guykay Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 The front offside wheel on my S3 lightweight has a puddle of oil on the floor next to it. It is running down the inside of the tyre from the drum. I have removed the wheel, drum & hub to replace the seal behind the back bearing. The bearings are taper roller, and the hub is retained by two lock nuts & a tab washer. How tight should I tighten the first locknut? also my Haynes manual suggests that the part of the stub shaft that the bearings run on is a loose piece. Should I remove this & re-seal with Hylomar or similar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcot1751 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 This is common on Land Rovers swivels, so much so that Land Rover developed a special grease to replace the oil which solved the problem. I have used it numerous times and it certainly works and I would use that. It comes in sachets one per wheel and is available on eBay or from Land Rover themselves. Sorry this didn't exactly answer your question but it should stop the leak Ps. Do BOTH sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivor Ramsden Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 (edited) Tighten it until all play has gone from the bearings, then back it off slightly so that the play is just noticeable. This will be no more than 2 flats on the nut. Give it a good spin by hand to make sure everything is settled, then check that the play hasn't increased. Adjust again if necessary, then fit your locking washer and the top nut. Bend the locking washer over both nuts. Edited April 25, 2015 by Ivor Ramsden Typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Always use a new tab washer! On the way to W&PR last year the Shorland snapped a half shaft. It turned out that part of the re-used tab had failed & the hub was becoming progressively loosened. It is tempting to think that re-using the tab will get you out of an emergency, but it is so easy to forget to replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 The front offside wheel on my S3 lightweight has a puddle of oil on the floor next to it. It is running down the inside of the tyre from the drum.I have removed the wheel, drum & hub to replace the seal behind the back bearing. The bearings are taper roller, and the hub is retained by two lock nuts & a tab washer. How tight should I tighten the first locknut? also my Haynes manual suggests that the part of the stub shaft that the bearings run on is a loose piece. Should I remove this & re-seal with Hylomar or similar? ------------------------------- From your description , two lock-nuts + tab locker , the axle is a early L'wt specific type (not a later "rationalized L'wt type , that was same as 109" front) . It seems you have changed the chrome swivel housing seal. QUOTE. Haynes manual suggests that the part of the stub shaft that the bearings run on is a loose piece. "stub shaft" Haynes means the stub-axle (that mounts the hub bearings) , the early axle has a transition fit (genuine parts) "distance piece" http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/1803/599698-STUB-AXLE-DISTANCE-PIECE.html?search=217351&page=1 These (often called a land runner) wear and if so you change them fitting new hub seals. This problem was more or less resolved with the rationalized axle twin-lip seal BUT the land runner is part of the stub-axle and these later type are very expensive. Haynes is not good for Lightweight early axle because , the hubs are in fact oil lubricated (comes down between bore of stub-axle and half-shaft joint assy. (stub-shaft). Unlike early S2A hubs that had a oil filler ,the S3 hubs don't (spin the hub & pour oil in) or pack the bearings with LM grease. I normally oil , spin the hub and get the end-cap & big O ring on fast. You could use the special slush grease , it may / may not lubricate the upper top swivel pin Railco material bush - depends on circumstances , like fwh's best to engage periodically to spash some oil up for a certain good soaking. ---------------- Tab lockers , I normally set the bearings as described , don't bother with a dti , genuine tab lockers I get them folded somewhere near in a vice with soft-jaws. Then final folding does not alter the bearing set. Some non-genuine tab-lockers are far too thick , often by +50% you have a job to bend them in-situ with hammer & screwdriver , I have used the things but fold them a fair way in vice prior. If you have done the BIG chrome swivel ball seals , then best to do the hub seals at same time and that often includes fitting a new stub distance-piece land ring. Non-genuine are a PITA , total PITA , don't bother. Same with seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peakrec Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Pre load the wheel bearings by feel to just take any play out, with the inner lock nut. Then back off 1 flat, fit the locking tab and outer locking nut. Bending to lock inner and outer nuts together. this will leave the bearings tight enough, to pass an mot and you wont be readjusting the week after when settled down ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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