarrass a pigeon! I should have asked a friend to do it but it really annoys me that I can't seem to get the hang of it! [ATTACH=CONFIG]103825[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]103826[/ATTACH] Fortunately, a good file and some filler hides a multitude of sins! [ATTACH=CONFIG]103827[/ATTACH] All ready for a topcoat and fitting. [ATTACH=CONFIG]103828[/ATTACH] We won't need them for quite a while but I just felt like doing them! Steve :-) I`ll tell you what Steve.. your doing really will to get any kind of dimensions of what you`v had in regards to original parts (or whats left of em)... i can imagine it being a real pain taking a measurement...then getting things `size` sometimes here... and its coming along well by the way.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 As you know, welding is not my greatest skill but this lot would embarrass a pigeon! I should have asked a friend to do it but it really annoys me that I can't seem to get the hang of it! I would disagree with you,if you were wrong :-) I suspect that you are watching the slag and not the weld pool underneath, but I am not a trained welder either. I wonder if it is worth looking for a night-school course or similar? Perhaps it is worth doing some experiments with scrap to get a feel for what each process variable does. I think that your welds above are what you get when you have the arc-gap too big and move the rod too fast. But as I say, I am not that much better than you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mammoth Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 time to give in and get a mig welder (not gasless) and you won't look back. The other factor often ignored, especially when youth is behind us, is how our eyes work at that particular focal length. eg For welding I use the specs that I got specially for computer work as my regular (outdoor) ones were no good at that focal length.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 The other factor often ignored, especially when youth is behind us, is how our eyes work at that particular focal length. That's a good point. I can barely see well enough to TIG any more. I found that getting a new mask with a bigger window and variable shade helped a lot. I really can't say why that was, but there is something about a bigger field of view that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asciidv Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 (edited) Mammoth suggested getting a MIG welder, however the true answer is buy a TIG set. TIG is just so incredibly flexible being able to produce superb welds in steel, aluminium and even metals such as copper. Although relatively expensive and with the need for argon at all times having used one once you would never go back to anything else. Barry. Edited May 1, 2015 by Asciidv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flandersflyer Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 I would disagree with you,if you were wrong :-) I suspect that you are watching the slag and not the weld pool underneath, but I am not a trained welder either. I wonder if it is worth looking for a night-school course or similar? Perhaps it is worth doing some experiments with scrap to get a feel for what each process variable does. I think that your welds above are what you get when you have the arc-gap too big and move the rod too fast. But as I say, I am not that much better than you. He might be as well using iron powder rods for some of the heavier stuff. and you dont need a heated quiver with em either....you can just set the plant up on low amps...then stab the rod onto some scrap...that`l warm it up... we used to get some portugese powder rods that struck lovely...and lay`d in a lovely fillet.... ESAB powder rods tend to conk out half way down if they`r not pre-heated.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flandersflyer Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 Mammoth suggested getting a MIG welder, however the true answer is buy a TIG set. TIG is just so incredibly flexible being able to produce superb welds in steel, aluminium and even metals such as copper. Although relatively expensive and with the need for argon at all times having used one once you would never go back to anything else. Barry. no..it isn`t. you need really clean metal for argon.... MIG will burn through most of the kind of surface contamination he can expect with what he`s working on. An argon set would be good for the tinwork....as its a very localised heat which wont distort sheet materials when doing long runs....either that or stitch it with the MIG plant... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeePig Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 Could the problem simply be hand technique? It might be useful to spend an hour or two with an expert welder to see where the issues lies. trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 I have had some lessons in welding but I am still dreadful. We have reached the conclusion that I am so poor because I can't see. My eyesight has never been very special but now I am suffering from short-arm-syndrome as well and have varifocals so really, I am on a loser. The best way to get a good weld is to get someone who can, to do it for me! I am very fortunate in having a number of friends who will do it when needed. It still irks that there is a manufacturing skill which I can't do to an acceptable standard though! I was fortunate to go down to Devon this weekend so I took the opportunity to dig out the radiator bottom tank and see if it fitted our new bracket. A quick bit of attention to the spigots with a file and the brackets fit OK. Even the bolt holes line up with those in the chassis. The casting needs a little dressing back at the ends as the mounts are slightly too far apart but that won't take long once we get into the radiator properly. Now is not the time to get too diverted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 My eyesight has never been very special but now I am suffering from short-arm-syndrome as well and have varifocals so really, I am on a loser. It might be worth getting some welding glasses. They would be useful for other close-up work too. Maybe get them in safety-glasses style to kill two birds with one stone. I am still in denial about my eyesight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mammoth Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 I have been building (over-engineered) cattle yards which involved saw cutting 4" pipes on the vertical mill to take 60mm pipe. When the hole saw lost teeth I thought I would try my new toy - 40 amp Chinese plasma cutter - for the first time. Drew a circle with white marker pen, auto welding mask on 'grind' setting. Even free hand the holes are very acceptable, and if not quite big enough the edge of the cut can be shaved off. What took heaps of set up time, and five mins of cutting now takes 30 seconds! After mig welding the joint is every bit as good. A revelation and not buying another hole saw for this job. So for challenged eyesight ( and my stick welding looks exactly like the previous pictures), after the mig welder a plasma cutter is highly recommended for the Gosling workshop to achieve the recreation of imitation castings and run of the mill steel fabrication. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Hi Mammoth. I have seen plasma cutters used at work and they are wonderful bits of kit. Worth a good looking at I think. Many thanks for the tip-off. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 It still irks that there is a manufacturing skill which I can't do to an acceptable standard though! I know the feeling... I inspect welds all the time as part of my job, but can't weld at all! Mind you it is funny when at times you know more about a weld than the welder. I have a standard welder (brand new) and a TIG machine. I keep saying I want to do some TIG practice as to me the process appears similar to silver soldering or brazing where the filler, if required is dabbed in. I will have to have a play next weekend. At about 4.31 it shows the filler going in [video=youtube;aq-rIpiY-y0] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 As always, we just cannot give the project the hours we want to and progress is slow. Our deadline of May 2018 seems a way away but it is going to creep up on us very quickly and I predict a race to the finish line! Anyway, we have done a little. Last time I was down, we tried the brake drums on the rear of the wheels. After clearing the paint and rust from the locating blocks, they simply dropped in with a thump from the mallet to push them home. Very satisfying! The first one did rock a bit so I blued the rear face and rotated it to try to find the high spots. These were dressed off with careful use of the angle grinder. The next task was to mark the bolt holes. To do this, Dad turned up a transfer punch from Silver Steel (Drill Rod to our colonial cousins) and hardened it. This was placed in the holes from the back and gently tapped with a small hammer. The effect was to leave a faint centre pop which could be enlarged and then drilled through. A straightforward set-up on the drilling machine and the drums could be loosely bolted up. I am currently making up a spot-facing tool so that the bolt heads will sit flat and can be done up properly. The wheels will then be ready to fit. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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