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Stop laughing you lot!!


handler 69

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OK ......OK :blush:

I can hear you lot laughing all the way over here in Tasmania. But I need to know............How do I drive the Fox???????:nut:

I have never driven anything with a preselector gear box!!!!

I await with baited breath on your (my peers) divine wisdom!!!!:cool2:

Cheers

Troy

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OK ......OK :blush:

I can hear you lot laughing all the way over here in Tasmania. But I need to know............How do I drive the Fox???????:nut:

I have never driven anything with a preselector gear box!!!!

I await with baited breath on your (my peers) divine wisdom!!!!:cool2:

Cheers

Troy

Hi Troy

Just a quick warning before someone more qualified can give you the correct technique for Fox gear changing and driving. I have had a couple of Ferrets and was trained by an ex. Army insructor. Thankfully or things could have got expensive.

DO NOT use the left peddel as a clutch. Letting the brake bands slip could burn them out !!

For the time being WAIT Read up the on manuals and any other info you have. Someone will be along to guide you on.

That said when you get used to to the technique it is very easy.

 

Iain

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No idea on FOX, and I will be interested to hear how it is done.

 

A typical truck pre-selector box allows you to preselect the next gear whilst on the move - the trick is to keep power on to avoid instant change. Once you either release the drive by backing off the throttle or blip the clutch, the box will automatically change into the selected gear.

 

Good example is the hybrid Eaton twin-splitter box, you can play tunes on that one by splitting each gear twice with a switch using the technique above before shifting the gear lever into another set of cogs :-)

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The best Ferret driving I have seen was by a couple of ex. Rhodesian army chaps.

 

They were visiting Scotland and after twenty years still remembered how to drive their old ride. Never seen such smooth and precise driving, revs always just right. Strangely on a dirt road they drove with one set of wheels on the centre ridge !! They told me it was to avoid mines, old habit hard to break even after 20 years.:saluting:

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To change gear, select the one you want and kick the pedal down to the floor and let it come straight back up. As others have said, do not hold it down, make the movement as fast and smooth as possible. If it doesn't quite select you will get a false neutral and the pedal will come back up really hard. You may need to press it down with both feet if this happens, it means you didn't push it down far enough when trying to change.

 

Once you get used to it you will quite like it. After changing gear I always select the next gear, either up or down, and then I just hit the pedal when I need it.

 

Chris

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To change gear, select the one you want and kick the pedal down to the floor and let it come straight back up. As others have said, do not hold it down, make the movement as fast and smooth as possible. If it doesn't quite select you will get a false neutral and the pedal will come back up really hard. You may need to press it down with both feet if this happens, it means you didn't push it down far enough when trying to change.

 

Once you get used to it you will quite like it. After changing gear I always select the next gear, either up or down, and then I just hit the pedal when I need it.

 

Chris

Chris

Good advice, but not sure on the "kick" better to be "Fast and smooth", a positive all the way down then up movement, with your foot on the pedal all the way through and in full control. Just a "wee" point but if your new to this the change could be unecessarily violent.

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Chris

Good advice, but not sure on the "kick" better to be "Fast and smooth", a positive all the way down then up movement, with your foot on the pedal all the way through and in full control. Just a "wee" point but if your new to this the change could be unecessarily violent.

 

I used the word 'kick' to make it sound different to how you would use a clutch pedal. The important thing is not to ride it like a clutch, so if you're kicking it you're pushing it down and letting it come back up quickly.

 

The bottom line is that Troy needs to get in the Fox and have a go, it's not that scary.

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I used the word 'kick' to make it sound different to how you would use a clutch pedal. The important thing is not to ride it like a clutch, so if you're kicking it you're pushing it down and letting it come back up quickly.

 

The bottom line is that Troy needs to get in the Fox and have a go, it's not that scary.

 

I do appreciate what you are saying and dont mean to be critical. But when teaching you have to be literal with your wording, to say Kick to a "novice" will be translated to a kick in practice. I know, you know what you meant and it is good gen. but see it from a learners perspective.

I have taught ROV pilots, car drivers , put people through their H class etc and have learned this the hard way.

Best regards

 

PS agreed, Troy should now know enough to get out there and enjoy.

Edited by Mk3iain
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I was taught to pump the pedal 50 times before going anywhere, this will get the bands moving and ready for work, makes gear selection easier and smoother.

 

always had trouble getting first gear until i was shown this.

 

Baz

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Right let me rember about starting a fox.

Yea first thing in the morning pump the gcp (cluth pedel) about 30 times to free it all up and get it feeeling right.

