Ron Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 (edited) Ha Ha! Yes Steve. It's just like a good book to me.....Can't put it down. I've been busy cleaning and blasting nuts/bolts/levers and stuff, to get off to the cad plate firm I'm going to try for the first time. I've heard good reports....fingers crossed. Graham, the usual procedure was to fit longer links at the bottom. Royal Enfield did list them for some of the girder models. I doubt you need worry about it though. These things are more important for an outfit that is being heavily used or carting the family around. Ron Edited April 17, 2012 by Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 Cheers Ron - very helpful. Stafford coming up soon - I will put it on my list ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 A friend made me some new top spindles with their left and right hand threads and I oil blued the ends. The side damper knobs have been altered from WD/CO 7/16" threads to 1/2". and just need a top coat now. The forks are now fully assembled with new steering races, friction discs and spindle lock nuts. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenkinov Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 Ron ..I have been following the thread with interest ...Quite inspiring any updates Regards Jenkinov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 I wrote an appeal to DVLA over the Easter weekend and popped it in my local office letter box. This afternoon I got a phone call on my mobile from Jemima. She apologised for the failings of another member of staff and said that an age related number would be issued to me within a few days.......I think I'm in love! Ron Blimey!! What's her number! :wow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 11, 2012 Author Share Posted June 11, 2012 Are you mad Tony? Do you think I am going to give you the phone number of the woman I love?? Not much has happened to the WD/L in recent weeks. I've been busy on a couple of other projects. I have rebuilt the engine and had the barrel checked for size, which only required a hone. Just got to do the final assembly, which I will do in the frame to save my gammy limbs from lifting a complete engine. Also I am welding and fettling the rear stand that Jan has made and donated to my project. More to come. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 Nice work and an interesting thread Ron, I had an RE very similar when I was about 16, not sure if it was ex mil though, paid a couple of quid for it. It had slightly different mudguards with skirts added. Broke the front downtube jumping a small hump bridge, bodged a BSA front half on the frame, can't remember how as it was nothing like the same (but fencing wire was involved) and it didn't really work..:nut: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Ron, If you decide you need a spare WD/L engine I know where there is one but its £300!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 (edited) Hello Chris, long tome no hear! I doubt I'll be wearing this engine out in my lifetime, but wouldn't mind hearing the story about this other engine, or contact details. I got the stand finished and in primer, and a mate of mine has prepared me a couple of T batteries with side clips (one is for sale). But I need to get my G3 back together to free the bench up. Still waiting for my new big end flywheel assembly to come home. Apparently the job is done, but the bloke has gone on holiday before posting it back to me. I paid up front..... beggars belief!! Ron Edited June 15, 2012 by Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
commander Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Sorry to hijack your thread but does anybody have the gear that goes on the magneto I have just bought an Enfield the same as yours but this gear was missing Commander Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 What model is your bike Commander? WD/L?? Anyway the standard Enfield mag pinion part number is 18575 (probably not readily available). But Hitchcocks sell an Indian made repro for just £11. #140165 (number34 in their illustration) http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbooks/pages/249/Royal_Enfield_Engine_-_Contd._(1) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
commander Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Hi Ron it is a 1939/1940 WDC 350cc C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 OK! For a minute there I thought I had an "L" buddy!! Let us know if you try one of the Indian pinions. We all worry about the quality of Indian made stuff....But they have been building Enfields for years now. I'm sure a phone call to Hitchcocks will get an honest evaluation. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted August 12, 2012 Author Share Posted August 12, 2012 I got the Matchless and other jobs out the way and just got back onto the 'L'. Engine is resting in the frame and I timed the mag up whilst the head was off. A tip for anyone else restoring one of these. ' fit the bloody valve lift cable before the mag' I persevered as there was no way I wanted to remove the mag again. But it had me sweating. