milbike Posted June 26, 2012 Posted June 26, 2012 i am replacing the black sludge in my matchless 3gl with some morris's 50w ,i have drained oil tank and cleaned oil tank filter and drained any oil left in crankcase,any suggestions on priming the oil pump,i am concerned that there may be air in the feed /return lines , or do i simply fill tank and run engine thanks Quote
retriever Posted June 26, 2012 Posted June 26, 2012 I always just start up let it idle and watch for oil returning to tank before topping up. If you did not drain the pump it should have enough oil in the pipes and pump to get it all moving. Quote
Tony B Posted June 26, 2012 Posted June 26, 2012 If it is any help. On the Land Rover 101 there is the same problem when oil is drained and filter changed. Oil pump won't prime itself. The method there is to remove front plate of pump and pack Petroleum Jelly into the gap bettween the cog wheels. Then add oil and start. You could also fill the filter with fresh oil before fitting, provided it won't pour out. Quote
Ron Posted June 26, 2012 Posted June 26, 2012 I agree with Retriever. Just let it idle till the oil returns to the tank........ After a full engine rebuild it can be a nail biting few minutes before the oil returns. Retriever, is your Douglas a WD bike? Picture please! Ron Quote
retriever Posted June 26, 2012 Posted June 26, 2012 Yes the bike is wd. from 1917 douglas only built for the army until the end of the war. see picture in my gallery page Quote
Ron Posted June 26, 2012 Posted June 26, 2012 OK. But you will have to give me a clue about the gallery page? Ron Quote
wdbikemad Posted June 26, 2012 Posted June 26, 2012 Don't worry about priming or air in the system.......these old lubrication systems are very primitive, and robust........... As mentioned, it can take a while for the oil to work it's way through the pipework and if paranoid you can always put a small cup-full down the cylinder bore but it's not strictly necessary...... The only advice I'd add would be cleanliness........check all ball valves are seating properly, minimise leaks where possible and check all joints for tightness....... Quote
griff66 Posted June 26, 2012 Posted June 26, 2012 if the old oil was that bad and u can afford it fill with new oil run bike get it nice and warm drain oil and refill should get rid of most of that remaining sludge Quote
Tony B Posted June 26, 2012 Posted June 26, 2012 Out of intrest would you use a modern flushing agent on an engine that old? I be concerned that take to much muck out and the seals would leack. Quote
Ron Posted June 26, 2012 Posted June 26, 2012 Yes definitely not a good idea to use flushing oil or modern detergent oil in an old engine that has been running for a long time on mono grade non detergent oil. Ron Quote
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