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CVRT Sabre engine change


timbo

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Evening all

 

Have been meaning to start this thread for a while, but have only just got round to it. Hopefully it will be of some use to those of you who contemplating this job in the near future.

 

Basically, I have used my Sabre, 04 FD 34, as a bit of a hack for the last 3 or 4 years. When I bought it it needed a new main brake m/c, new rubber donuts on the drive shaft, and a new starter motor. Other than that I havent done much to it, largely because I have more than enough stuff waiting its turn so wanted to keep at least one vehicle complete and running!

 

Since I first drove it I think I've known that it was, well rather gutless, struggling to hit 30 even on the flat. So, having acquired a small stock of recon J60's last summer, I decided to take the plunge. A compression test showing all the cylinders at between 85 and 110 psi confirmed that this engine was terminally tired.

 

First some pics of the general condition and state of the engine bay once the decking was removed. I did this with an engine crane and a mate. It is perfectly possible for two people to remove the decking by hand, but my back isn't what it used to be so I decided to play it safe. The condition is pretty typical for an unrestored vehicle that has been 'well used'..

 

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Some more pics of the general condition. Having got the drivers seat, firewall and floor panel out I also decided to do a mini refurb on the driving compartment. No point taking it all to bits again later..!137.jpg

 

One thing you will definitely need if doing this job are the two exhaust flexi pipes (a long and short one), as they seem to be impossible to remove intact. You will probably also need the t bolt clamps that hold them in place. I also found on this occasion that the shorter of the internal link pipes had corroded beyond repair. Xmod supplied all the bits, and I got suitable replacement clamps from fleabay..

 

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Although it is possible to remove the engine with the alternator in place, it is easier with it out, and in any event I wanted to do a proper cleaning job. Removing it is tricky, primarily because there are two whopping great allen bolts buried underneath it holding it in place. This is in addition to the slightly more accessible bolts to the side of the engine bay. The trick with these is to use an old track pin with the ends ground off. It also helps to have a mobile phone so you can check the orientation of the bolt as you are working completely blind otherwise. Actually maybe it is easier just to work blind! Sometimes these bolts are missing altogether, maybe because it is easy to forget them!

 

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Along the way I have taken a LOT of quite tedious pictures of wiring, pipes and so on, to help when it comes to putting it all back together. Having removed everything I could see, I set about removing the engine mounting bolts. There are four of them, 2 front and 2 rear, and you will need about 3 feet of extension bars to get to the right rear (stick em together with duct tape!)...

 

I have a 2 ton capacity crane BUT it didnt have the reach, so I extended it 18 inches with some suitable square tube. This was supplied by a fella in the adajacent unit and was one of those rare moments where scrap kept for a rainy day is just the job..! With the crane fully extended, it was slightly over balanced, but strapping two spare Hawker batteries to the back was just the job - worked perfectly!

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Lots more to come :)..

 

I didn't find anything especially interesting in the primieval swamp that was the floor of the engine bay - one 7/16 spanner (result!) and a few bolts. I did find though that the main engine mount bolts were, quite literally, finger tight. I just unscrewed them by hand! I was also very careful to make sure I kept a note of where the 4 heat exchanger oil lines go from and to..! Undoing these where they go through the bulkhead can be a little tricky. A good quality medium size adjustable usually does the trick....

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A few more pics of the clean up, not terribly interesting but then it wasn't very interesting! The floor was covered with a rubberized crud that eventually I could only shift with a decorators scrapers. I used a combination of cillett bang and mucoff as the cleaning medium. Eventually after lots and lots of repeats I got to a point Im happy with. I have decided not to paint the engine bay floor, after all it will be back to square one after a couple of runs..

 

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Eventually I have reached a stage Im happy with. As the vehicle is indoors I had to be quite careful in the use of the jetwash only using it for the final clean up.

 

For the smaller components which I've taken home Im using the trusty wire brush on an angle grinder, works really well, although puts too much polish on if you go too mad, Im not looking for a chrome effect tank..!

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Hi Tim,

 

I think that's the worst engine bay I've seen in a CVRT! I thought my Scimitar was bad. When it comes to cleaning things that mucky there's only one chemical I use.. http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-marine-clean.html - don't get it on your hands as it will dry out your skin, but it removes the oily mess very easily.

 

Is it up and running yet?

 

Chris

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Using the aforementioned method I cleaned up the fan and fitted new bearings, and have also refurbished the master cylinders and brackets (see my separate thread for more on the m/c's)..

 

You might notice the steering box had started to crack at the corner which seems quite common, so I had it welded up and also popped a blob of weld onto the underneath to match the design of the later modded bracket..

 

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Hi Tim,

 

I think that's the worst engine bay I've seen in a CVRT! I thought my Scimitar was bad. When it comes to cleaning things that mucky there's only one chemical I use.. http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-marine-clean.html - don't get it on your hands as it will dry out your skin, but it removes the oily mess very easily.

 

Is it up and running yet?

