timbo Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 So having got the four bolts in and tight, it was time to start cleaning up the ancillaries. The only real trick with the engine bolts is that the one at the right rear is very hard to reach. You will need 3 or 4 extensions, and it is wise to put tape round them so they dont pull apart. I cleaned up the alternator with the trusty angle grinder and wire brush and then sprayed it. I also removed the end cover but it was actually pretty clean in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 I stripped and cleaned the air cleaner, jetwashed the interior, fitted new heatshield and painted the lid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 Back to the engine bay and I started connecting things up. This is the earth strap which connects to the starter The coolant pipe to the header tank..... And the coolant pipe from the water pump to the heater. This pipe does not come with recon engines and has to be removed from the original engine, or purchased separately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 I then fitted the top coolant pipe.. And connected the fire pipes to the hose which leads to the extinguisher. The bracket was removed from the old engine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 Next up the famous oil pipes which feed from the heat exchanger through the bulkhead to the gearbox... This is the top one which is pretty easy to access. And this is the bottom one, which is tricky but can be got at from underneath the fan with a good quality large adjustable.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 This is the main coolant pipe which goes through the bulkhead. I had problems with this joint on my Spartan and have therefore used 2 jubes on here... Next the fuel pipe is attached to the carb... The starter motor connections next. It is worth checking and double checking the security of these, as more than one CVRT owner will tell you... Next the lead to the fire junction box.. And a general view as it starts to take shape... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Hi Tim, Have you got the exhaust flexy pipes and y piece fitted yet? It's much easier to put those on before you put the engine in !! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 (edited) I then refitted the alternator. The crane comes in handy for getting it into the engine bay! I refitted the two large socket head bolts underneath using a cut down track pin and the 2 large bolts holding it to the sidewall. When refitting the alternator cable, there are 3 smaller pins which you have to be careful not to bend or crush... I tensioned the alternator belt then realised I had forgotten to tension the fanbelt. You should only need to do this if you have disturbed the fan. There is no tensioner as such, just a few mm of movement in the fan mounting holes, so you loosen and retighten the bolts. To aid this I popped a strap through the fan and tensioned it with the crane (not too tight though), then retensioned the alternator belt (this has a proper tensioner assembly). Edited June 17, 2013 by timbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 Hi Tim, Have you got the exhaust flexy pipes and y piece fitted yet? It's much easier to put those on before you put the engine in !! Chris Patience Chris patience !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 (edited) So next I tackled the exhaust flexi pipes and Y piece. Chris is undoubtedly right that this is easier done with the engine out - another lesson learnt..!! There is an internal length of pipe, one short, one long, in the flexi pipes. The short pipe had corroded beyond repair (about 30% of it had ceased to exist) so I fitted a new one... Here are the components laid out prior to fitting... It is very doable this way but as Chris says easier with the engine out. Annoyed that I didn't think of this!!! Wiggle and bash, wiggle and bash is the order of the day, but be careful, these flexi pipes are DELICATE, and you really don't want to end up breaking one of the exhaust castings... Edited June 16, 2013 by timbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 (edited) Finally in go the refurbished air cleaner components with fresh oil...note that if you have a non turreted variant there is less room for the air cleaner so you will have long shouldered bolts to allow you to tighten them... I also fitted a new seal where the air cleaner meets the intake, retained with a bit of silicone. I then added fresh oil, and filled and bled the coolant system. I just used water at this stage, as I will change both the oil and coolant fairly quickly, and put proper coolant in then. Forgot to get pics but there are four coolant bleed points - right rear of the engine for the heat exchanger, the top coolant pipe, the heater pipe, which attachs to the top coolant pipe, and the top corner of the radiator.. She is now up and running and ticking over nicely, so next steps will be to refurb the firewall and put the drivers compartment and decks back together (after a few more test runs!).... This final pic is a general view of the finished engine bay...note the essential extinguisher readily to hand!! Edited June 16, 2013 by timbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Looking good for the Yorkshire Wartime experience Those pics ain't showing up in the last post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 Certainly hope so Andy! All pics should now be OK... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidewinder Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Looking good! Some great pics there, will definitely be looking back at them when it comes to dropping the engine in the Spartan. :cool2: James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Looking good! It seems like the J60's oil pressure switch may be the same as the K60? On the K60 it's buried under the front alternator so you can't get at the bottom mounting bolts. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happydayz123 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Nice work Timbo, looking forward to seeing you and the Sabre at the show. Regards stu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoseman Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 This is the main coolant pipe which goes through the bulkhead. I had problems with this joint on my Spartan and have therefore used 2 jubes on here... [ATTACH=CONFIG]78091[/ATTACH] Just a note on this mate, if using two Jubilee (worm drive) clips, put them back to back, pref on opposite sides, not side by side like this. Ideally use the ONE BOLT CLAMPS, sometimes called SUPA HOSE CLAMPS (just a brand name like Jubilee!), they are more secure and you only need one, looks better too.:idea: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 Looking good! It seems like the J60's oil pressure switch may be the same as the K60? On the K60 it's buried under the front alternator so you can't get at the bottom mounting bolts. [ATTACH=CONFIG]78133[/ATTACH] Andy Hi Andy Yes I guess there will be a few of these common components about. The lack of access to critical mounting bolts also seems to be quite common...! Cheers Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 This is the main coolant pipe which goes through the bulkhead. I had problems with this joint on my Spartan and have therefore used 2 jubes on here... [ATTACH=CONFIG]78091[/ATTACH] Just a note on this mate, if using two Jubilee (worm drive) clips, put them back to back, pref on opposite sides, not side by side like this. Ideally use the ONE BOLT CLAMPS, sometimes called SUPA HOSE CLAMPS (just a brand name like Jubilee!), they are more secure and you only need one, looks better too.:idea: Cheers for the tip mate, just ordered one. I never knew hoses could be such a talking point! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoseman Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Cheers for the tip mate, just ordered one. I never knew hoses could be such a talking point! No probs, dont get me started on hoses, could start a forum of my own on the subject!! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 No probs, dont get me started on hoses, could start a forum of my own on the subject!! lol A separate thread might be of interest? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 A separate thread might be of interest? Andy Andy I was about to say it could be called 'hose of the week' but I think I'd better stop now...!! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoseman Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Andy I was about to say it could be called 'hose of the week' but I think I'd better stop now...!! Tim Its gonna be easier if I do Questions and Answers on that one!! Wouldnt even know where to start on that thread!!! So whos gonna be first.....??? LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 Having just been involved in doing this job, taking an engine out, the advice contained here is very very useful and thanks Timbo for posting it and thanks to Sirhc aka Chris for his comments and directions. If you do not take the alternator (or generator in military speak) out before doing the engine then it makes life tight and people very grumpy. An engine leveler is a big help as it gives you a much finer balance. The outer bellows on the exhaust are sharp edged and we took the exhaust and silencer off the hull above the collared joint so we could get things moving, we had trouble with the split pins and rather than break anything we went around the problem. I like the idea of using straight water on start up to check for leaks, then replace, that is smart. The engine comes out exactly as Tim describes but man oh man it is tight, an inch or two extra would be nice. I have some pictures to follow and some more info Robin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 Here are a few pictures, nothing earth shattering but its keeps the subject alive. Robin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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