Starfire

If you have access to a lathe, you can make your own. They're only annealed copper. Remember to make it slightly thicker than you need, as it will crush a bit, and ensure that you fully anneal it before fitting, as the machining process will work harden it a bit. Cheers, Terry

It looks like a good base for a restoration project. Congrats. Cheers, Terry

Hi All, I've got a parts vehicle Ferret that I've not tried to get running yet. One of the reasons is that the starter panel has been fitted with a key lock and I don't have a key for it. The previous owner didn't either, as it's been mangled a bit with a screw driver or something. Is there a trick to removing it? I know that I bypass it and hotwire the vehicle, but I'd rather have it removed. Cheers, Terry

I'll see if we have any spares at the museum. Do you need Ford or Chev? Cheers, Terry

Can you post some photos and an indication of price? Cheers, Terry

Can I get one without the maple leaf on it? Seriously though, do they suit the Saracen as well? I assume that they would. Cheers, Terry

I'm not sure about the photos, but when 2nd flies up, does it require more force than first to push back down? It sounds like a false-neutral to me. If that's the case, check the adjustment of the gear selector lever; the gates on the selector don't actually do anything and the selector is a simple push/pull lever on the gearbox. The actual order of the gears is 1-2-4-N-5-3 in a line, but if the rod is not actually lining up properly during selection, it can select the wrong gear or get a false neutral where the pedal springs back with considerable force (much more noticeable on a Saracen) and a gear is not selected. Cheers, Terry

Mostly the high roof and lack of turret. There are a number of other differences. FV610 Armoured Command Post Royal Artillery (ACP-RA).

Send them an email, they'll tell you if they have a history card on file. A modest payment (via PayPal) later and you'll have your info. http://tankmuseum.org/schools-and-research/archives Cheers, Terry

Congrats on the purchase! Have a look around on here: http://www.ferret-fv701.co.uk/ Read the manuals, especially the user handbook and make sure that you change all the fluids. To head off the inevitable question: OMD 110 - 30W Engine Oil (a 10W30 is a better substitute). OEP 220 - 90W Gear Oil (85W90 is also fine). OM13 - ISO10 to 15 hydraulic fluid (for the flywheel, you can probably just use ATF though). In the brakes, use a DOT 4. Feel free to ask if you have any queries. Cheers, Terry

That Saracen looks mean with those big tyres on it.

AFAIK, OM-13 is ISO 12; you can safely substitute either ISO 10 or ISO 15, with 10 being preferred in colder climates, 15 in warmer, but it really won't make all that much difference. Try and get some with a dye in it though, it's really hard to read the dipstick or tell if the fluid flywheel is full with a clear fluid. Cheers, Terry

Yep, use an ISO 10 or, in a warmer climate, an ISO 15. Get one with a red dye if you can. If you're only using it in a fluid flywheel, then plenty of people use ATF instead, with no problems. Cheers, Terry

Very nice Are they still operated by the military or privately owned? Cheers, Terry

Comment of the day award Cheers, Terry

We're in the early stage of rebuilding a 1917 FWD at the museum.

Tyre Pressure? [TABLE=width: 500] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD]Mk 1 to 2[/TD] [TD]Mk 3 to 4[/TD] [TD]Mk 5[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD]Road Use[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Front[/TD] [TD]30 lbf/in2[/TD] [TD]18 lbf/in2[/TD] [TD]18 lbf/in2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Rear[/TD] [TD]36 lbf/in2[/TD] [TD]20 lbf/in2[/TD] [TD]22 lbf/in2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD]Cross Country[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Front[/TD] [TD]18 lbf/in2[/TD] [TD]18 lbf/in2[/TD] [TD]18 lbf/in2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Rear[/TD] [TD]25 lbf/in2[/TD] [TD]20 lbf/in2[/TD] [TD]22 lbf/in2[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Cheers, Terry

Always good to see another Australian in here. Welcome. Cheers, Terry

That is beautiful! Cheers, Terry

Yep, I'd check that the throttle is opening fully and then re-check the ignition timing - if you haven't already, consider fitting a Jolley kit. As everything is rebuilt/NOS, ensure that the dizzy is lubed properly and that it is advancing as it should - it could be as simple as it sticking somewhere. Cheers, Terry

Not at all, this is something that is of great interest to me. You don't happen to have a wiring diagram or some detailed photos? Something like that would be very handy around the museum, especially with the addition of an American style slave port and some regular jump start terminals. I feel a project coming on! Cheers, Terry

Excellent work. I'm also interested in the box hooked up with the slave cable; can you provide some details on that? Cheers, Terry

This forum uses an older version of vBulletin. I'm pretty sure that it's not supported. I would be happy to help with the upgrade process though, as a day job, I'm a computer systems engineer and have managed a number of forums in the past. Cheers, Terry

If anyone is genuinely interested in one of these, there are heaps for sale in Australia, as they were made in fairly substantial numbers for the Mk 1 ACCO, but were never issued and were sold off as a big batch several years ago, NOS. Just about every decent event has one or two for sale. Given the current exchange rate, they should be pretty cheap delivered to the UK. I have, however, never seen a set of the rods, you'd have to manufacture something. We have one at the museum to install on our Mk 1 ACCO prototype, if we ever finish restoring it (it has been moved from storage, into the workshop and back into storage several times over the years). Cheers, Terry

Welcome back! Combine both fetishes and buy yourself a Humber Pig Cheers, Terry