Jump to content

CVRT Sabre engine change


Recommended Posts

Tim,

 

Is that an expansion tank on the bulkhead and is it a late mod? My Scorpion bulkhead doesn't seem to have that on it.

 

Hi Vince

 

Yes it is a header tank for the cooling system. All of the ones I have seen have it. Isn't your Scorpion a Belgian one? I wonder therefore if this might not be a Brit mod.. I have a Belgian Scimitar but I've not been brave enough to look under the decks yet!

 

Tim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Not a lot of progress this week but I have got the brakes bled up with fresh iso10. I used an eezibleed which worked quite well, although the main brakes still feel a little spongy. I may leave them a few days than do again to see if any more air has worked through the system. The main brakes have more pipework than the steering brakes so maybe a bit more air trapped.

 

The Land Rover master cylinder seems to be working quite nicely so far..

 

Was also very pleased to meet up with Ferretkitt and give him a tour round the engine bay...(didn't take long). Another one converted to the dark side...!

 

I also managed to get the handbrake unit refurbished tonight so another little job done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Handbrake refitted this morning. When cleaning up these bare metal components I have taken to giving the major parts a quick coat of clear lacquer prior to reassembly. A bit bling I know but I figure when the time comes for (probably somebody else!) to clean these up again it will make their life a bit easier..!

 

The handbrake assembly is held in place by 3 studs in the wall of the driving compartment. The bottom nut is a complete pig to fit. It was missing when I took it off but I have replaced it. You can only get about 1/16th of a turn on the spanner each time so it takes a long time to tighten up.!

 

I also had another go at getting the sponginess out of the brakes. The main brakes are now quite effective, but I'm still unhappy with the amount of travel on the left hand tiller. This connects to the right hand steering caliper to make the vehicle turn left..! I have reluctantly decided to replace the left hand master cylinder. It is a pain stripping stuff already rebuilt but much better to do it now than when it is all back together. I am going to use a NOS CVRT one as it will be interesting to compare it's performance to the right hand (modified Land Rover) one.

 

IMG-20130527-00193.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Some more minor progress to report, with the drivers floor straightened, blasted and given a coat of silver mist. It still has a few dings but this is a part of the vehicle that has a pretty hard life so I dont see the point in going too mad with it. I used my home blasting pot and compressor, which is OK for smaller components but a bit slow for anything bigger than this. I use plenty of polythene sheets and put the part to be blasted into a large box. In this way I find I can recycle most of the sand..

 

I also cleaned up the pedals. I painted the throttle pedal, mainly because I went a bid mad with the angle grinder and it looked too shiny...!

 

IMG_0549.jpg

 

I also had another go at the left hand steering master cylinder and am now quite happy with this. The left hand cylinder connects to the right hand steering caliper so has a longer pipe run. I suspect by leaving it for a few days the last bubbles worked through the system. It now feels as firm as the right hand tiller, so I'm pretty happy with that.

 

If I'm going to hit my deadline the lump absolutely has to go in this weekend so watch this space for more progress soon..!

IMG_0548.jpg

IMG_0554.jpg

IMG_0553.jpg

IMG_0550.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some good progress made today. The lump is now all ready to go back in. First job today was to swap the fire pipes from the old engine. They look like this..

 

photo 12.JPG

 

And attach to the coil bracket...

 

photo 14.JPG

 

And the Kigass blanking thingy...

 

photo 21.JPG

 

This is where the pipe from the extinguisher screws into. When the external extinguisher trigger is pulled it discharges through the nozzles and hopefully puts out the fire.!

 

photo 22.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next job was to swap the coolant pipe for the header tank...

 

photo 13.JPG

 

Then start fitting the oil pipes to the heat exchanger. This has four pipes and is used to cool both the engine oil and the gearbox oil. This is the first pipe being fitted, fresh out of the packet...

 

photo 23.JPG

 

When you get a recon engine it will usually come with the two oil pipes that carry the engine oil, but not the gearbox pipes, which have to be swapped from the old engine. Annoyingly the second new pipe that came with this engine had the fittings set at the wrong angle so I had to swap this one as well from the takeout. Being liberally coated in oil, grease and crud, I gave them a good jetwash before fitting. How tight do you do these babies up? Answer=flippin tight!! It would be very annoying to have to lift the engine again once it has all gone in... Bear in mind if you are fitting an engine into a vehicle that has been stripped you will need to buy the gearbox pipes separately (that go through the bulkhead)...

 

photo 25.JPG

photo 24.JPG

photo 26.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Final job was to swap the earth strap, again these don't seem to come in the crate. I also took the plugs out, popped a bit of oil down the bores and very gently turned it over to make sure no valves were stuck. They weren't but this engine was quite well sealed so that helps. This is the old engine by the way. At least two hours was added to all this because everything I swapped over was so crudded up and took ages to clean properly.

 

IMG-20130607-00196.jpg

 

Finally I hooked up the engine and started getting it ready to lift in (hopefully tomorrow!)..

 

IMG-20130607-00205.jpg

IMG-20130607-00197.jpg

Edited by timbo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also finished fitting the drivers floor. The rear mountings holes had long since given up the ghost so just to stop the floor pan flapping about I filled the holes with kwiksteel, then drilled and tapped them, then gave it a final hoover and wipe, refitted the floor, pedals, and tillers..

