phil munga Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 They look very neat , as does the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enigma Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 How do you know what type of sparkplugs to use? And then where to get them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 As far as spark plugs are concerned, I have always asked Tim Green of the Green Spark Plug Co what he recommends. He stocks everything one could want so I buy them from him too. The Champion 7s came from him and are NOS. Very rare that we find spares like that! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Incredible that you managed to source new old stock spark plugs for a WWI engine. I would have thought you'd be looking to get hand or custom made copies of the orginals and paying handsomely for the privilege. Hose clips look excellent by the way. Really set off the rest of the engine with it's other brass and copper parts. Modern steel jubilee clips just wouldn't have looked right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 Whilst pottering in the shed, yesterday, I took the opportunity to hold one of my new water pump patterns where the casting should go. As you can see, in spite of all of my agonising on how to make it, it is completely wrong! :??? This suction elbow should line up with the radiator outlet but misses by a mile. Now I think about it, it is obvious what has gone wrong. All subsidy lorries have the radiator mounted above the chassis (a requirement of the scheme) but the lorry whose pump we have copied is just post-war and would have had the radiator mounted much lower, hence the direction of the elbow. Will just have to make another. Never mind! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 You know, if the foundry have already cast it, you could pretty much bandsaw off the outlet, turn it the required number of degrees, and braze it on again. That is assuming that the pattern isn't right and the original had a bend in the hose? Can't you find even one original to check before you do something drastic - up here in Scotland that translates as "even more money" :stop: Erm - expedient repair in the field? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 Fortunately, we have not had this one cast yet as it is from the second batch of patterns. I could just index it round to point in the right direction but then the carburettor heating flange would be angled downwards. It would all work but it would bug me for evermore. I think a new pattern is going to be the best way out. At least I know how to do it this time! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 Steeper section fo the learning curve then? Will you get a new pattern or just re-work the existing one? I can just see that if you re-work the exisiting pattern something else will fall in your lap that needs the original configuration ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nz2 Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 Would the hose clips have been used with brass nuts and bolts to pull them up originally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 Would the hose clips have been used with brass nuts and bolts to pull them up originally? Hmm, might not be ordinary brass - wouldn't take the stress. Bronze, gunmetal (basically bronze with 2% tin if I remember correctly) or ordinary steel would be better bets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 Steeper section fo the learning curve then? Will you get a new pattern or just re-work the existing one? I can just see that if you re-work the exisiting pattern something else will fall in your lap that needs the original configuration ... Yes, there is always something to learn or that one hasn't thought of! I put this one down to the fact that I live 200 miles from the lorry so I can't just look at it whilst doing something else. I therefore didn't spot it until too late! I will make a complete new pattern as someone is sure to want to use this one if I scrap it. I have been busy today and Tim will have quite a few pictures to post when he returns from foreign climes. These last few days have been very good for the project as I have been able to spend quite a lot of time just looking at it and getting my thoughts straight. I have also found a couple of bits that I didn't know we had which is always a bonus! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 Would the hose clips have been used with brass nuts and bolts to pull them up originally? We have accumulated quite a few hose clips of various types over the years but none of them have brass fasteners. I have seen veteran cars with entirely brass clips but, of course, appearance is more important with a car. It is possible to get entirely brass clips new but they are about £5- a time and when a vehicle set is twenty, I begrudge the money. I saw this design somewhere and thought that it would suit what we do so I sketched it and make them up as required. I can't say that they are definitively right but as long as they don't look wrong then I am content. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asciidv Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 (edited) As the topic of hose clips is 'gripping' the discussion at the moment I thought I would add my solution. As Steve has just pointed out there are various commercial equivalents to the clips that he has made. Two examples from 'Vintage Car Parts' are shown below. The text which accompanies them; "Nesthill brass hose clip with brass toggle tightening tail. authentic style under bonnet detail on pre war vehicles. made to suit specific outside diameter of hose, minimum size that we offer is 20mm, maximum size that we can offer is 100mm diameter. accurate measured outer diameter of hose is essential to what it will close up to. these clips are not designed to be adjustable for a 'size range' but are made to a specific and particular size. clip is 14.25mm wide." hints to one of the problems with this type of clip in that they are not very adjustable and in practice cannot apply much clamping