Adam Elsdon Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 Jamie, the main brass vehicle plate can be found if you look inside the front nearside/passenger side wheel arch, if you look between the steering swivel housing and where the upper wishbone is attached to the chassis, you should find a plate about 6x4 inches, on it will be allsorts of useful information, including the vehicle registration mark when it was in the Army, and it should tell you exactly what it is you have. And then post it here, cos we like that sort of thing! :yay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james-sas Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 (edited) Removed. MOD EDIT... not good idea posting your login details for another forum here for all to read... think you'll find that if you posted your details for this forum anywhere it would earn you an instant ban.. not sure the other forum would be too pleased if they came under a spam attack... you should never give your account details to anyone. Edited April 30, 2009 by Marmite!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted April 30, 2009 Author Share Posted April 30, 2009 Jamie, the main brass vehicle plate can be found if you look inside the front nearside/passenger side wheel arch, if you look between the steering swivel housing and where the upper wishbone is attached to the chassis, you should find a plate about 6x4 inches, on it will be allsorts of useful information, including the vehicle registration mark when it was in the Army, and it should tell you exactly what it is you have. And then post it here, cos we like that sort of thing! :yay: Been in, under, around and upside down to try and find a number but to no a vale, Clive suggested the engine number under the manifold but i've knackered my wrist and will be out of action for a bit so i'll have another look when Im not so fragile . And no it wasn't mucking about with the pig that did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Elsdon Posted May 1, 2009 Share Posted May 1, 2009 For cleaning your tank try this, its sold by a company called Frost, they arent particularly cheap, however this stuff does work well, i have done 3 fuel tanks with this stuff, and it works a treat, the marine clean stuff strips the goo and varnish out, i used boiling water with it, and the sealer if you need it does an excellent job, it even seals pin holes in the tank up. http://www.frost.co.uk/how_do_i_explained.asp?hdID=3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 Thanks Adam , Next stupid question how much petrol does each tank hold ? 50 liters ?? Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted May 1, 2009 Share Posted May 1, 2009 Thanks Adam ,Next stupid question how much petrol does each tank hold ? 50 liters ?? Jamie Good guess. 57.8 litres 15.6 US gallons 13 Imperial Gallons Be very careful removing the drain plug. Not only can you easily graunch the brass plug, but you can rip the boss from the tank base. My normal solution to a stiff bolt is the blow torch, but can't do that here!!! I would syphon empty the tank then drop the tank down, there are only 4 bolts holding it. Obviously undo the fuel sensor leads, fuel pipe & breather first. Once you have it out & upside-down it becomes so much easier. I once had to file flats on the bolt to ensure I could get the proper application of a spanner. As you have a Mk 2 you could even have replacement tanks these have a different sized plug from normal, larger I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 Thanks again clive your a welth of knowlage Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted May 16, 2009 Author Share Posted May 16, 2009 Right , now that my hands a lot better i finally got it into the workshop,doing things totally backwards i fitted the new headlights, indicator lenses front and back new brake light bulbs and a new number plate and reflectors i decided to have a look at the brakes, Front nearside first ,undone the wheel nuts which were not the tightest , and then got totally distracted ,However i did get a look at the engine number that clive asked me for to find out more details about the pig Engine number 8172 , i hope i remembered it , anyway out tonight but hope to get an early start in the morning Jamie Pics tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 Jamie that engine was originally fitted to pig 23 BK 90 which was a FV1612 but changed after up-armouring to FV1611 role ie APC. So that may be your pig, having a 2-speed generator would add to the credence of that. But it could have had an engine transplant during it's time in NI. By no means did all engines get changed, so I think it is reasonable for the moment to assume that was the ERM of your pig. Unless anyone comes up claiming to own or have seen a pig with that ERM in some other context. 23 BK 90 was struck off to CATC Warminster on 4/1/94 There is a photo of it that I would date between 1972-76 which is copyright of the Tank Museum ref 1370/C1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted May 17, 2009 Author Share Posted May 17, 2009 Thanks for that info Clive BUT..... call me stupid, call me blind, but under the pig today looking at the front axle with my work light guess what i spotted that was in front of me The data plate So my pig is 32 BK 96 Engine No 8172 Chassis No 33296 Now off to specksavers for new glasses Looking at the front nearside axle all seems fine brake shoes and drum look brand new cylinder is intact but the only problem is the seal on the stub axle in fact all 4 wheels seem to be weeping oil on the lower half of the drums but its not inside its the outside Took one of the petrol tanks off the nearside one as well more later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 32 BK 96 oh well you have the engine of 23 BK 90. The original engine for yours was 9004. Yours was built as a FV1602 entering service on 21/9/55 Delivered to 31st B Vehicle Depot Church Broughton Receipt Voucher (which was for 4 Pigs) CBR/R/1726/119 Converted to FV1612 Pig 1958-60 Struck off BAOR 15/2/72 Recovered to Ludgershall AVD 31/5/72 Up-armoured between Sept 1972 – June 1973 & converted to FV1611 role Struck off 6/2/92 That later group of FV1602 vehicles in the 32 BK 60 – 32 BK 99 has always been of interest to me as the 20 of them were drawn to become FV1609 prototypes, in fact mine is not far from you it was 32 BK 74. As for the oil leaks, I expect someone has been pratting around & fitted the hubs back on without using the proper assembly sleeve & crushed the oil seals. I think the outer one has a modern Gayco equivalent but the other one is unobtainable. 