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Matt Paint ?


thedawnpatrol

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I'm very close to spraying my Humber now, and i have some good original B/W photos to copy cammo patterns from.

I'm going for the 'Dark Earth' and British Green.

 

However the original photos look as if the finish was dead matt ? and if i do this what implications may i find further down the line ?

 

Cheers

 

Jules

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I'm very close to spraying my Humber now, and i have some good original B/W photos to copy cammo patterns from.

I'm going for the 'Dark Earth' and British Green.

 

However the original photos look as if the finish was dead matt ? and if i do this what implications may i find further down the line ?

 

Cheers

 

Jules

 

This question has appeared in various forms on HMVF and other MV forums over the years.

 

Thoughts differ in the detail but the general consensus ( and I subscribe to this) is that flat paint is porous and over time will lead to spot corrosion particularly if the metal surface has been blast cleaned.

 

However this is not an issue provided you use a good quality primer and my personal choice is then a good hard gloss undercoat before application of a matt top coat. I suggest you do a search on this forum and take a balanced look at the suggestions put forward.

 

Something to be aware of, flat paint will show grease or finger marks as you can see that if you look at period photos (even straight out of the factory).

 

Pete

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This question has appeared in various forms on HMVF and other MV forums over the years.

 

Thoughts differ in the detail but the general consensus ( and I subscribe to this) is that flat paint is porous and over time will lead to spot corrosion particularly if the metal surface has been blast cleaned.

 

However this is not an issue provided you use a good quality primer and my personal choice is then a good hard gloss undercoat before application of a matt top coat. I suggest you do a search on this forum and take a balanced look at the suggestions put forward.

 

Something to be aware of, flat paint will show grease or finger marks as you can see that if you look at period photos (even straight out of the factory).

 

Pete

 

I agree with Pete on this. I painted my WOT2 with Matt paint on primer and I am getting rust spotting, so I will have to repaint it. On my WOA2 I have painted this Gloss (Smooth Black Hammerite) over primer before spraying it Matt and this has given a much more rust resistant finish. Matt paint is soft, scratches easily and soaks up oil/grease like a spong. However, Matt paint with a few hand marks looks very period and 'in service'.

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On my restorations for customers and myself, I use a gloss paint as a barrier, as Pete says, but then use a semi-matt finish. This has a bit of a sheen at first but will dull down after a while. Then it looks as good as origininal without the problem of oil and grease soaking in to it and marring it. I once had a chap come in, nearly in tears as he had restored a jeep with authentic US matt finish, there was a leak from his transfer box and on the initial test run it was drawn up and cover the rear of the body with oil spots. He then tried to clean it off with WD40 and ended up having to wipe over the complete vehicle to make it match. Semi-matt, the way to go!

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I know it can be hard when you've just spent months restoring your pride and joy, but I try not to worry too much about the odd blemish, you only have to drive the thing once round a field and your immacualte engine bay will be immaculate no more...and of course it is more authentic.

 

Light stone/ sand is the way to go if you want low maintenance, it seems to hide the dirt a lot better than green!

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just painting my scammell, had 3 coates of primer, 2 coates of gloss. and 1 coat of semi matt, all small parts hung up and painted with gloss finish and when fit to the chassis the whole thing painted with semi matt, i find that its impossible to fit parts back on without marking things, so as the rebuild progresses it will keep getting a coat of paint, but as a general rule everything will have primer first then gloss followed by semi gloss, scotchbrighted where necessary to give it a key. after all you can never have too much paint on.

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That is a very fine looking car Keith,

 

my Farther spent the summer of 1940 driving a similar car to yours for his OC Capt Gregson 7th Royal Norfolk's.

His duty was to take his OC around the various fortifications and airfields in Norfolk and Suffolk that the Norfolk's were guarding.

Apparently after dinner in a local pub Gregson would go to sleep in the back and give my Dad a chance to get his foot down he always claimed that the Humber would cruise comfortably at 70mph all day long.

 

Regards

 

Pete

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The use of a gloss coat on top of the primer will not enhance the life of a semi-matt/eggshell top coat, it is there as a barrier to stop the metal from corroding.

 

 

Sorry didnt phrase the question very - imeant would using eggshell paint protect the metal as good as gloss?

 

Im guessing/assuming that because its halfway bewtween matt and gloss that it wont be as good a barrier as gloss but better than matt?

 

However you know what they say about assuming........

 

 

A(am curious as looking to repaint my jeep totally after completeing a few panel welds and wanna get it right - top coat will be an eggshell)

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Sorry didnt phrase the question very - imeant would using eggshell paint protect the metal as good as gloss?

 

Im guessing/assuming that because its halfway bewtween matt and gloss that it wont be as good a barrier as gloss but better than matt?

 

However you know what they say about assuming........

 

 

A(am curious as looking to repaint my jeep totally after completeing a few panel welds and wanna get it right - top coat will be an eggshell)

 

What we are saying is that a gloss coat over a good quality undercoat will act as a barrier to what ever top coat you choose to use

 

Pete

Edited by Pete Ashby
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When re-painting my Lightweight, I was advised to use eggshell finish to provide a reasonably waterproof finish; this was straight over a primed surface. This looks a little naff at first - too shiny - but as others have said, it dulls down nicely after a season. After 5 years, finish was still good, although this was mostly on birmabrite alloy of course, in the case of the Landie. But it seems a reasonable compromise to avoid the fag of putting an extra waterproofing coat under a matt finish. Once the paint is on, IMHO the only way to make it look good is get it dirty ! Personal taste I know, but people who ride around in pristine historic MVs look like they are on the way to park up in a museum and need to get out more. The muddier they get, the better they look. Paint is just an undercoat for grime.

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I have always used WARPAINT from R & R but have had to add matting agent as thier paint says it is 15% gloss, i'm about to ask him if he will supply it at 10% in the hope that it will be matter, but will the type of thinners i use make a differance, to be honnest i tend to buy a 25ltr drum of 'standard thinner' which is celulose, but mixes with synthetic paint ok, but do you think that adds a sheen ?

 

Jules

 

Keith your Humber looks lovely, and quite matt in that second photo

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but will the type of thinners i use make a differance, to be honnest i tend to buy a 25ltr drum of 'standard thinner' which is celulose, but mixes with synthetic paint ok, but do you think that adds a sheen ?

 

Jules,

Standard Thinners should not be cellulose, it is more akin to form of white spirit if anything. To wash by spray gun I use a cellulose thinner which they sell as gunwash, I would not use it with synthetic paint though, it does not give good results! If you want the right thinners, go to a local paint stockist and ask for one to use with synthetic coach or machinery paint, i get mine from a local New Holland / Case dealer in 5 litre cans, not cheap but does a good job and as I only use about 10% thinners it goes a long way.

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