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Brake/fuel pipes?


Mk3iain

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Hi all

I have changed brake lines many times with copper and copper nickel tubing including kits. But it never looks just right, the tube always comes coiled and no matter how I try I cannot get the "factory" straight look.

Are there any tools or tricks to get the tubing perfectly straight before fitting ? Bends are no problem with a bending tool but to get it straight first........

I am about to change out the brake and fuel lines on my LR Snatch and will be selling it on, so want to get it right.

 

cheers

Iain

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I've never used a pipe straightening tool so I can't say how good they are but have a look at these sites or just search "straighten copper nickel tubing"

 

http://www.totalkitcar.com/2015/01/30/new-thingy-to-straighten-brake-lines-from-laser/

 

http://www.frost.co.uk/coiled-tube-tubing-straightener-pipe-straightening-tool-8mm-od.html

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I've never used a pipe straightening tool so I can't say how good they are but have a look at these sites or just search "straighten copper nickel tubing"

 

http://www.totalkitcar.com/2015/01/30/new-thingy-to-straighten-brake-lines-from-laser/

 

http://www.frost.co.uk/coiled-tube-tubing-straightener-pipe-straightening-tool-8mm-od.html

 

Thanks for that !

Does anyone have experience of these, what would you recommend ? I think the Laser one would be nice but a bit too expensive for occasional use.

 

Iain

Edited by Mk3iain
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These work along the same principle as the wire straighteners we used to use at work, which were very good if set up correctly.

 

Have to say, that Laser one is ludicrously expensive if the quoted price is correct, given that the industrial wire straighteners we used to buy were around that money and streets ahead in build and quality.

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Knowing Laser tools, I'd say a decimal point has slipped! Laser are the budget end of tools. Though I've found them quite decent for occasional use.

Umm. Stand corrected, having checked round places like Amazon, that does seem to be the price. Though Amazon has a selction of tools from about £35 up

Edited by Tony B
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had the same issue when doing the pipes on my bedford , the solution found a local fabrication shop that had a set of

rolling bars with a grove in them for pipe , then just passed them through untill pipie was straight , bit like reverse bending

did this as one lenghth ,just taking out a little each pass, excelent results , would now cut pipe inch or so over length and do same.

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Played with the Frost one when working on the railway carriages the other week and it seems to do the job I believe they come in different pipe sizes, and seems to do the job not bad value too, I think they can produce certain curves as well.

 

If doing a lot of pipework I would probably invest in one or two.

 

RR.

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wont work on real long lengths but have had good success simply rolling back and forth between two lengths of chipboard works on small dia copper piping sounds crazy but have a play with 30 amp fuse wire and a ruler and hard work top start at right angles and work round

Edited by cosrec
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wont work on real long lengths but have had good success simply rolling back and forth between two lengths of chipboard works on small dia copper piping sounds crazy but have a play with 30 amp fuse wire and a ruler and hard work top start at right angles and work round

The two boards method works ok, ive used this a few times when restoring classic cars. I also have used it in work with bent thin wall 6mm steel pipe.

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wont work on real long lengths but have had good success simply rolling back and forth between two lengths of chipboard works on small dia copper piping sounds crazy but have a play with 30 amp fuse wire and a ruler and hard work top start at right angles and work round

 

 

With the right size board this should work with terminated sections from a kit ! The Frost tool would be good for lengths cut from a coil.

Its worth trying the board method before buying a tool, I'll give this a try today.:)

 

Many thanks

 

Iain

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