fv1609 Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Well Jamie nobody could accuse you of not being thorough! The Tracta joint housing should be filled with a mixture of OX-320 and OEP-220. This should be pre-mixed in the ratio of 1/8 pint OX-320 to 1 pint OEP-220. Subsequent topping up should just be OEP-220. If you drain the diff hopefully there shouldn't be a sludge like that. It should just be OEP-220, but some diff failures occured as some pigs were wrongly given the Tracta joint mix in the diff. This caused pinion wheel failures, a failure like this would be indicated by a sludge similar to aluminium paint in appearance. (I know as this happened to me). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted June 3, 2009 Author Share Posted June 3, 2009 Thanks Clive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Elsdon Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 You sound like youve been busy! Its a sod of alot of lubrication when you get going isnt it! How are you glazing the screen, are you going with the MK1 solution of a frame holding glass with a seal around it, or are you going to hard fix the glass into the aperture using a rubber surround like a standard windscreen, which would certainly keep the weather out, you could really do with some hatches though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 I know Adam but it's the cost at the moment ,kinda skint in the pig fund so i'll make do with glass just and save for the hatches , as for the glass i've got a tube of windscreen fix stuff so they just be sealed in to place Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted June 12, 2009 Author Share Posted June 12, 2009 Hi all just finished my last wheel and that's the end of the weeping seals. Now I've got a problem, NO BRAKES, whilst doing each wheel,I disconnected the banjo bolt from the wheel cylinder to get a bit more slack to put the back plate out the road . On connecting the brake hose again on refitting i opened the bleed nipple,and topped up the brake fluid,allowing it to flow through , moved the pig outside yesterday to clean out the workshop and no brakes , any ideas, I've bled the whole system including the servo (i think it's the thing above the alternator) the two nipples , and cracked the banjo bolt on the thingy under the middle of the pig that moves when the brakes are pressed(master cylinder possibly) but I've got no feturn on the brake pedal, Help help help what have i done and will it be expensive?? Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swill1952xs Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 As usual I will explain that I'm not an expert on Pigs, just a mechanic of forty years. Banjo unions have a natural air pocket in them, sufficient to cause a total loss of the brake pedal after they've been disconnected. Allowing the fluid to drain through often wont clear air bubbles that will be trapped in arches in the pipes, or descending pipes. I would imagine the pipe on that would be 1/4" making it harder still to bleed an empty system. Bleeding should always start from the points nearest the master cylinder, working away to the furthest wheel. You will need someone pumping the brake pedal, another bleeding the cylinders and better still, someone to keep the master cylinder topped up. You will need a bleed pipe on the wheel cylinders immersed in brake fluid to prevent air being sucked back up the pipe when the pedal is released. Open a bleeder and get someone to pump the pedal fairly steadily (Otherwise the bleed pipe may blow off and spray fluid in your eyes.) Keep pumping until bubble free fluid comes out of the bleeder, and on the last pump, get the person pumping to hold the pedal down until the bleeder is closed. They can then, on your instruction, release the pedal. Repeat this operation for all the remaining bleed points. If the system is badly aired up, you may have to go round again to clear the last of the air. This is a standard procedure, but if in some cases the servo has a bleeder, this will be the first point of bleeding, before the wheels. Good luck, and I hope this will solve your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 Jamie just a few things to add. I carry 4 brake hose clamps, if you put one on each wheel hose, you should have brake pedal pressure. If not you know have master cylinder or servo problems. If you have good foot pressure then release each clamp in turn & see if pedal pressure goes then you can pin it down to a particular wheel. When you bleed the brakes release the brake shoe adjusters to minimise the volume inside the wheel cylinder. Remember of course to do this all with the handbrake off as that acts via linkages on the cylinders unlike some vehicles with a transmission brake. Trying to keep a bleed tube in a jam jar of fluid is very difficult as the tube usually wants to curl up. That means it keeps pulling it out of the jam jar then you put the jam jar on a block or something, then it gets knocked over. I use a plastic tube about 2 ft long or so then stuff the lower end into a small hole in the lid of one of those 1-litre plastic milk bottles. Once there is a little bit of fluid in the bottle it become much more stable & if you do knock it over you won't spill much. Obviously once bled then adjust up the brake adjusters. If you have the nut type adjust the square nut before the hexagonal nut or if you have the cog wheel type do the lower cog first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmite!! Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 & don't do what a helpfull neighbour did once when I asked him to pass the brake fluid.... he gave the can a good shake:argh: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted June 13, 2009 Author Share Posted June 13, 2009 Thank you all , guess where I'm away to boiler suit at the ready Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted June 13, 2009 Author Share Posted June 13, 2009 Brakes are back , Thanks all for your advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 Brakes are back , Thanks all for your advice So Jamie where was the problem? Any particular culprit or was it one of those problems which was little bit of this & a little bit of that all conspiring to cause the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davie Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 . Bleeding should always start from the points nearest the master cylinder, I've always done it starting at the farthest away point. Was taught that by an old bus mechanic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 . Bleeding should always start from the points nearest the master cylinder, I've always done it starting at the