Treating rust

[MiketheBike]

I am thinking about painting the Ferret, but would like some advice on rust.

The surface rust on flat metal I am ok with, I can sand and prime that.

The bits I am worried about is the rust in the seams, like the beading on top of the hatches on the bins etc. I don't think I can get into all the nooks and crannies, and do not have access to a sand blaster. How would you treat those areas? None off the rust is bad, just surface, but I know what will happen if I just prime and paint.

Do any of the "rust converters" actually work?

 

Thanks,

 

Mick

[john fox]

Mick

 

if you pay for the grit I have a blaster at home and could do it for you....we are "local" after all

[MiketheBike]

John, that would be great.

Where do I get the grit, and what do i ask for?

I am assuming that blasting will get into all those smaller places?

I spoke to a guy who is into the Classic Car scene and he has recommended Dinitrol Converust, so maybe that would be something to apply into those areas after blasting?

 

Mick

[Rick W]

Metal Ready from frosts. Alternatively sell me the ferret!

[john fox]

John, that would be great.

Where do I get the grit, and what do i ask for?

Dinitrol Converust, so maybe that would be something to apply into those areas after blasting?

 

Mick

 

PM sent

Dinitrol is certainly beloved of the classic car types, my friend uses it on his Aston and Jags . Having sandblasted the metal there would be no point using the converter (no rust left!). However it may pay dividends to use one of their waxes to give a coating afterwards

http://www.frost.co.uk/how_do_i_explained.asp?hdID=10

[Grasshopper]

I have used curust before, and found it to be very effective. Ok for small jobs, otherwise it gets quite expensive!

[MiketheBike]

Rick...only if you have a decent Saracen to swap

 

John, I was thinking belt and braces really. I know its a bugger to get rid of every bit of rust, and it will resurface at some point, so running dinitrol into all the seams was just a thought to catch any small spots that were not removed. I would sooner spend £30 on some of that, than have to re-treat in 2 years.

 

Mick

[Papav66]

I'm thinking of trying Owatrol, has anyone else used it?

 

Owatrol Paint Conditioner is a unique paint additive that improves finish and eases application for the professional painter and decorator, especially in difficult conditions.

Owatrol added to any oil-based paint, varnishes or stains will beat paint drag – reducing brush marks and improving coverage.

Unlike thinners, which weaken the paint, Owatrol fortifies it – increasing penetration and adhesion to provide a longer-lasting finish that resists flaking and peeling.

Owatrol can be used to combat rust wherever it occurs, penetrating deeply to stabilise the rust and prevent it reforming. Because of Owatrol’s ‘wetting’ properties, it penetrates through the rust to the sound metal, driving out any moisture and air; filling the rust pores with oil.

Owatrol bonds with the rust to form a flexible protective coating which may be painted over without further preparation

Do not overcoat or use Owatrol Oil with paints containing ‘hot’ solvents such as Xylene or two-part coatings.

 

http://www.owatrol.uk.com

[Tony B]

I've had superb results with a stuff called Vactan, water based can be brushed rollered or sprayed. About £20 per litre but that will do an entire

Land Rover LWB chassis, the other joy is that it is self priming.

[HotBed]

try hydrate 80 from bilt hamber, when dry you can paint straight over with top coat no primer nessesary, proven in long term tests by the german TUV organisation which is higher than our BS standard,spray or brush on

100% satisfaction or your money back

its a practical classics best buy beats kurust

1 ltr is £22.95

 

www.bilthamber.com 01277658899 essex

 

they also do DEOX C which you mix with water in a tub and put your rusty nuts and bolts in and it cleans them like new

1kg is £11.95

 

ive used both and fully recommend them

 

regards

[Guest catweazle (Banned Member)]

I'm thinking of trying Owatrol, has anyone else used it?

 

Owatrol Paint Conditioner is a unique paint additive that improves finish and eases application for the professional painter and decorator, especially in difficult conditions.

Owatrol added to any oil-based paint, varnishes or stains will beat paint drag – reducing brush marks and improving coverage.

Unlike thinners, which weaken the paint, Owatrol fortifies it – increasing penetration and adhesion to provide a longer-lasting finish that resists flaking and peeling.

Owatrol can be used to combat rust wherever it occurs, penetrating deeply to stabilise the rust and prevent it reforming. Because of Owatrol’s ‘wetting’ properties, it penetrates through the rust to the sound metal, driving out any moisture and air; filling the rust pores with oil.

Owatrol bonds with the rust to form a flexible protective coating which may be painted over without further preparation

Do not overcoat or use Owatrol Oil with paints containing ‘hot’ solvents such as Xylene or two-part coatings.

 

www.owatrol.uk.com

Its used a lot in the Marine trade,we use it on Horatia.recomend it.

[Papav66]

Thanks Cat, if its good enough for marine then thats good enough for me.

[ArtistsRifles]

PM sent

Dinitrol is certainly beloved of the classic car types, my friend uses it on his Aston and Jags . Having sandblasted the metal there would be no point using the converter (no rust left!). However it may pay dividends to use one of their waxes to give a coating afterwards

http://www.frost.co.uk/how_do_i_explained.asp?hdID=10

 

Yep - I use Dinitrol on the Saabs and on a Savage Crayford I used to own - that was stripped to bare metal then sprayed 100% with Dinitrol. Works very well!!!

[alixcompo]

After picking up a tip from another forum, I have been using 'Milk Stone Remover' You can google that name.

 

It is phosphoric acid. As Milk Stone it is sold to clean the internal pipework in dairy parlours.

 

Most rust eaters contain this stuff if you read the lable. I paint it on neat after which is phizzs the dirt out and disolves the oxide leaving the black coating which you will be familiar with from other rust eater products.

 

Some times the dirt and cr*p turns into a white powder which I wash off with more neat acid.

 

I have also diuted it 60/40 (60% water) and submerged bigger sections in with excellent results.

 

The best news...... As rust eater you will pay £7.50 for a tiny bottle

 

It isn't necessarily a fast process but.......

As Milk Stone remover it is 10 quid a gallon. Slosh it all over I say