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Matador help required


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I am just in the process of purchasing a lovely early 1944 Matador artillery tractor and I will be after a bit of advise from you knowledgeable lot on here.

Its in pretty good shape with its original body but no hood sticks or roof. Would anyone happen to have any sticks lying around that they may want to sell or at least one I could borrow for a pattern. Also how could I find out if the vehicle originally had a full canvas roof or a tin roof? Was there any rhyme or reason to what had what.

Also do any members live in the Yorkshire/Lancashire/Cumbria area that have a Matador with original body with sticks I could come and look at.

Does anyone know where I can get a canvas hood made if I go down that route.

Thanks in advance, im sure that when I get the beast back home I will have a few more questions.

Cheers Dan

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been looking for it for you

Contact: Mr P Mayor

1 Brierley Street,

Off Raglan Street,

Preston,

Lancashire PR2 2AU

Tel: 01772 254488

Fax: 01772 259897

 

 

they have done various trucks in the past . we just bought some od canvas straight off the roll .( they did a good job of a tarpaulin for my works merc sprinter).....

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also found these useful in past, for bits and pieces . (after you have exhausted all the matador guys on here) they might be worth a try

Lancaster Vintage & Classic Spares

Lord Street

Morecambe

Lancashire

LA4 5HX

United Kingdom

 

Telephone: 01524 423453

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Hi, and welcome to the forum.

For Matador bits go to Matador man, Martin Callaghan, Barnsley, S. Yorkshire Tel: 01226 752823

I'd say for canvas go to Allied Forces, they specialise in military canvas, you will find the owner Jim Clark here on the forum.

I have original hoops you could come and measure up, but i'm in south somerset.

 

All the best, Richard

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Having sold my Matador, I now have some parts that are unique to Matador for sale.

 

I have Silencers,

Brand new water pump,

 

lift pump.

 

Three half shafts (two take out) one brand new.

 

Steering Box,

 

Cast Iron radiator,

 

Speedo drive cable (flexible inner).

 

Prop shafts.

 

remains of a pulled apart engine, some heads, block, crank with shells, etc

 

New timing chain

 

I probably have a lot more than this, when I get time I will sort through, but I want to keep parts common to my Douglas. If you need owt desperately PM me, I might have it, I might not.

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Thanks all for your help, I wont be bringing the said beast home for at least 2 weeks, im going to move it on a low loader as it has been in a nice warm shed for the past 6 years and i really need to check it over before it goes near a road. Im sure that when i get it home i will have a list of bits that i need thats as long as my arm. at the moment i really want to sort some sticks out as it just does not look correct without a roof on the back.

I will post a picture of it as soon as the cash has been paid.

I have to admit to feeling like im 16 again, I can think of nothing else. When i bought the MK3 Militant, i was really looking for a Matador but found the Milly whilst looking.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well the Beast is now mine. First job will be to rebuild the high speed front axle and get that fitted. I plan to give it a good check over and do a few shows with it this year, then get it back looking as it should over the winter.

DSCF0001.jpg

DSCF0003.jpg

DSCF0002.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a couple more questions for all you Matador or ex Matador owners. I take it that its is normal for the cab to move a bit? The top of the cab move about 1/2 an inch back and forth when I go ever a large bump. I dont think I should worry as its a wooden frame and its going to move a bit isn't it? The timber look good.

Also the oil pressure is showing 40 psi when started cold and never goes above this. when hot its 17 psi at idol and 40 psi at full revs. is this OK?

I also take it that big end and main bearings are like rocking horse do doos.

Thanks Dan

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I went to look at one - it ran really smoothly with good oil pressure. What put me off was that when I pulled the dipstick (after running it for a few minutes) it looked like the sump was full of siver hammerite paint, not oil :shocked:

 

People say you should run them until they warm right through - when any play and slop will become apparent.

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  • 5 months later...

I am rebuilding a high speed front axle so that my Matador will have the same ratios both front and back, so im after some help again. Could anyone that has a parts catalogue for Matadors be so kind as to look up whether the wheel/hub bearings are the same on trackta joint and Rzeppa joint front axles. could anyone also give me some details on the front hub oils seal. Thank you.

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Hub bearing outer Rezeppa axle is Timkin 592A-594 AEC part number 249-44

Bearing Inner is Timken 952A-598X AEC poart Number 249-45

 

Hub oil seal (super Oil Seal Co. Number 8000624) AEC part number 81-1590 (two per hub)

Distance ring F.17907

Distance sleeve F.17906

Distance sleeve shim 0.028" Z.1/46568

" " 0.036" Z.1/46568A

" " 0.048" Z.1 46568B

 

Can't help with Tracta part numbers.

Edited by antarmike
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I have a couple more questions for all you Matador or ex Matador owners. I take it that its is normal for the cab to move a bit? The top of the cab move about 1/2 an inch back and forth when I go ever a large bump. I dont think I should worry as its a wooden frame and its going to move a bit isn't it? The timber look good.

Also the oil pressure is showing 40 psi when started cold and never goes above this. when hot its 17 psi at idol and 40 psi at full revs. is this OK?

I also take it that big end and main bearings are like rocking horse do doos.

Thanks Dan

Drivers Handbook I have quote

Oil Pressure 60 PSI at max governed revs 1800 RPM, as does the Maintenance manual

Another driver's handbook says

OIL Pressure hot 50 PSI

 

Service manual for A173 and A202 7.7 states correct pressure HOT should be 30 PSI at maximum governed speed of 1800 RPM.

 

Walkers of Stanmore's Mat ran for years and years at 5 PSI and had the adjuster all the way in. (now rebuilt, but it kept running at virtually no pressure for years.)

 

Another Drivers handbook says "On no account should the oil pressure be adjusted, it should be left at the optimum figure set at factory", and quotes no value.

 

Choose your own value seems to be the general view of AEC publications.....

Edited by antarmike
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