Asciidv Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Tony, How did you retain the new threaded section in the old pin body? Do you believe in 'Loctite' or do you always prefer a mechanical solution more matching the period of the vehicle? Barry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Tony, How did you retain the new threaded section in the old pin body? Do you believe in 'Loctite' or do you always prefer a mechanical solution more matching the period of the vehicle? Barry. It was silver-soldered in - see Posting No. 1616 dated Christmas Day 2014! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Suslowicz Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 That made me laugh! We have a 7 1/4" Gauge Railway in the Garden - runs just past the workshop door so it does get caught up in one or two pictures from time to time! Tony Unfortunately I was at work and unable to comment, otherwise there would have been a long explanation of how everything was constructed at a scale of two feet to the inch before being reduced by their secret shrink-ray and assembled. How else do you expect them to get the fit & finish that they consistently demonstrate? Far too late now, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 The heads on these stock ones seem to be too big – these are the only ones that we have at present and they are not long enough – should be 2” and these are 1 1/2" Machining the angled underside of the heads might solve both problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted August 21, 2015 Author Share Posted August 21, 2015 The two Engine Angle Mounting Plates have now been completed and fitted satisfactorily to the chassis and await the arrival of the engine! They will have to come out again to have the four (two in each) 3/4” holes drilled for the engine fixing bolts but the engine will have to be dropped in first of all so that the holes can be accurately located in the angles from the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caddy Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Stunning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrevWringe Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 I love following your thread. Never cease to be amazed at the level of skills that you all posess and I greatly admire your dedication. Incredible! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 (edited) The Thorny “J” is fitted with brass “Tyre size plates” on the wheels – this is the same as the Dennis and probably the same on other British made lorries of the period but we cannot be sure of this. We found two sound plates for the front wheels but there were not all that many survivors of these brass plates as not only did they prove to be vulnerable to damage, they were also subject to electrolytic reaction with brass fitted hard against steel. A picture of one of our spare front wheels will show you the result of that effect with the steel that was behind the brass plate, completely gone. We managed to find one sound rear plate – the tyre size is for an 881mm wheel – the fronts are of course a different size and a picture of one of those is included for interest. The only other rear plate that we could find had been broken into two. We cleaned it up, tinned the rear and sweated it onto a piece of brass to hold the two bits together. Not as good as the complete plate but another original bit saved again. Edited August 23, 2015 by Minesweeper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted September 18, 2015 Author Share Posted September 18, 2015 Progress has been rather slow of late with Steve very much involved with the building of his new garage and with Tony looking after other obligations! Tony has now picked up the Steering bits again – we were fortunate when we obtained the Thorny chassis from under the Shepherds Hut that nearly all of the steering was still in place – the exception was the Steering Wheel as that had been cut off – taking the top part of the steering column with it! Although the other parts were still in situ, they were mainly highly rusted and wasted away so although they provided patterns they were beyond redemption. The Drag Link consists of three separate parts – the two ends were brazed to a 1 1/2” steel tube. The front part is described as the “Outer sleeve over the spring ball joint” and the rusting and wasting of this was so great in places that all of that steel had gone revealing the original brazing in some places that held the bits together. This must be replaced but the original Cap on this sleeve is good enough to use again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 (edited) The new Sleeve is machined up from a piece of 2 1/2” Diameter steel bar. It was turned down to size and first screw cut to take the cap. Edited September 19, 2015 by Great War truck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 The thread was finished off with a Chaser and a trial fit of the Cap was satisfactory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 With the revolving centre removed from the tailstock, the bar was then supported with a Steady so that it could be drilled and bored out to its final internal diameter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 The Bar was then turned around so that the other end could be drilled and bored out and a taper machined on the outside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 This pictures shows the “innards” that were recovered from the old sleeve and which can be used again – two springs and the two sliding sockets which encapsulate the ball. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 The next job was to cut out the slot through which the Ball Joint goes. This was drilled out to 3/4”first of at each end of the slot and then those holes were opened up with a Boring Head to the final diameter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted September 20, 2015 Author Share Posted September 20, 2015 The two large holes then have to be joined up to complete the slot The last job to do on this is to “plane in the 1/4” inside slot to accommodate the “pins” on the sliding sockets. It will have to go to Steve for that job as he has the tooling to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flandersflyer Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 This pictures shows the “innards” that were recovered from the old sleeve and which can be used again – two springs and the two sliding sockets which encapsulate the ball. what gets me is the amount of intricate work involved to manufacture these machines... not really appropriate to war production is it (i know they will have used jigs & turrets/capstans etc)...but... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 what gets me is the amount of intricate work involved to manufacture these machines. The track-rod ends might well have been bought-in parts. There is quite a lot of work in them, but not really much more than necessary to make a component with the required function. Nowadays they use ball-joints in that application, but there isn't that much less work in those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asciidv Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Earlier I think you said that the actual rod was just brazed into the end fittings. Are you going to repeat this process or use a more mechanically robust method? If you do braze the fittings on, will it truly be braze or your well loved silver solder? Is there any data which shows the comparative strengths between a silver soldered joint and a true brazed joint? Barry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 (edited) Earlier I think you said that the actual rod was just brazed into the end fittings. Are you going to repeat this process or use a more mechanically robust method? If you do braze the fittings on, will it truly be braze or your well loved silver solder? Is there any data which shows the comparative strengths between a silver soldered joint and a true brazed joint? Barry. We plan to braze again - we don't think that Silver Solder will be man enough for this job - and I am not sure if you can actually use Silver Solder on cast iron which is the rear fitting on the Drag Link! Experts waiting in the wings will further comment on this. Brazing will do the trick but that will require more heat that we can provide with Propane and Oxy-Acetylene now comes into the equation. We have not done anything quite like this before so another learning curve! Tony Edited September 23, 2015 by Minesweeper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Is there any data which shows the comparative strengths between a silver soldered joint and a true brazed joint? I think it depends in the silver solder. (And, to an extend, on the country you are in) There are soft-solders that contain silver, and those rather confuse matters. And some brazing alloys contain solder. To an extent the difference between brazing and silver-soldering is as much about the technique as the filler material. If you apply the rod in a fillet then it is brazing, if you allow the filler to run into the joint by capillary action then it is either brazing or silver soldering, depending on your point of view. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted September 25, 2015 Author Share Posted September 25, 2015 Turning now to the rear end of the Drag Link and the Ball Socket, you will see from these three pictures that the original Ball Socket is really beyond recovery and that we must make a replacement for this one as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted September 25, 2015 Author Share Posted September 25, 2015 The first thing to do was to make up a pattern of the rear part of the Ball Socket Case for the Foundry – fortunately we have a front part of a Case from elsewhere which will live to fight again so that we do not have to make up one of those from scratch. The new casting is shown alongside the pattern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted September 25, 2015 Author Share Posted September 25, 2015 Simple machining to deal with the new casting to get it down to 7/8” diameter! Four Jaw chuck and centre to start with – then reversed and held in a Collet Chuck to face off the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted September 25, 2015 Author Share Posted September 25, 2015 Then the shaft has to be drilled 3/4” and then bored 7/8” to take the male part of the Ball Socket. The shaft has to be slightly tapered at this end on the outside and that was machined at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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