force before the brass ears start to bend. In the real world I have found that my cast water pipes are not that round and I only have metric hose to hand which is a bit too much of a loose fit for comfort. So a quick solution without having to resort to a Jubilee clip is a low cost stainless clip sold on ebay for turbo hose plumbing on 'custom' cars. They have tremendous clamping power and by replacing the ordinary nut with a Number 3 brass wing nut adds 'period charm'. Certainly better than a Jubilee clip! Edited December 31, 2009 by Asciidv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 That's a nice solution, Barry and looks just right for a fire engine. Perhaps a bit over the top for an army lorry! You are right about the limited tension one can apply with the type I have made. The Dennis hoses have stretched over the spigots nicely so I think they will be OK. In the past, when the hose has been a bit slack, I have used Jubilee clips for a month or two until the joint has settled down and then replaced them with brass clips so that they look right. The Devil is in the Details! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 I have been away for a while, but now i am back i have a massive pile of photos to add which i thought i should start on. Here is the clutch being fitted: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 Here are some more pictures of the coupling being made: Or is it Tony just manufacturing swarf? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 (edited) And then there were two: Edited December 31, 2009 by Great War truck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
42 chevy Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Could you please explain how that clutch works. I see the lining going around the circumfrence, and I thought that was the parking brake, but I am thinking it is the clutch lining. Am I rigth? thanks John Gott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 This clutch is a cone clutch which was a very common arrangement in the early years of the last century. You should be able to make it out in the pictures of me assembling the centre into the main casting. The idea is that there is a wedging action because of the fine angle and this reduces the strength of the spring necessary to keep both halves together. The down side is that these clutches can be very difficult to slip as they tend to 'grab' and a smooth pull-away can be a real challenge! The clutch is released by pulling it backwards via a thrust bearing behind the nut that you can see in the centre. I have a piece of steel on order at the moment from which to make the bearing carrier. The rest of the linkage to the pedal is in stock but I will wait until we have the couplings and prop shaft connected before fitting it. The other point of note is that this clutch has a 'clutch brake' in the form of two spring-loaded pads mounted on either side. These are provided to help up-changes as the rotating masses are so huge that otherwise, by the time the mainshaft has slowed enough to be able to engage a higher gear, the whole vehicle has stopped! When changing up, you press the clutch pedal to the floor which pulls the cone right back until it touches the brake pads and is slowed down thus enabling a faster change. When changing down the box, you only press the pedal half way so that the clutch disengages but isn't braked.You then blip the engine to accelerate the shaft, half press the pedal again and, with a bit of luck, the speeds match and the gear can be engaged. It works very well but does take some practice when you have been used to synchromesh! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil munga Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 quite a bit of time to machine them couplings , was wondering what them spring loaded parts were 'clutch brake' who'd have thought it , like you say there'll be an art to driving it , great progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
42 chevy Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 Now I got it, thanks for the explanation John Gott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charawacky Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 (edited) I am interested in what clutch face material are you using and what would have been used originally? I have just changed from a composite to leather with backing springs because the clutch uptake was very severe. Yet to be tested. Tom Edited January 1, 2010 by Charawacky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 The clutch lining is the original, as fitted by Dennis! As the engine was used to drive a fire pump, the clutch saw very little use and the lining is like new. It is some sort of woven composite material, possibly asbestos. This will be the first lined cone clutch that I have set up and used so it will be a bit of a learning experience. I have driven a veteran car, owned by the students of my college, which has a metal-metal cone clutch and that was fine, with care. Our Autocars have flat plate clutches which can grab. The manual instructs that if this happens, the plate and linings should be oiled. I was somewhat disbelieving but the oil works very well indeed and they don't slip under load. Perhaps you could try oiling yours? Good luck! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 Tony has made these eight screwed rods to hold the two "tubed " sections of the Universal Coupling together - four in each. The drawing should make it clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asciidv Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 (edited) Did anyone notice the anticipated precision of the assembly operation? PRE-DRILLED split pin holes before the nut has turned on the thread!.....or has there been a lit bit of sub-assembly beforehand to make sure the holes are in the correct place? If you look at the drawing you could almost imagine that the holes should be a little closer to the end of the stud. Edited January 3, 2010 by Asciidv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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