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About IAN_B

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  • Location
    Arcadia, NSW, Australia
  • Interests
    Restoration of trucks, tractors & stationary engines
  • Occupation
    Retired in 1998
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  1. Oxy-acetylene is the only way in such circumstances - glad they came good.
  2. On our small volunteer group's restoration of a 1918 International truck, we found it necessary to replace the castings that support the engine/gearbox subframe, which were rivetted to a cross member. The rivets were originally 3/8", and it was beyond our ability to re-rivet it, so we used 10mm bots that were a snug fit. Not one for the purists perhaps, but at least we have documented our action for posterity along FIVA guidelines.
  3. As a keen follower of the Gosling's work also, I draw inspiration for projects with which I am associated, that the impossible only takes time. I have also become aware of the extreme lack of early examples of trucks in USA. I have a strong interest in Corbitt, made in Henderson NC, a 1921 example of which lurks in pieces in my district. It is one of two I know to exist in Australia, along with just one in USA. If it could be pried from its owner, I would have a go at it myself. Corbitt made trucks for the military. They also made cars from 1908 to 1915, but not a single example exists (o
  4. Great news on the diff. Hope a gearbox comes to light soon. Ian
  5. They seem to have reappeared. Perhaps my internet is too slow!
  6. No photos here either on my Apple MAC. Ian
  7. That is one explanation, the other being that it was wrongly assembled when last overhauled. I note the bronze bush is very wide. When we were faced with bushing down the connecting rods from an original gudgeon pin diameter of 1.300" to 0.875" in the engine of our International truck, we received advice that the bronze should be as thin as practicable due to its compressibility. This led us to double bush the conrod. This situation arose because we had to use the pistons from one engine and conrods from another, and for some strange reason, the gudgeon pins were 1.300" in one, and 0.866"
  8. That pitting is pretty impressive! Are you not tempted to use some filler to improve it? It is surpassed only by the pitting on the main leaves of the rear springs several posts ago. Very nice job on the filler cap, by the way. Ian
  9. What are "feathers behind the hex heads"?
  10. I found when attempting to remove the manifolds that the threads were incredibly tight, but I assisted with some heat. though not near aluminium. There was very small clearance to the castings, too, so a ring spanner could not be used.
  11. You were more fortunate than we were with our International springs. We were unable to obtain replacement leaves of the original dimensions and had to settle for the nearest metric width and thickness, necessitating a little judicious grinding to fit the dumb iron width. Ian
  12. Our wheelwright demonstrated the exact same method as the video on one of our visits, but it can only be done up to about 1 1/2" tyre width. For our truck wheels, we took the rims only, to a retreader who wound on rubber in a continuous strip to the desired total thickness, then cured it in an autoclave above 200C. It was then spun with an abrasive wheel to grind it to shape. We then delivered the re-rubbered rims and centres to the wheelwright to make the timber centres. He imported American Ash from USA already steam formed to the specified radius for the felloes, and he imported Americ
  13. Our newly rebuilt wheels are now in our possession. Here they are on display during our Australia Day open day at our heritage site where the 1918 International truck is being restored.
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