sharky Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 (edited) Can any one help me with the setting height for fv432 and fv433 torsion bars or at least the number of the manuel that contains said imfo . i know there is a dial gauge tool type thing used but i have never seen one, has any one got a picture ?. Also is the height the same for fv432 and fv433 and come to think of it fv439 as there is considerately more weight on the back of a fv433 and fv439. many thanks for any information Iain (sharky) Edited August 4, 2010 by sharky spelling mistakes and terrible grammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 (edited) The EMER for the FV432 (I don't have one for the FV433) E 103/2 shows an axle arm setting gauge FV559795/NSN 5120-99-866-9595 which is a piece of steel plate with three notches in it, one for each axle arm height: No. 1 and 2 stations: 6 3/4" No. 3 and 4 stations: 6 3/8" No. 5 station: 6" All +/- 1/8" The gauge sits in contact with the underside of the hull and a long rod (FV585705) is placed in the hole in the inside of the axle arm where the jacking mandrel goes. You set the torsion arm splines so the rod is in contact with the correct notch in the gauge. I'll see if I can dig you out a picture, but you'd probably be better off with someone who's got the proper FV433 manual? Andy Edited August 5, 2010 by andym Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharky Posted August 5, 2010 Author Share Posted August 5, 2010 Andy many thanks for that my quesstermations in the past havent been to far out i use a piece of brush handle pushed in hole on back of stubb axle and measure distance to bottom of tank . if you have the 433 manuel that would be great if you could check if they are the same heights Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 Sorry Iain, I've only got the FV432 manual, but there must be other people on here with a set of Abbot manuals? I like the broomhandle idea - you should give it an NSN as a special tool! :cool2: Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharky Posted August 5, 2010 Author Share Posted August 5, 2010 Andy cheers i'll see what comes up on here . as for special tool number i'll give it the designation BH71900000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 I've found another EMER, E108, which includes the FV433, and the torsion bar heights are considerably different to the FV432. It says: No 1 station: 6 3/16" to 5 15/16" No 2 and 3 stations: 6 3/4" to 6 1/2" No 4 and 5 stations: 7 3/8" to 7 1/8" Hope that helps! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Pearson Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Anyone any idea of the distances for FV438 Swingfire axle arms? Also, is it measured with or without the wheels on because the weight of the wheels will pull the arm down, resulting in a 'softer' spring setting for the same measured distance than if the wheels are removed. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Anyone any idea of the distances for FV438 Swingfire axle arms?Also, is it measured with or without the wheels on because the weight of the wheels will pull the arm down, resulting in a 'softer' spring setting for the same measured distance than if the wheels are removed. Cheers! You're in luck - E108 seems to include the FV438 although it doesn't say so in the title. It says that the 438 settings are the same as the 432 (see my list above). Strictly speaking it doesn't matter if you've got the wheels on or not as there's a jack under the axle when you measure, but you'd find it a lot easier to do with the wheels off! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Pearson Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 You're in luck - E108 seems to include the FV438 although it doesn't say so in the title. It says that the 438 settings are the same as the 432 (see my list above). Strictly speaking it doesn't matter if you've got the wheels on or not as there's a jack under the axle when you measure, but you'd find it a lot easier to do with the wheels off! Andy Thanks for that Andy, my FV438 always looks like it has the front two torsion bars broken so now I can reset them: I am assumimg the measurements are the clearance from the top surface of the jacking bar to to the hull, not hull to the centre of the bar? You mention a jack under the axle? I thought you did it with the hull jacked up and the arm hanging loose? If you jack the axle you are measuring, how do you know when to stop pumping the axle up towards the hull? If that is so then I am surprised that it makes no difference if the wheels are on or not: if I set it to the correct measure with the wheels on then took them off, the measure would decrease surely as it sprung up - or if I set it with them off then put the wheels on, it will measure more because the wheel weight will pull the arm down? Maybe the difference is contained in the +/- 1/8th inch? Any chance of a scan/photocopy of E108? I could swap you several other bits of 432 literature! Cheers John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 (edited) Thanks for that Andy, my FV438 always looks like it has the front two torsion bars broken so now I can reset them: I am assumimg the measurements are the clearance from the top surface of the jacking bar to to the hull, not hull to the centre of the bar? You mention a jack under the axle? I thought you did it with the hull jacked up and the arm hanging loose? If you jack the axle you are measuring, how do you know when to stop pumping the axle up towards the hull? If that is so then I am surprised that it makes no difference if the wheels are on or not: if I set it to the correct measure with the wheels on then took them off, the measure would decrease surely as it sprung up - or if I set it with them off then put the wheels on, it will measure more because the wheel weight will pull the arm down? Maybe the difference is contained in the +/- 1/8th inch? Any chance of a scan/photocopy of E108? I could swap you several other bits of 432 literature! Cheers John John - See my reply #2 above - the axle is jacked up until the centreline of the jacking mandrel is the prescribed distance from the underside of the hull, then you insert the torsion bar. The proper special tool is a jig with notches in it sized to account for the diameter of the jacking mandrel. I'll PM you a pic showing the arrangement: Does that make sense? Andy Edited August 11, 2010 by andym Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharky Posted August 11, 2010 Author Share Posted August 11, 2010 I've found another EMER, E108, which includes the FV433, and the torsion bar heights are considerably different to the FV432. It says: No 1 station: 6 3/16" to 5 15/16" No 2 and 3 stations: 6 3/4" to 6 1/2" No 4 and 5 stations: 7 3/8" to 7 1/8" Hope that helps! Andy Thanks Andy there is quite a considerable difference. i am still fighting to get the old snapped bars out at the moment havin loads of fun and games but where there is oxy acet there is a way. Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharky Posted August 11, 2010 Author Share Posted August 11, 2010 John - See my reply #2 above - the axle is jacked up until the centreline of the jacking mandrel is the prescribed distance from the underside of the hull, then you insert the torsion bar. The proper special tool is a jig with notches in it sized to account for the diameter of the jacking mandrel. I'll PM you a pic showing the arrangement: Does that make sense? Andy can you p.m that to me also please Andy many thanks Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 can you p.m that to me also please Andy many thanks Iain Will do! The EMER suggests that broken bars can be extracted through inspection covers in the floor for stations 4 and 5. This is more difficult for 1, 2 and 3 because the covers are beneath the power pack and driver's compartment. It suggests finding a piece of 3/4" or 5/8" bar 6' long and threading it 3/8" UNF for 3/4" for insertion in the anchored end of the broken torsion bar. Screw it in, tap broken end clear of anchor block and push broken end through to axle arm end. Hope that helps ... Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Pearson Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 (edited) John - See my reply #2 above - the axle is jacked up until the centreline of the jacking mandrel is the prescribed distance from the underside of the hull, then you insert the torsion bar. The proper special tool is a jig with notches in it sized to account for the diameter of the jacking mandrel. I'll PM you a pic showing the arrangement: Does that make sense? Andy Ahhh! A light penetrates my dim brain!!! I assumed you had the torsion bar fitted and left the arm to hang down (either with or without the wheels!) then measured the distance. Clearly you set the arm loose in the right place with the jack and mandrel and then fit the torsion bar with no strain on it at all afterwards!! Now I understand!!! (However, when I have done it the proper way, I will measure the distance that the arm 'hangs' when the jack is removed so I can, at a later date, check the settings without needing to remove each torsion bar first.) Simples!! With the arm 'hanging' to the measured distance, a much softer setting results and I suspect that this was wrongly done some time ago when the two front torsion bars were replaced while my 438 was being used for corporate entertaining, hence the fact that it has always looks very nose heavy. Cheers John Edited August 12, 2010 by John Pearson Spelling! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharky Posted August 12, 2010 Author Share Posted August 12, 2010 Will do! The EMER suggests that broken bars can be extracted through inspection covers in the floor for stations 4 and 5. This is more difficult for 1, 2 and 3 because the covers are beneath the power pack and driver's compartment. It suggests finding a piece of 3/4" or 5/8" bar 6' long and threading it 3/8" UNF for 3/4" for insertion in the anchored end of the broken torsion bar. Screw it in, tap broken end clear of anchor block and push broken end through to axle arm end. Hope that helps ... Andy these have been absolute swines the splined end that locates on other side with 2 pins were seized solid i had to burn out the pin retaining block then with a centurion track pin drift, a very large sledge beat snot out of remaing torsion bar end till it moved . oh well only another 4 at least to go . i have done countless torsion bars on our 432's but i have never had as much trouble as i am having with this abbot but i suppose its been sat for2 yrs in a scrap yard and i think it had been corporated to death by a firm that could not afford grease before that . never mind it will be all bright and shiney soon also p.m sent andy iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharky Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 here is an idea of the job we have had with these abbott torsion bars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abn deuce Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Wow not a lick of grease or oil anywhere in that housing , even when they failed to lub it there isnt any large damage to the housings ? If it were run any longer would that have ovaled or scored the housings beyond use? Would that then need special bushings or render the vehicle unserviceable . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharky Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 Wow not a lick of grease or oil anywhere in that housing , even when they failed to lub it there isnt any large damage to the housings ? If it were run any longer would that have ovaled or scored the housings beyond use?Would that then need special bushings or render the vehicle unserviceable . suprisingly little wearconsidering, all the muck seal were shot but will replace them as we we fit torsion bars . the housings have a bush inside that would wear first before housing metal so if they wear out then rebush . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Looks like you're having fun, Iain! :cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Just re-fitted all 10 torsion bars on my Scorpion- took 2 of us 4 hours. A doddle compared to yours! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharky Posted August 14, 2010 Author Share Posted August 14, 2010 Just re-fitted all 10 torsion bars on my Scorpion- took 2 of us 4 hours. A doddle compared to yours! you can really go off people:D it does make the easy jobs seem really easy tho more progress this week hopefully should be refitting stuff rather than removing Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliewright Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 John - See my reply #2 above - the axle is jacked up until the centreline of the jacking mandrel is the prescribed distance from the underside of the hull, then you insert the torsion bar. The proper special tool is a jig with notches in it sized to account for the diameter of the jacking mandrel. I'll PM you a pic showing the arrangement: Does that make sense? Andy Reading your thread with interest - could you send me any stuff you have --particularly to do with torsion bars and fitting them -- currently working on a 433 and 2 x 432's --and a Hagglund but have no emers or any reference papers to help --the front torsion bars are snapped on the 432 and its been to long since i've changed one to remember so at the mokent its VOR and I need help many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Im amazed at the lack of photos to this thread. If the last gent who posted concerning Hagglunds suspension settings would like to post a thread I will post to it. We have some manuals for the BV206, is that what your working on? R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.JPG.fbe532a8a386c5010fe8daa1ff85aa23.JPG)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.