 

Chris

 

Hi Chris

 

You havent seen my Scimitar yet..!

 

Im rebuilding the brakes and refitting the fan tomorrow but hope to have the engine back in within a couple of weeks. I still have quite a few bits and pieces I want to strip and paint yet...

 

Thanks for the tip on the cleaner. Bizarrely most of the stuff in there wasnt actually that oily - it almost peeled off like a layer of rubber.!!

 

Cheers

Tim

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A couple of steps forward today - hooray!! Refitted the cleaned up engine mount, and decided I would tighten the bolts up properly...

 

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A better look at the repairs on the steering box, you can see here where the original incut corner has been built up with a blob of weld, then tidied up with the angle grinder..

 

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Here is a comparison with the later style of bracket, which you can see goes straight across from the off..

 

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Finally here is another close-up of the weld repair on the sides...fingers crossed it will do the trick..perhaps the result of too many neutral turns!

 

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Oh the simple beauty of a brake light switch!

 

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You have to fit the steering cylinders first, otherwise you cant get at the bolt to tighten it up. Why is it that whenever I have a choice of which bit to fit first, I always, always choose the wrong bl**dy one!

 

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As if to prove my point you also have to fit the main brake pivot bolt with the castle nut and split pin on the right, or it fouls the brake pipes (well it did on mine anyway)..

 

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And here it is all done, all connections checked and double checked, and new split pins and copper washers of course. Useless fact no 326, the brake light switch is depressed in it's normal condition, when you press the pedal, the plunger extends to create the circuit, never seen it that way round before..!

 

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Perhaps it's just me, but I can only see the final picture in that last post?

 

Andy

 

Hi Andy

 

I'll have another look at it later. It seems to work for me, but I have to click on the links to view..

 

Cheers

Tim

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Brilliant Timbo...

 

Excellent photos and great write up.... really enjoyed reading it.

 

My Sabre has been on hold for a few weeks due to a shoulder problem, work and a holiday.... but seeing your progress has inspired me to get back on it ASAP

 

Current position as per my blog here http://alvissabre.blogspot.co.uk

 

 

Looking forward to more photos etc from you soon

 

Cheers

Paul

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Hello PD

 

Thought you had been a bit quiet recently... Glad to be of service. To be honest it was your blog that inspired me to get going - that and an impending move of storage premises. CVRT's are a heck of a lot easier to move if they are under their own steam as I know you can testify...!

 

Cheers

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I have two recon engines to choose from. I have been trying to decide which one to fit but no doubt whichever one I choose will be the wrong one.!

 

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These engines come pretty much fully dressed, but one thing which never seems to be fitted is the fire suppression pipes, these run from the extinguisher on the outside of the drivers compartment, and are secured around the engine, with a nozzle directed at the carb and another between the engine and drivers bay. Although crated they have sat around for a while, so there can be problems with perished carb diaphragms and dodgy coils. I have plenty of spares though just in case.

 

I did think about trying to fit this :D

 

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Not a great deal to report this week, I spent some time stripping and painting the coolant header tank and will post a pic of this when it's finished. I also refitted the fan, complete with lovely new bearings and refitted the drive shaft to the gearbox..

 

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Replacing the fan bearings was reasonably straightforward, with one exception, which was removing the impeller from it's shaft. The pulley end came off fine with a normal sized puller, but the other end was a complete b**tard! I would strongly recommend you buy the largest hydraulic puller you can afford if you intend to do this yourself. For reference the bearing sizes are LJ30WRR and 207KTT. These seem to be readily available - I was able to get them next day delivered. I could have spent hours watching the newly refurbished fan whizzing round - it has a certain hypnotic quality!

 

I also fitted both a new fan belt and alternator belt - seemed a bit daft not to while it's all in bits.

 

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Not much else to report at the moment, below is a general view of the overall situation...can't wait to move into our lovely new unit, which is about a 7 mile drive away on fairly quiet roads..

 

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Finally a spectacularly uninteresting photo, but it is always worth keeping comprehensive notes when taking things to bits, especially if it is going to be a while before you put them back together. Lots of photos are a big help too.

 

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Once the coolant tank goes in I will be ready to start prepping the new engine for fitting, although I still have a lot of bits to refurbish yet - air cleaner, drivers seat and firewall, drivers floor and so on...

 

Some time after completing the swap I realised the above hose connections were wrong in respect of the gearbox oil hoses...for the correct fitment see this thread..

 

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?40222-CVRT-heat-exchanger-hoses&highlight=cvrt+hoses

 

Having said that I've done some reasonable mileage now adn it doesn't seem to have done any harm!

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Some very minor progress last night with the refurbished coolant header tank going back in - hopefully I can get the engine in without scratching the paint! I am trying to get an hour each evening in to at least keep it moving. Next job will be to prep the engine, removing all the tape from the pipes, exhaust etc, checking there are no stuck valves, checking the carb condition, fitting the oil pipes, and fitting the fire pipes. I have also ordered some replacement coolant pipes for those not supplied with the engine.

 

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