CVR(T)ools I thought it would be handy to have a list of common tools for CVRT

[teletech]

I've been busy tearing down a Scorpion lately so cleaning off the sponson one day I took inventory and thought it might be of help to someone starting out. I also made a note of what I remember using them for.

I've been editing this as I find yet one more tool I didn't need until later so some more specific bits have shown up.

I'd love to hear of any additional things that should be in every CVR(T) owner's shop to make life better.

 

 

18"+ prybar: general moving of things but it's nice if it will slip in between links to separate track

bent needlenose pliers: radiator fin grooming/straightening

needlenose vicegrips : cotter pins, parking brake lines

small flatblade screwdriver: half-shaft caps

cut off track pin: alternator cap screws

track pin punches.

track clamp

Jacking strut

grease gun: track slack adjustment

large ball-peen hammer and/or small sledge

lifting rope or cable: engine and transmission removal, engine deck removal

6" C-clamps (Q=2) supporting track, closing parking brakes, misc

6"+ capacity gear puller: clutch removal

1/4" punch: half-shaft pin depression

blunted 1/2"+ punch or 2-1/2" hook spanner: clutch nut removal.

Large internal circlip pliers: clutch bearing

medium/small external circlip pliers: clutch actuation piston circlips

Ball-joint separator: damper links

2" length of 1/4"-20TPI hardened threaded rod plus fender washers and nut(s): removal of torsion rod retaining pins.

anti-corrosive joint compound (Mastinox or similar, note that many of these are known carcinogens)

gloves: both work gloves and disposable gloves (see above)

 

7/16" wrench: brake lines, electrical cables

1/2" wrench: battery cables, electrical boxes

9/16" wrench

5/8" wrench: brake caliper disassembly

1-5/16" wrench: heat exchanger hoses, also the nuts backing the lifting eyes

 

1/4"drive

9/16" socket: starter, and the shorter this socket is the better.

10-12" wobble extension: starter

 

1/4" or 3/8" drive

ratchet

3"+ extension

 

sockets for 1/4" or 3/8" drive

7/32" allen socket: torsion par retaining pin caps

2BA socket (5/16" socket works): clutch linings

7/16" socket: electrical fittings, covers

1/2" socket: electrical mounts

1/2" universal joint socket: needed for removing the exhaust manifold with the oil cooler still fitted, a wobble extension might work.

1/2" deep socket

9/16" socket: hydraulic cylinders

 

socket for 3/8" or 1/2" drive

3/16" allen socket (or wrench) removal of torsion rod retainer covers.

5/16" allen socket (or wrench) removal of steering discs.

extra long 3/8" allen socket: steering caliper removal

5/8" socket, fairly thin wall: clutch disassembly

 

1/2" drive

3/4" socket :many mechanical items starting with engine decks

ratchet

torque wrench

breaker bar

3"+ extension

9"+ extension

some combination of extensions for 20"+: rear outside motor mount

 

11/16" extra deep socket or shell wrench: hull drain control

13/16" socket: sprockets

15/16" socket

1-1/8" socket: final drive drain plugs

 

 

Not essential but REALLY helpful are:

floor jack: lifting final drives, they balance pretty well on their drain plugs.

impact wrench

forklift or crane

drill and bits for removing broken bolts (1/8",1/4",3/8",7/16")

broken bolt extractors: so far the only ones I've been unable to remove without drilling are the steering caliper cap screws.

electric grease gun, those slack adjusters can take a lot of grease!

aircraft remover/ paint remover

pneumatic needle scale gun

vibratory/oscillating knife: removing interior compartment foam.

1/4"-20TPI rethreading tap: cleanup of torsion rod retaining pins.

7/16"-14TPI rethreading tap: cleanup of torsion rod retaining caps.

Tap wrench for the above taps.

Rags, LOTS of rags.

spare clothes (including shoes) so you can go home and not have your spouse throw you out.

 

tools specific to the MOD Cummins repower vehicles: I've not done anything beyond pulling the head so I'm sure there must be more to add.

8mm wrench:hose clamps and fuel line brackets.

10mm wrench: turbo oil return

15mm wrench: that one bold you can't get with a socket removing the turbo.

19mm wrench: injection lines (OK, I used an adjustable wrench so I'm not positive)

8mm socket: hose clamps and fuel line brackets.