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 I've now fitted some new parts in the gearbox and cleaned up the cases. I had forgotten what a nonsense these are to fit/remove!! Much improved by Royal Enfield on later models by simply slotting the bottom lug. I had to refrain from doing it to this box in the name of originality. I have a few more bits painted and much more enjoy the build up over the cleaning, stripping, welding, filling, sanding and spraying. One of my next tasks will be to modify and make fit my Indian made Model G air box. I'll post pictures as I go. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 I've modified my Indian made air filter (made for a post war model G) It should look ok when painted. I've also got to shape a lower chain guard from a chain guard I bought at Stafford for a fiver. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RE350WD/CO Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 A friend made me some new top spindles with their left and right hand threads and I oil blued the ends. The side damper knobs have been altered from WD/CO 7/16" threads to 1/2". and just need a top coat now. The forks are now fully assembled with new steering races, friction discs and spindle lock nuts. Ron Hi Ron can you confirm what the black doughnut looking rubbers are aft of the damper knobs? Are they lock stop dampers? Regards Vince Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 Exactly so Vince. A feature of Royal Enfield's with Girders. Available from Jeff Hunter the 'Rubber Man' quite cheaply. Of course you have to partly dismantle your forks to fit them. Here they are on my WD/C. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 The whole speedo assembly for this bike is strange, to say the least. For some reason Royal Enfield fitted reverse drive speedos to some of their pre war models.....of which the WD/L is derived. Brian Woods (Speedo repairs) was able to reverse the action of my standard Jaeger pattern unit, by adding an idler wheel somehow. Tom and Dave at JJ cables have surpassed themselves with a bespoke cable. Of course I had to endure Tom's sarky comments as usual.......But it's all done in the best possible taste!! Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 Also with this bike, came a NOS DU 142 headlamp attached to which was best part of a NOS rubber wiring loom. I've never owned such a loom. I'm going to use it and just add the missing bits in sympathetic black cotton covered cables. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdbikemad Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Ron...for your info there is now a seller on Ebay supplying repro black-rubber covered copper cable.....(UK based).....worth seeking out..... Rik also suggested using modern PVC cable matted with a "scotch-pad" that looks just like rubber when fitted....... Coloured slip-on sleeves still sourced from Electrical Engineering Services....(I have some left if you can't obtain)...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 Funnily enough Steve, parts of this loom are shiny enough to be PVC but is in fact real rubber. The whole thing has the coloured tabs at the ends. ( I have some from EES). There is a redundant cable from the headlamp to past the battery and I have managed to pull it out of the outer sheathing. There might just be enough for the horn push. I never follow the wiring diagram for the horn. I much prefer to pick up the live feed from the battery rather than the ammeter. The only modern cables I have used are the ones inside the headlamp from switch to bulbs. I'm using an 8" blackout mask so no need for a dip switch. I've also fitted an original MT110 tail lamp and I'm not going to spoil that with a brake light either. I should get the wiring finished tomorrow and take some pictures. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted September 25, 2012 Author Share Posted September 25, 2012 I had to use some cotton covered cables for the dynamo and horn. But otherwise it's an original loom. Here are a few more shots showing:- 8" blackout mask - view from riders right eye with pre war pattern dome glass ammeter and Jaeger speedo - MT110 tail lamp - and general views. Ron. PS. The Clearhooters horn sounds like a very weak cat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 I thought it would be easy to buy a ready made plated WD/CO petrol pipe from Hitchcocks and modify it to suit. After all, how much different can it be? WRONG!! The sweat was dripping off my nose today whilst struggling to re-bend it and get all the nuts to line up as well as avoid it chafing on carb, mag, frame etc. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted October 12, 2012 Author Share Posted October 12, 2012 After sand blasting the exhaust system, I decided that the front pipe was too far gone and not worth saving, so I got my tube guy to make a faithful copy. However the unique fishtail silencer must be saved. All the dings and dents have been brazed up and I have sanded it up in readiness for final preparation. I have also fettled the foot-peg hanging bracket. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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