WW1 Peerless Truck

[DesertBlooms88]

Here is another shot of a British Army Peerless truck in Palestine outside a British hospital in Jerusalem circa 1918

 

Library of Congress image

http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/mpc2005000761/PP/

 

 

Close-up

 

This is another vehicle at the same location but not sure what it is. 1918

Library of Congress image again

http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/mpc2005000676/PP/

 

 

DesertBlooms88

[Charawacky]

Is the second vehicle on wire wheels?

 

Tom

[DesertBlooms88]

Is the second vehicle on wire wheels?

 

Tom

 

Yes, i guess that means its not a Peerless vehicle.

 

Library of Congress file

http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/mpc2005000676/PP/

 

New Close-up

 

DesertBlooms88

[Great War truck]

I was recently sent some photos of the Sandstone Peerless and thought they should be included here. It is looking quite different to when I saw the first photos of it some years ago:

Someone is having a race with a train:

[CornishMade]

very nice:laugh:

[Great War truck]

One of the few Peerless trucks in the UK recently came up for sale in the estate of Michael Banfield. It sold for about £46,000 and has a new home in Ireland.

It was rebuilt in the 1960’s and they made a new radiator and bonnet for it. Both are a bit of an odd shape giving a strange appearance to the truck. Anyway, it is quite a handsome truck and very shiny. Worth a few photos.

Data plate. Very low chassis number, but gives the date as 1915.

Rebuild plate from Slough:

Peerless plate on the rear chassis member suggesting this is an early chassis:

Post war metal rear wheels:

Magneto switch. Not the original one I think, it should be a K&N.

Funny radiator:

Oil gauge (we need one of these)

Petrol tap:

Front wheels:

Edited September 25, 2014 by Great War truck

[Old Bill]

 

 

 

We don't have this plate for ours and are going to have to make one. Can anyone tell me how they produce the background texture on a casting like this? Is it a sheet of material cut around the letters or maybe with letters stuck on with a thick glue? I really don't know but a lot of old plates have this style.

 

Steve

[Gordon_M]

I've seen that often before but never considered how they did it.

 

It is obviously a coarse material backing, but no sign of glue attachment ( it would be difficult to get it that neat with glue - however good )

 

If I had to guess I'd say the letters and signs had pins on the back and were tapped through the material into a softwood backing - that would give you a neat finish.

[simon king]

We don't have this plate for ours and are going to have to make one. Can anyone tell me how they produce the background texture on a casting like this? Is it a sheet of material cut around the letters or maybe with letters stuck on with a thick glue? I really don't know but a lot of old plates have this style.

 

Steve

 

Isn't the backing just an impression of a piece of finely woven metal mesh?

 

That would facilitate pinning the letters through onto a wooden backing plate.

 

For the lettering you could always try Slaters model railway lettering in one of the larger sizes - and the "Peerless" could be filed up from 60 thou plastic card - or laminations thereof. I've seen somebody do this for the "Villiers on a 1/6th scale Welbike

Edited September 25, 2014 by simon king

[Old Bill]

Yes, I can see now that this one has a heavy cloth (Hessian?) or a mesh backing. I wonder how they got the letters so straight and neat as there is not the faintest sign of a wobble. I hadn't thought of using pins but even they will be difficult in small letters. Other plates have a textured background of dimples or pyramids. Was some sort of laminate available at the time which could be glued onto the pattern backboard?

 

Thanks for your comments. An intriguing puzzle!

 

Steve :-)

[GeePig]

Maybe they made a wax cast of the mesh, mounted it on a board, then added the letters and stuff. Once you have cast a master copy, you could use that for your production run.

 

trevor

[Old Bill]

Wax is an interesting idea. The letters could just be pushed into it which would give the crisp edges. If the letters had long pins and the wax was a significant depth, they would be held well enough for a master to be cast.

 

Someone will know for sure somewhere!

 

Thanks!

 

Steve

[george]

Can anyone supply me with the wheelbase and track measurements for the 4 ton chassis.....the chassis used for mounting the 3" AA gun.

 

Thank......those are excellent plan and elevation drawings......but I would like some dimensions.

 

George

 

 

georgemoore66@hotmail.co'uk

[Great War truck]

It states in Barts Army vehicle Directory as

wb 12'7", 23'0" X 7' 10" X 10'6"

 

I hope that helps, but I think it probably wont be much of a help.

[QL Driver]

Wouldn't the back of hardboard give the right kind of texture?

[paul_bish]

Wouldn't the back of hardboard give the right kind of texture?

 

Not sure hardboard was around then, bit would give a textured effect if used

[BosunAl]

It states in Barts Army vehicle Directory as

wb 12'7", 23'0" X 7' 10" X 10'6"

 

But that's the 3-tonner, not the 4-tonner . . .

 

Bosun Al

[Great War truck]

I think you will find that they are exactly the same. Just the springs are different. There was a LWB Peerless chassis, but that might have been a pre war build, or possibly a Slough built one.

[BosunAl]

Here are some drawings of a Peerless 3-tonner. . .

 

Bosun Al

[Morris C8]

Here are two original photos from my collection, One is a WW1 Peerless Truck the other one might be ?.

Keith

[Great War truck]

Hi Keith

Yes, the second one is a Peerless as well. I must say that I like the positioning of the shovel on the first Peerless. "Now stay there you b*****d"!

[flandersflyer]

Not sure hardboard was around then, bit would give a textured effect if used

 

 

they may have used a bit of lincrusta.....

[andypugh]

We don't have this plate for ours and are going to have to make one. Can anyone tell me how they produce the background texture on a casting like this? Is it a sheet of material cut around the letters or maybe with letters stuck on with a thick glue? I really don't know but a lot of old plates have this style.

 

If you are not set on using period technology then I think that 3D printing could be useful here.

 

Actually doing the texture is a bit tricky (computationally expensive) but I can imagine 3D-printing the lettering with a support structure then pressing that into a wax texture.

 

Of course, you would need a 3D CAD model of the plate, something a little bit like this:

 

[flandersflyer]

If you are not set on using period technology then I think that 3D printing could be useful here.

 

Actually doing the texture is a bit tricky (computationally expensive) but I can imagine 3D-printing the lettering with a support structure then pressing that into a wax texture.

 

Of course, you would need a 3D CAD model of the plate, something a little bit like this:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]108133[/ATTACH]

 

 

or he could just do what i`v said at #47:

 

 

http://www.anaglypta.co.uk/our-papers/brand/original

 

 

rather than go down expensive and time consuming guff...

[andypugh]

or he could just do what i`v said at #47:

http://www.anaglypta.co.uk/our-papers/brand/original

rather than go down expensive and time consuming guff...

 

That doesn't help very much with getting a neat logo and lettering.

 

Thinking about this some more, with a DLP printer you could actually print the base, glue on some metal mesh (or hessian, or wallpaper) then carry on printing the lettering and logo on top.

 

However, that probably isn't something that you would get done by a commercial 3D printer.

 

As for cost, this company charge 20p per cm3 + £4 per part, so a chassis plaque pattern would be in the region of £25 http://www.3dprint-uk.co.uk/portfolio/pricing/ (though I think that other higher-resolution processes might be more suitable)