13mm socket: exhaust manifold bolts, rocker arm mounts, general mechanical

15mm socket: exhaust manifold nuts, turbo mount, valve rocker covers

18mm socket: head bolts

 

 

It would be handy to have a list of real-world essential spares as well, hopefully listing both FV#s and commercial parts for things like the steering pads.

Steering caliper pistons Jaguar Part Number 11365 316

Edited June 24, 2016 by teletech

[David Herbert]

I think that was a really good idea to post that list, particularly with what you needed them for. definately a public service ! :bow:

 

David

[timbo]

Yes, nice work

 

I was going to mention some long extension bars for the offside rear engine mount but I see you translated it into American!

 

I think you are missing the 1 1/8" socket for the gearbox and final drive sump plugs though..

[teletech]

Yes, nice work

 

I was going to mention some long extension bars for the offside rear engine mount but I see you translated it into American!

 

I think you are missing the 1 1/8" socket for the gearbox and final drive sump plugs though..

 

Oh, good catch and thanks.

Even worse I forgot a grease gun!

 

Perhaps when we have a more complete set you can translate it to it's native language.

Edited May 18, 2015 by teletech

[timbo]

Also you are going to get very very friendly with Mr Helicoil!!

[Diana and Jackie]

&af_placement_id=1&dv=981e1da7b016f952ef100817e6ac8119"]{floor jack: lifting final drives, they balance pretty well on their drain plugs.}

 

There is a tool for doing this that screws into the bolt hole above the final drive (plugged by a bolt)

 

Diana

[robin craig]

Manuals

 

R

[teletech]

Also you are going to get very very friendly with Mr Helicoil!!

 

And a TIG welder as well but I didn't want to scare anyone without cause.

 

Well, I have a good stock of Helicoils on hand but am also considering electrochemical removal for steel bolts in Al as an option. I've considered buying time-serts which are much more costly than Helicoil but look really nice installed.

 

I wonder, is it worth considering bolts other than steel for things like fixing bins? Al, stainless, bronze,... I must get out my chemistry book and look at the potentials.

[Diana and Jackie]

Stainless, bronze, brass and copper all react with aluminium. The safest bet is plastic/nylon (yes you can get plastic nuts and bolts but their strength is about zero) or cadmium coated, Zinc and yellow, or zinc chromate or finally BZP.

 

Stainless reacts with BZP, and by the way Stainless nuts and bolts are weak compared to high tensile grade 8.8 nuts and bolts. Under no circumstance use stainless in load bearing structures unless it is specifically a special type of stainless.

 

Nylons washers under the glacis plate bolts help keep the water out.

 

And if you Tig weld Armour then it requires special rods and a very high amperage welder in many situations.

 

Diana

 

 

 

 

And a TIG welder as well but I didn't want to scare anyone without cause.

 

Well, I have a good stock of Helicoils on hand but am also considering electrochemical removal for steel bolts in Al as an option. I've considered buying time-serts which are much more costly than Helicoil but look really nice installed.

 

I wonder, is it worth considering bolts other than steel for things like fixing bins? Al, stainless, bronze,... I must get out my chemistry book and look at the potentials.

Edited May 19, 2015 by Diana and Jackie

[andym]

Noting the above, don't use copper anti-seize grease on anything involving aluminium. Normal grease instead.

 

Andy

[Richard Farrant]

Noting the above, don't use copper anti-seize grease on anything involving aluminium. Normal grease instead.

 

Andy

 

Makes you wonder if this is BS because copper sealing washers have been used on aluminium components for donkeys years and in all my long experience have never seen a reaction where they are used. :undecided:

[andym]

Makes you wonder if this is BS because copper sealing washers have been used on aluminium components for donkeys years and in all my long experience have never seen a reaction where they are used. :undecided:

 

Agreed and understood, it probably depends on whether the conditions allow a return path for the reaction current? Just going on what I was once told by an engineer old enough to have worked on Boudicca's chariot ...

 

Andy

[martinwcox]

Also when track bashing, several muscular friends is a huge plus.

 

Band-aids and aspirin for when you get a booboo and in the morning when all your muscles are on strike!