 

IMG-20130607-00201.jpg

IMG-20130607-00195.jpg

IMG-20130607-00199.jpg

IMG-20130607-00200.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How tight do you do these babies up? Answer=flippin tight!! It would be very annoying to have to lift the engine again once it has all gone in...

 

Tight - and then make sure you re-lockwire them! :-)

 

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tight - and then make sure you re-lockwire them! :-)

 

Andy

 

dab of threadlock on them too would help!

How much do a set of these pipes cost?

Can you still get them NOS???

If I had an old set I can make these up for members if required!!

Are they 1 wire hose or 2 wire?? R1AT or R2AT??

 

If anyone has simelar they need just ask, im a hydraulics engineer with my own company.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dab of threadlock on them too would help!

How much do a set of these pipes cost?

Can you still get them NOS???

If I had an old set I can make these up for members if required!!

Are they 1 wire hose or 2 wire?? R1AT or R2AT??

 

If anyone has simelar they need just ask, im a hydraulics engineer with my own company.

 

Next time I need a complete set of Abbot pack hoses (about twenty of them) I'll ask you instead of Pirtek! :-)

 

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't want to hijack the thread but I would be very interested in a complete set of new engine and gearbox oil hoses if someone can get you some old ones to use as a pattern.

 

Planning on putting an engine in my Spartan this summer and as it was completely stripped out when it arrived from Withams I am missing lots of hoses!

 

Cheers, James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will post pics tomorrow but the main news is the engine is in!!!! Press ganged the father in law into working the crane for me and she went in with only a modicum of thrutching. Only problem I had was, as usual, one of the captive nuts in the front engine mount popped out on tightening.. The later ones have a flange underneath to stop this happening and as the recon engine mount has these i lifted the engine up again, bashed the new one out and popped it in - worked perfectly. All four bolts are now in and just require final tightening to the usual torque setting, yes you guessed it - bl**dy tight!

 

I now have 3 weeks to get it running and moved which should be OK but lots of other things to do too unfortunately.

 

I dont have any spare gearbox hoses at the moment but will have a think about where to get some to use as a pattern.

 

Cheers

Timbo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A couple of pics of the engine in situ. All the bolts are successfully located, although require final tightening. One thing I forgot to mention is the spacer washers. Mine had one on each side, which sit on the front engine mount. As I have refitted the original engine mount, in it's original location, and have not disturbed the gearbox I figure this should be fine. A visual check seems to show the boltholes in the driveshaft line up fine.

 

pic1.jpg

 

This is not a great pic, but this is the captive nut which is an interference fit in the engine mount, assisted by a knurled ring machined into it. As I said the later style comes with a flange to prevent it pulling out.

 

pic3.jpg

 

A quick word about alignment. There are two things to think about here. First the gearbox must be aligned so that it is parallel to the bulkhead. This ensures a straight run for the fan belt. If your CVRT came with a gearbox still in place, you shouldn't need to worry about this unless you remove it. As I understand it alignment is accomplished with shims.

 

You then need to align the centre of the gearbox input shaft with the centre of the crankshaft before fitting the drive shaft. This is simply a case of measuring from the floor and side wall of the engine bay at both the gearbox and engine ends. If you need to raise the engine you put another spacer washer on top of the front engine mount. If it needs to move left or right you slot the mounting holes for the engine mount itself.

 

Quite an early mod was the replacement of the original driveshaft, which had a universal joint simply bolted to the engine and gearbox at each end. This was replaced with a carden shaft, at each end of which is a resilient rubber mount (technically known as a donut!).. If you have a Belgian vehicle it will probably have the original UJ, easily replaced with a mod kit from Marcus Glenn. Donuts are also readily available, but if you get the alignment right they should last a very long time...

pic2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next time I need a complete set of Abbot pack hoses (about twenty of them) I'll ask you instead of Pirtek! :-)

 

Andy

 

Why is it that people automatically go to Pirtek instead of their small local hydraulics company??

Not a problem mate, just dont swear at me again (Pirtek...!!!)

 

I am 10 years senior engineer for Pirtek here in the North west, saw the error of my ways and started my own company.

 

never looked back. We parted on bad terms so I opened my depot next to theirs!!!!

 

I can do the same and more as im not tied into supplier contracts and I enjoy the challenge of hydraulics where their guys just say they cant do it and tell you to go to main agents!!!!

 

Let me know, always willing to help where i can

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why is it that people automatically go to Pirtek instead of their small local hydraulics company??

Not a problem mate, just dont swear at me again (Pirtek...!!!)

 

I am 10 years senior engineer for Pirtek here in the North west, saw the error of my ways and started my own company.

 

never looked back. We parted on bad terms so I opened my depot next to theirs!!!!

 

I can do the same and more as im not tied into supplier contracts and I enjoy the challenge of hydraulics where their guys just say they cant do it and tell you to go to main agents!!!!

 

Let me know, always willing to help where i can

 

Simple - my local (Portsmouth) branch of Pirtek have the correct MOD end fittings, everyone else I've tried just looks blank and shakes their head!

 

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IT LIVES mwwaaaahahahaaaa....!

 

Loads of pics to post but have to finish fitting the exhaust and air cleaner in the morning so will post tomorrow...

 

Started on the button, and sounds, ahem, a bit throaty with no exhaust on....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...