To move off first select 1st gear relese handbrake hold on foot brake. Then apply a firm and hard pressure to the gcp pushing it all the way to the floor and bring your foot back up like you would with a normal clutch relesing the foot brake at the same time. As the fox moves forward select 2nd gear. and when the revs say just apply firm pressure to the gcp to push it down to the floor then bring it back up quick.

 

Hopes that makes sence.

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Jeez, Tommo, you QOY boys did things different to us RY lads!

Ferrets, Saladins, Saracens and Fox, with the engine OFF 'Pump -Up' the (gearbox) brake bands by selecting each gear, and depressing the GCP FIRMLY 20 times in each gear, in turn - 20 in 1st, 20 in 2nd, 20 in 3rd etc.

 

Select neutral, start the engine and let it warm up.

(Hope your antipodean Fox has had the carb. flatspot sorted.)

 

Select 1st, firm press of GCP to the floor and back, select 2nd, if on the flat, a few revs, let the handbrake off, you are away!

Release accelerator and press and release the GCP when at a 'slow jog' sort of speed, re-apply right foot, select 3rd and you are on your way! Easy after a few goes.

Loads of FUN if you are 'sensible', even off road. Didn't 'lose' any of our 8, in the 5odd years I was instructing CVR(W). Never thought I would ever say this, but I would love a go in one again!

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I was taught to pump the pedal 50 times before going anywhere, this will get the bands moving and ready for work, makes gear selection easier and smoother.

 

always had trouble getting first gear until i was shown this.

 

Baz

 

50 times and you'd have no leg left! 5 times in each gear is about right.

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Jeez, Tommo, you QOY boys did things different to us RY lads!

Ferrets, Saladins, Saracens and Fox, with the engine OFF 'Pump -Up' the (gearbox) brake bands by selecting each gear, and depressing the GCP FIRMLY 20 times in each gear, in turn - 20 in 1st, 20 in 2nd, 20 in 3rd etc.

 

Select neutral, start the engine and let it warm up.

(Hope your antipodean Fox has had the carb. flatspot sorted.)

 

 

 

Yea thinking about it you are right 20 times in each gear. And the reason why our way is strange is we were never stood still long enough to even apply the handbrake. :-D;).

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CVR(W) Fox User Handbook, Army Code 61007, Dated 1973

 

Page 118, 1.f: Operate the gear change pedal at least six times in each gear.

 

I should have said this earlier, but didn't, buy this book and read it before doing anything else.

 

http://www.shop.milweb.net/proddetail.php?prod=mlrs_1116

Edited by sirhc
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Sit in drivers seat.

Ensure handbrake is engaged (pulled back).

Start engine.

Ensure forward/reverse lever is in correct position.

Select first gear position on selector box.

Push Gear Change Pedal fully to floor and allow to return to normal position.

(The GPC should return without any “kick” or undue force. If it does, switch off engine and press and release the GPC at least five times, with the gear select lever in all the different gear positions.) Then restart the engine and carry on as above.

Release handbrake and gently depress accelerator, and the vehicle will start to move.

Select second gear position on the selector box.

As speed increases, release accelerator, depress and release GPC fully, and gently press accelerator.

Engage third gear position on selector box.

When engine revs have built up sufficiently, repeat above procedure with GPC and accelerator.

Engage fourth gear on selector box and repeat above procedure.

Ditto for fifth gear.

 

 

Carry on repeating the sequences until desired speed is achieved.

 

When the highest gear you require for the conditions has been selected and engaged, it is advisable to put the gear lever in the next lower gear position on the selector box ready to change down to the next lowest gear. However caution is advised not to down change too early as the braking effect of the engine can be abrupt. Also changing down in sequence is much smoother.

When changing down the accelerator should not be used, until you attain the speed you require.

Until reasonable proficiency is achieved, it is best to use all the gears in sequence, ie do not miss out gears, as irate commanders can always reach you, but you cannot reach them!:embarrassed:

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Thanks Lee. But I was actually wondering what the clutch set-up was :-)

 

I've only ever come across the Wilson epicyclic box used in congunction with a fluid coupling or similar, to alllow the epicyclic box to be in gear and the vehicle to be stationary while engine idles - only taking up drive when revs applied.

 

Reading the description of starting off above, there must be a fluid coupling built in somewhere, so what is the GPC connected to? Does it simply dump the oil flow to fluid coupling, thereby causing it to lose drive?

 

Heavier duty transmissions for railway shunting locomotive application incorporated an auxilliary clutch which actuated a by-pass driveline during gear shifts, so tractive effort could be maintained whilst the main gearbox was changing gear under reduced load without causing excessive brake band wear. I wonder if any of the tank drives used this method?

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