84KB11 Posted June 18, 2008 Posted June 18, 2008 I need to get the tappets adjusted on my Sultan. Question to anyone out there who has done this, are there any special tools needed for this job? Anything to look for or also do while in bits to do this job? Thanks, Quote
sirhc Posted June 18, 2008 Posted June 18, 2008 David, Doing the tappets on the J60 involves removing both cam shafts. Are you sure you need to do this job? I think it would be easier to swap the engine for your spare than do this job while the engine is in the vehicle. You need a few tools... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/XK-6-Cylinder-Jaguar-Cam-Tool-Brand-New_W0QQitemZ380038648514QQihZ025QQcategoryZ10390QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem There is another one for turning the cam shafts, but I can't find one on ebay right now. I have them both though it you need to borrow them, and the instructions! Chris Quote
84KB11 Posted June 18, 2008 Author Posted June 18, 2008 Hi Chris, Basically I have a problem... The CVRT runs fine when cold, but after a long run the engine starts sounding "hollow". Shortly after this starts, it begins to loose power and then stalls. Once stalled, it will not restart until the engine has fully cooled down. It is almost like the engine looses compression. Several people have suggested tight tappets (sounds nasty!). Any ideas of a fix not involving major surgery would be most welcome. Quote
sirhc Posted June 18, 2008 Posted June 18, 2008 (edited) David, That is an unusual problem. I would have thought it would be a fuel problem, rather than tappets. Do you have a leak somewhere? Ferrets suffer from this when the change over tap has a bad seal in it. It could also be the electronic ignition module overheating. If you are confident it's neither of these then if it were me I'd check the spare over, then swap them. You can swap a J60 in a couple of hours, probably quicker than you can identify and recitfy the problem with the other engine. Chris Edited June 18, 2008 by sirhc Quote
Guest catweazle (Banned Member) Posted June 18, 2008 Posted June 18, 2008 Your right sounds more like ign module,common on most things.tappets usually get noisy due to bigger gaps unlikely to be this,that old change over tap problem bin around as long as me.Just see if its lost its spark when it wont start. Quote
Grasshopper Posted June 18, 2008 Posted June 18, 2008 We had a similar problem on our Spartan MCT, which turned out to be a dodgy distributor module. I believe you were helping/advising/insulting us at W&P a couple of years ago when we did the job. Our MCT also played up cutting out when hot at the end of last year, and this time a new set of spark plugs and a clean fuel filter has seemed to do the trick. (Cheap fix!) I just picked up a new J60 distributor module (still boxed, complete assembly) from ebay for £100. To do valves in situ is not impossible, but as Chris says, is really an engine out job. You also need a micrometer and a lot of spare valve shims! Quote
sirhc Posted June 18, 2008 Posted June 18, 2008 David, That distributor you had from me was tested and working, might be worth swapping them over? Chris Quote
84KB11 Posted June 18, 2008 Author Posted June 18, 2008 From the general consensus it sounds like rebuilding the spare engine with known bits and doing a swap is the best bet. I don't think it's fuel as I have a new carb and new fuel filter fitted. Will try checking to see if I have a spark when it's doing its "I've died and will not start" trick. The old addage is true, the more vehicles you have....the less running ones you have! Quote
Tony B Posted June 19, 2008 Posted June 19, 2008 The other thing that might be happening is the fuel gassing. How close to hot spots do the fuel lines run? Quote
84KB11 Posted June 19, 2008 Author Posted June 19, 2008 Fuel lines are not that close to exhaust etc, but the whole engine bay gets quite hot! There is some damage to the fins on the bulkhead cooling fan. I do have a new one so could fit this and a spare dizzy before attempting any major surgery. Sometimes I hate petrol vehicles! Quote
Grasshopper Posted June 20, 2008 Posted June 20, 2008 I'd go for the spare dizzy. Haven't seen many fans that don't have some damage on them. Quote
sirhc Posted June 20, 2008 Posted June 20, 2008 I think damaged blades on the fan is no problem, the bearings are the thing which is likely to cause a problem, but are easily replaced. My Sultan had a brand new fan on it, it may seem sad but when I first span it round (no belt on it) I thought it was amazing and had to keep spinning it! Chris Quote
84KB11 Posted June 20, 2008 Author Posted June 20, 2008 Stay exactly where you are Chris, and dont anyone make any sudden moves. The men in white coats with the padded van are on their way! Seriously though, the new fan is very shiney, may fit it anyway because its so nice! Quote
Grasshopper Posted June 21, 2008 Posted June 21, 2008 David, I'm sure Nick would remind you "sold as seen....". It was working fine when you bought it.... All of our CVRT's were first put together using components the army has discarded for a reason- they don't work! (but you don't know this until you try them). We then have to find bits that do work. CVRT's seem to become allergic to their owners at times, and become very frustrating. You find that when they fail, by the time you get the deck off to investigate the fault, it has disappeared! Quote
84KB11 Posted June 21, 2008 Author Posted June 21, 2008 I know what you mean, spent this morning tinkering with the Sultan and it started and ran perfectly. Tried to replicate the fault, but it would not misbehave! Now the Land Rover is playing up instead! British engineering knows how to keep you on your toes! Quote
Bazz Posted June 21, 2008 Posted June 21, 2008 I know how you all feel, many a time driving along in CVRT/W, veh in question comes to a standstill, call up the LAD, they arrive fitter jumps in and veh starts on the button and runs like a Roller.:argh: Bazz Quote
turnkeyiand Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 dragging the depths of my memory but this sounds like a problem we used to get called to on one of our troopies Spartans. In the fuel system is a valve mounted under the roof to stop fuel spillage if the vehicle turns turtle. The problem was traced back to thhis valve which was mounted in the rear left hand quarter of the vehicle above the stowage area. Removal of this valve resulted in immediate and total cure. I know it may sound a bit far fetched but we figured that either the valve was sticking or was aggravating heat induced fuel cavatation, Ian Quote
Marmite!! Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 dragging the depths of my memory but this sounds like a problem we used to get called to on one of our troopies Spartans. In the fuel system is a valve mounted under the roof to stop fuel spillage if the vehicle turns turtle. The problem was traced back to thhis valve which was mounted in the rear left hand quarter of the vehicle above the stowage area. Removal of this valve resulted in immediate and total cure. I know it may sound a bit far fetched but we figured that either the valve was sticking or was aggravating heat induced fuel cavatation,Ian Ah...that may be the cause of my mystery fuel starvation problem on the Fox..... maybe:confused: Quote
AlienFTM Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 dragging the depths of my memory but this sounds like a problem we used to get called to on one of our troopies Spartans. In the fuel system is a valve mounted under the roof to stop fuel spillage if the vehicle turns turtle. The problem was traced back to thhis valve which was mounted in the rear left hand quarter of the vehicle above the stowage area. Removal of this valve resulted in immediate and total cure. I know it may sound a bit far fetched but we figured that either the valve was sticking or was aggravating heat induced fuel cavatation,Ian You know what? Even though I was a radio man and D&M was merely a stepping stone to crewman, this sounds familiar to me. Quote
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