farthest away point. Was taught that by an old bus mechanic. The Humber book says start with the nearest, yet my Land Rover book says start from the furthest! Or is the key point to have a method to work from somewhere & avoid missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 The bubbles lots of them were right through the system , i managed to borrow one of those easy-bleed systems and got 3 liters of brake fluid , just took time , started at the servo and worked back then went back to the start , got a lot of gundge out of the system but before i did it i replaced the pressure switch for the b/ lights before hand , got two from ebay brand new old stock for £7. Jamie Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 before i did it i replaced the pressure switch for the b/ lights before hand , got two from ebay brand new old stock for £7.Jamie Yes they are nice find, I think many of us have stocked up & surprised to find them still available. Very sensible to replace it whilst the system was down & before the old one fails on you. I had one fail & it was a real nuisance having to bleed everything again. Just make sure that the long push rod from the foot pedal can just move very slightly, no more than 1mm, where it pushes onto the master cylinder. This verifies that the master cylinder is returning to rest fully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Elsdon Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Just in the process of sorting out my brakes at the moment after a few weird braking problems, so i have pulled the brake master cylinder, stripped it down cleaned it and replaced the seals, the bore was in good shape, so it got a light honing before another thorough cleaning out. The whole lot was assembled with plenty of brake rubber grease, with a bit of brake fluid used to make sure it slid together properly. The gasket for the lid was made using the old gasket as a copy, i have a massive roll of 1mm gasket paper, that i bought off the internet for six pounds, and should last a lifetime, unless i go mad rebuilding carburettors and brake components. Just as an unusual side note, the alloy lid that covers the reservoir, absorbs water/brake fluid, when i took it off, it had an almost heavy dull plastic quality about it, when i cleaned up the cast iron cylinder i put it in the oven to dry it out for half and hour, and put the lid in as well, when it came out, the lid was alot lighter and made a ringing noise when tapped. Photos of Lockheed 1.5" brake cylinder in bits and reassembled Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 Thanks for the pics Adam, are the refub kits available ? if so where did you get yours from ?? Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abn deuce Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 interesting about the lid , I m guessing that you will be re-painting it to try and seal the moisture out of it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Elsdon Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Sirhc here on this forum had the seal rebuild kits, whether he still has any left, as i bought mine about a year ago. I think the problem with the alloy lid is it is constantly in contact with the fluid inside the cylinders reservoir as there is a remote reservoir above it, but then again, its been there for a long time, so hopefully baking the moisture out should see it right for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted July 2, 2009 Author Share Posted July 2, 2009 Just got myself a bargain http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=310094813837 Two rebuild kits for the price of one away out to the workshop to get rebuilding Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 Right all back to the workshop after a bit of a layoff ,both for me and the pig , coffers filled a little. And back to the brakes. Still a bit soft for my liking can you get servo service kits and what is inside a servo and what are the pitfalls if anyone has done one . Questions a plenty and hoping for answers Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Servo service kits? Ah you really sure you want to do this, Jamie? I have the receipt from a classic vehicle spares supplier for the two service kits for the servo. It was £143 AND that was 14 years ago! I think you will find that servo only makes it easier to put your foot down with less force. Before you tangle with the servo, I would use brake pipe clamps on all 4 wheel stations & see if the pedal is stiffer. If it is, release each clamp in turn & if the travel suddenly increases then you know which cylinder needs attention. If that makes no difference, check that the master cylinder is returning fully & that the shaft that presses into it has about 1mm of play before it hits the cylinder cup. The other thing to consider is if your hoses are rather old & bulging maybe under pressure. Do you have a single or double servo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 Yes to the master cylinder adjusted after doing the service kit of it ,Emmm how do i tell if its one or the other Clive ? All the wheel cylinders were examined when each of the wheel stations were done but ..... Will get hose clamps tomorrow all set for the weekend Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 Emmm how do i tell if its one or the other Clive ? If you are talking about single or double servo, can you send me a picture? I've forgotten I think you have a Mk2. But you could still have a single servo. The clamps are useful for not just isolating a cylinder, but by moving a clamp from one end of the hose(s) to the other, in case there is some bulging. There is quite long run on the fronts with those two hoses. Remember not get caught out, if you have recently run the engine, then the residual vaccuum will help the servo to push on the brake pedal with greater effect. That can give the feel that it is going down further than you thought, when you tried it on another day without running the engine when there was no vaccuum. If its any help, I think the total depth the pedal could travel to is about 5in, the best I can adjust mine to is just under 2in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildside Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 I had a few humber one tons and pigs. if you look at the top of the engine above the fan there should be a little pot with a screw on lid if it is there undo it and you should find a piece of paper with all the modifications etc written on it I had these little pots on all of my humbers and also on the ferret that I owned... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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