14 years ago I bought the remaining stock from Budge which was the only source at the time. I think I only have a couple left. At the time looking after 3 Humbers required quite a few seals to be replaced that had been damaged by bodgery. This is covered here down the page here: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?t=7062&highlight=hub+sleeve+humber&page=18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted May 19, 2009 Author Share Posted May 19, 2009 Went into the local bearing suppliers and he is going to try and order in the damaged outer seal . And whilst cleaning all the bits in the front hub using universal cleaner (petrol) and a stiff brush the paint on the hub and drive shaft end started to dissolve ,bizarre to say,so getting side tracked again had a rub at the side of the pig and the paint dissolved and came off leaving the under paint intact , its Deep bronze green . I don't know what the last person painted it with but makes my job easier ill accept it Waiting for a phone call today to see about the seals . I'm going to go with the advice that Adam gave me and get the frost products to do the fuel tanks with piccys later Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 I'm looking forward to seeing the fuel tank results Jamie ! :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 Went into the local bearing suppliers and he is going to try and order in the damaged outer seal . Needs to order Gayco MI47552525 =Outer hub seal, FV16985, LV6/MT1/GO/M1/4755251/4 I wouldn't assemble the hub without making an assembly sleeve up otherwise trying to align it with all that weight is hit & miss. If you miss you won't know about it until it leaks again & you are back to square one. You are lucky that it wasn't the inner sleeve as you would be stuck I'm afraid. leaving the under paint intact , its Deep bronze green Yes it should be, PW British armour should have Dark Admiralty Grey, the 2 coats of high gloss DBG as the basic coverage over which later went OD & later still NATO Green. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted May 19, 2009 Author Share Posted May 19, 2009 Less done today but i did get the second tank off ,looks slightly older than the nearside one. Seals arrive tomorrow £15 each how does that sound (cheap or expensive) ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 Less done today but i did get the second tank off ,looks slightly older than the nearside one.Seals arrive tomorrow £15 each how does that sound (cheap or expensive) ? Does sound expensive, BUT I've just looked at an invoice dated 27/1/95 & then I was charged £15.68 + VAT @ 17.5%. So I think you've got a bargain! For less than the price of a seal you can make up an improvised hub alignment sleeve as described in my earlier post. Without the sleeve it is highly likely the seal will be damaged on assembly, although you may not immediately know about it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted May 20, 2009 Author Share Posted May 20, 2009 Already on to the seal tool, gave the sizes to a friend of mine that has a lathe and he's going to run me off one today or tomorrow Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 Already on to the seal tool, gave the sizes to a friend of mine that has a lathe and he's going to run me off one today or tomorrow. Jamie Excellent investment, can't afford to damage the seals especially the inner one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Elsdon Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 Couldnt do two could he? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted May 25, 2009 Author Share Posted May 25, 2009 I'll ask him tomorrow Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 (edited) Adam he's not got a long enough bit left only around 4" which may be a bit too short to get a hold of with the hub on . But if you can hang on he'll probably be getting more in to do a job for a farmer. Anyway moving on Three out of the four wheels done , Brake drums so far are as new with hardly and wear as well as the shoe's so good there Nearside front was the first and a fairly easy job outer seal knacked but inner seal intact Nearside rear full of grease inner and outer hub so a lot of cleaning to get rid of again all as new on drums and shoes outer seal knacked inner intact Offside rear again full of grease inner and outer again cleaned out and seal changed did'nt look that bad but most of the bolts were not the tightest even loose so all rebuilt and filled with clean hypoid 90 oil . All the grease points cleaned off and greased and the rear diff oil dropped will refill it tomorrow. As my pig has no front hatches only glazed windows that were broken I set about removing the old sealant and remainders of the glass, wire brushed them and got a coat of primer on it. Have taken templates of the window openings and will go the glaziers and see what they can do for me. I also wire brushed one of the petrol tanks to start on the restoration of them . No pics again but will get the camera out tomorrow Jamie Edited June 2, 2009 by poppypiesdad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Jamie actually the hubs should be packed with grease on assembly & then topped up with oil periodically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted June 3, 2009 Author Share Posted June 3, 2009 I was just going with what Adam said , The inner and outer hubs i filled both with EP90, without referring to the book i think it specs the same for ins and outs, although last time i topped up i used EP80/90, i dont think it is super critical, the main thing is you arent pumping grease into them. While you are looking at levels, make sure the diffs and transfer box are topped up, again EP90 or as clive found using a slightly thinner EP80/90 in the transfer box, his was foaming up and blowing out of the breather. HELP WHATS RIGHT , since i've filled it its not turned a wheel so have i done any damage ???????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 (edited) I was just going with what Adam said , HELP WHATS RIGHT , since i've filled it its not turned a wheel so have i done any damage ???????????? We are both right! As Adam said you must top them up with oil EP90. BUT on assembly they must be packed with grease. As stated in Special Servicing Instr. No.7 of Servicing Schedule Army Code No. 13068/1 (Revised 1973): "Hubs should be packed with grease on assembly and on period servicing should be topped-up with oil in accordance with the instructions laid down in the user handbook. The grease and oil specified are miscible." (Grease specified = XG-279, Oil specified = OEP-220) If you change the lubricant in the Tracta housings, there is a different combination of lubricants. To avoid confusion I won't I won't go into that unless you emptied those housings. Edited June 3, 2009 by fv1609 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted June 3, 2009 Author Share Posted June 3, 2009 (edited) emmmm yes i did is it a big oops? But again it was a pile of sludge that came out of the tracta housings so i think they had not been done of a while Jamie Edited June 3, 2009 by poppypiesdad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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