[teletech]

&af_placement_id=1&dv=981e1da7b016f952ef100817e6ac8119"]{floor jack: lifting final drives, they balance pretty well on their drain plugs.}

 

There is a tool for doing this that screws into the bolt hole above the final drive (plugged by a bolt)

 

Diana

 

It doesn't surprise me at all but I don't think I've ever seen one in restoration photos.

I'd be grateful for a picture of said tool, perhaps it's something worth fabricating.

[Diana and Jackie]

The tool is described in the Diesel version repair manual. I think that someone has already suggested that you get these manuals. Its likely you will have to construct one from the drawing shown. There are also 3 pins that screw into the bolt holes holding the final drive, again locally made, that help guide the final drive from its fixing and prevent damage to the handbrake band. Also contained within that manual is the conversion process to convert a left hand drive to a right hand final drive.

 

All the manuals can be had from Greenmachine surplus. There is also conflict between the Petrol repair manual and the Diesel repair manual over the steering tiller adjustment. The problem with the steering tillers is of removing air trapped in the system which appears to be trapped in the two master cylinders, this again has been highlighted in threads here.

 

I found that by bleeding as best you can at the bango feed to the caliper in the floor, and then at the union passing through the front bulkhead and then tying back the tiller under pressure (one at a time) for a day or two much of the air is expelled or dissipated.

 

Others have tried and had success with various other methods.

 

Diana

 

 

It doesn't surprise me at all but I don't think I've ever seen one in restoration photos.

I'd be grateful for a picture of said tool, perhaps it's something worth fabricating.

[teletech]

I actually did buy some manuals that just didn't make it into the container so they are on the way but it might be a while. For the finals a floor jack and shaped block of wood worked great but it would be cool to have the "right" tool.

Thanks for the tip, good to know how folks have solved some of these issues though balky hydraulics seem to be something I meet often, the clutch cylinder on an MG Midget or Saab 99 are both notorious. When a pneumatic suction bleeder won't work I resort to a pressure pot I've made.

 

The tool is described in the Diesel version repair manual. I think that someone has already suggested that you get these manuals. Its likely you will have to construct one from the drawing shown. There are also 3 pins that screw into the bolt holes holding the final drive, again locally made, that help guide the final drive from its fixing and prevent damage to the handbrake band. Also contained within that manual is the conversion process to convert a left hand drive to a right hand final drive.

 

All the manuals can be had from Greenmachine surplus. There is also conflict between the Petrol repair manual and the Diesel repair manual over the steering tiller adjustment. The problem with the steering tillers is of removing air trapped in the system which appears to be trapped in the two master cylinders, this again has been highlighted in threads here.

 

I found that by bleeding as best you can at the bango feed to the caliper in the floor, and then at the union passing through the front bulkhead and then tying back the tiller under pressure (one at a time) for a day or two much of the air is expelled or dissipated.

 

Others have tried and had success with various other methods.

 

Diana

[teletech]

So, a quick language check:

 

In the U.S.A. I would call the rod linking the axle arm to the lever on the Armstrong shock a tie rod, the sealed articulating bit at the end a tie rod end, and the thing needed to force the tapered joint where the tie rod end goes into that lever arm a tie-rod end separator.

The crude version is commonly called a pickle-fork over here.

 

What do you fellows call the tools and bits so I can add it to the list in a way that makes sense?

 

thanks,

[sirhc]

I think you're referring to a ball joint separator. I would call the bit between the damper and the suspension arm the damper link arm.

 

Chris

[teletech]

I think you're referring to a ball joint separator. I would call the bit between the damper and the suspension arm the damper link arm.

 

Chris

 

Just so, very good. I'll amend the list to so state.

 

I'll add in the vibrating knife to remove the interior foam as well.

 

thanks,

P_

[teletech]

While removing the pins that retain the torsion bars I had some trouble.

I was tempted to machine something nice but it occurred to me that most folks would have to cobble something up in a moment of need so I went with what I had lying around.

I used a short length of hardened threaded rod cut from a 1/4"-20TPI bolt, coupled to a softer length of threaded rod so if the threaded rod failed I wouldn't have to drill out (more) rod bits form inside the retaining pins.

Add a heavy nut, thick washer, and a deep socket and you are set.

 

 

if you do have a bit of rod break off inside the retainer pin, you can use a cut piece from a expanding concrete anchor and you will have something with a well centered hole already in it like so: