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Some men are born MV enthusiasts and some have MV thrust upon them


alixcompo

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I probably am stupid but.....

Having bought a 1957/8 Bedford CA MK1 as a restoration project I now discover it is an ex Naval runabout.

 

I am aware that the rules of restoration are 1: Don't break anything and 2: Don't throw anything away. Now I can add to that, 3: Don't rub the paintwork down too hard or you can obliterate any previous serial numbers and hence history.

 

So where do I go from here? You are all Army vehicle types, armour plate and armaments with drab green in your veins.

Who cares about RN stuff then?

My missus was expecting two tone cream and maroon. How can I tell her that Navy blue will look great and that white lettering is historically significant

 

Is there some clandestine group who slink about at classic vehicle shows in a 'Naval Vehicle' area..?

 

I don't think that I have ever seen them. So where do old RN vehicles go if they don't float...?

 

Help

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Further to my electrolysis experiments..............................

I am only using a 4 amp battery charger and am beginning to suspect that large items may need more power.

This isn't an alternitive to bead/grit blasting. It is very slow gentle and only removes corroded material.

However; it definately works. Though the parts come out of the tank looking pretty sad, a good wire brushing leaves them rustless and back to sound metal.

It is much more effective than even rotary brushing alone.

So I will continue to de-rust using this method. It just puts my schedule back even further.

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So where have I been.? Well I must confess to spending a week at the Great Dorset Steam Fair (a must visit for everyone but don’t go for just one day)

You may recall that I mentioned removing the fuel tank..... I reckoned that while I could get to a couple of inaccessible areas then it would be worth scrapping off and painting just that area.

While the copious application of old fashioned underseal has undoubtedly saved the vehicle for all these years, it very quickly became apparent that having moved from Malta to our English climate the afore-said coating has been having the reverse effect and actually trapping condensation.

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The petrol tank itself is in perfect condition and after a couple of evenings irritating the neighbours by stripping it’s coating with a rotary wire brush I managed to coerce our lad to give it a coat of 2 pack black. It is now a thing of beauty which I occasionally stroke on passing. ( And next door appreciates the fact that their dog is now a dapple colour from sniffing under the fence)

It should be refitted by now of course (the tank not the dog) but for the fact that I realise that I need to strip the entire underside.

It is a strangely therapeutic exercise; clad in boiler suit, gloves’ balaclava and glasses I have spent many happy hours covered in all kinds of crap including gearbox and axle grease, Maltese mud, paint chips, dust and hardened bitumen or what-ever it is that antique underseal is comprised of.

I have discovered that it is vital to have a spare lead lamp bulb within easy reach as every couple of hours these tend to give up the ghost submersing me in total darkness. Covered in a variety of detritus, temporarily blind and entirely disorientated, this usually results in me striking my head against the most robust part of the chassis unless there is something sharp and spiteful in easier reach.

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In scraping the chassis it was very rapidly apparent that even the more recalcitrant areas of underseal concealed angry surface rust. In many areas this corrosion was very aggressive.

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I have to say the underside of my van is perfect and requires no welding or repair. However If I don’t deal with the underseal then I’d give it about 18 months to major repair.

I quickly realised that it wasn’t just the main frame which need to be stripped and painted. While some areas have been well protected and the original paint exists; lots of areas adjacent to these have a good deal of new surface rust.

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Biting the bullet I set too. In one week I managed to require a visit to A&E in order to retrieve paint chips from my eyes, had to be tow started in a crematorium car park and had an emergency visit to an osteopath to be able to move at all.

The funeral was my ex mother in law whom I assume used all of her last wishes to attack the bastid that divorced her daughter. Secretly I think I may have deserved it.

I am pleased to report that after 8 days I have just returned to underneath the CA and I can put on my own socks and tie up my boots. It has been a trial but hopefully I have survived..

I have been able to access Ebay of course. In my continuing search for obscure Bedford items I continue to buy cheap things that may conceivably turn out to be useful.

It has proved to be very tricky to obtain pedal boots through which these foot levers operate.

My secret plan is to use cut down Mini steering rack gaiters which are about the right size and very cheap.

This is what I needed.

DSC00792.jpg (I should mention at this point for the benefit of our Antipodean cousins that the grean stuff is in fact grass)

However; for a fiver I spotted a genuine Bedford item that I suspected might do the job.

This is what arrived.

 

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This is the two of them together...!

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Back to the drawing board then.......

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I have had a bit of a bad run recently mainly regarding damaging my back quite badly. However a £100 spent at the ostyopath and I can almost tie my own laces again.

I am hoping to use my incapacity to convince my better half that I really should have a two post lift in the back yard.

However, until that unlikely event I have spent a couple of hours this evening laying under the van scraping the chassis.

Bizzarely I really do find this theraputic; just as well really as it will take me weeks.

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I have had a bit of a bad run recently mainly regarding damaging my back quite badly. However a £100 spent at the ostyopath and I can almost tie my own laces again.

I am hoping to use my incapacity to convince my better half that I really should have a two post lift in the back yard.

However, until that unlikely event I have spent a couple of hours this evening laying under the van scraping the chassis.

Bizzarely I really do find this theraputic; just as well really as it will take me weeks.

 

Two post lift? Bad back? You need a giant multi-axis vehicle rotater :trustme: Work a bit harder on your better half :D

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Really enjoying your account for your restoration, keep up the great work. I have a soft spot for the old CA; it was our first band van, having removed the sink (it was a Dormobile) to get the drum kit in. The sliding doors caused endless amusement. Seem to remember it was also a matter of luck whether you engaged third or reverse. Looking forward to seeing yours at the shows.

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Really enjoying your account for your restoration, keep up the great work. I have a soft spot for the old CA; it was our first band van, having removed the sink (it was a Dormobile) to get the drum kit in. The sliding doors caused endless amusement. Seem to remember it was also a matter of luck whether you engaged third or reverse. Looking forward to seeing yours at the shows.

 

Not the dreaded coloum shift by any chance?:D Round and round and round she goes, something will go click, eventually.

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UPDATE:

I managed to scrape back the chassis & underside from the handbrake back, and got a coat of brushed on 2 pack over it.

The prop and fuel tank are back on and I have temporarily fitted the exhaust system.

It starts readily and easily and after running it for about 20 minute burst several times, it now blow very little smoke from the exhaust.

I have noticed that one of the core plugs is dripping. My solution for now is to chuck in a bottle of 'K seal' which will last until I pull the engine out for a clean up and to get the head 'unleaded'.

Which is all a bit dull and why I haven't posted anything recently...............

However; it did occur to me that someone might be amused at my electrical system

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Believe it or not this is both the ignition and charging set up.

The switch is the jump lead that goes from a good earth (engine in this case) to the negative battery terminal. And the starter button is the big red lead knocking about that I hold onto the positive terminal until the engine starts.

So for my next trick; I thought all those people who are terrified of vehicle electrics and think I am kidding. So I drew this circuit on the back of an envelope.

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Easy isn't it?

The wire with the bulb in it is the exciter wire for the alternator. When the engine starts and the alt is turning fast enough to produce a charge the this is the light that goes out.

It runs from the positive side of the battery, via the bulb, to the small terminal on the alternator.

If that bulb blows the the alternator will not produce a charge.

The next wire (a bit thicker than the last) goes from either of the two big terminals on the alternator directly to the positive post of the battery. It does not pass go, receive two hundred pounds or ever have a fuse in it. It is heavier cable because it carries a charge.

Next wire is a thin wire again. This is the ignition lead which goes from the positive terminal on the battery to the coil. If you are a nefarious bastid, then this wire is called a 'HotWire' because it can by-pass the ignition switch negation the need for a key.And it is how people used to steal cars before they had proper locks and immobilisers.

The wire from the other side of the coil goes to the contact breaker points on the distributor.

And that is it. Simples!

If you really want to be confused then the photo of the battery is blurred because the engine was running despite the fact that the earth was disconnected...!

This is due to the alternator providing enough charge to self sustain the ignition circuit. As long as those 3 wire touched one another I could have taken the battery away from the vehicle and it still would have continued to run.

That's why it is always best to have a switch in the ignition wire..

Now contrary to popular belief I won't be leaving the wiring loom like this. I will in fact have all kinds of sophisticated nonsense like switches, fuses, and lots of relays. I like relays; not only for the fact that they look really complicated and people think I am clever but also because they save having to run high power all over the place and allow me to use thin wire.

So there you go and Bob's yer auntie ( as they say in genetic reorientation circles)

You might imagine that if you added a lighting circuit onto my envelope then it would just go from the positive side of the battery.

As with all half completed restorations that we don't spend enough time working on; I am spicing up the mix by collecting another project vehicle tomorrow. More of that later perhaps.

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So I've been shopping again

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Amazing how they keep turning up

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Lots of very useful spares although this is a much later vehicle than my MK1

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The fact that I've brought it home to carfully dismantle has gone down very badly, so it's a mad panic to get it stripped and into the lock up where it is both out of sight and in stock.

I'm hoping to use the major lumps (engine/g'box, suspensionn, axle etc) to stick on mine while I refurb the original items.

My original plan for the MK1 to be a rolling restoration has been hampered by needing to make it strong enough to actually restore. But it almost has brakes now, it runs fairly well and now it has a nice new wiring loom courtesy of the new arrival.

Incidentally, when I went to pick up the latest aquisition it was rotten wenough to just roll the roof and sides off the vehicle.

These are still available in case anyone wants to convert their Dormobile into a rarer panel van.

The guttering has had it but bits to replace your windows are perfect as is the ribbed MK2 roof.

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Wow, finally I have had a chance to break down the donor

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I have been asking myself why we do this stuff but I know it will pay dividends in the future.

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Like I should live long enough..... I've been having persistant back problems for the last two months

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I'm sure my ostyopath has bought a new car since I have been seeing him

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And here we are loading the bits up on my daily driver. Bought as a scrap yard dog five years ago it has worked its little socks off. Fantastic

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Well I haven't been far away. Too cold for rational thought I have been pursuing another project which I have parked in my daughters garage; which is a lot warmer and better lit than working outside with a lead lamp at home..

 

However

 

I'm very excited.

 

These arrived in the post today

 

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I've been looking for over a year,put out wanted ads, searched everywhere, almost been scammed by foriegn rascals and bought several from people who believed they were the correct size and it turned out they weren't....

As a result of the CA Bedford group on Facebook I responded to someone who was looking for 15" rims. I answered that I had loads on account of trying to buy 16" ones which turned out to be 15" when they arrived. I mentioned that if he had genuine 16" wheels then I would walk to where he was to collect them.

He never responded but someone else got in touch and 'gave' me these two. I am so thankful. I had pretty much given up the hunt and thought that none existed

 

These are the real McCoy, rocking horse poo, hens teeth, 16" rims for my 1958 Bedford CA MK1.

 

Be pleased for me.

 

I think I'll keep them in the house for a few days and admire them

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These are the real McCoy, rocking horse poo, hens teeth, 16" rims for my 1958 Bedford CA MK1.

 

Be pleased for me.

 

I think I'll keep them in the house for a few days and admire them

 

We are pleased for you... and while you're contemplating them, think 900 x 16 bar grips, now that's proper military!!

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We are pleased for you... and while you're contemplating them, think 900 x 16 bar grips, now that's proper military!!

 

900! I would have thought 6.50s or 700 max for a CA:red:

 

John

Edited by Essex5
Spelin!
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