Starfire

Welcome in! There seems to be a lot of Ferret/Saladin owners in Texas. Cheers, Terry

That was a good looking 432. Awesome photo too. Cheers, Terry

Welcome in! Bite the bullet and just get one, you won't regret it

I'll confirm that people don't leave the conical covers alone. It drives me mad, to the point that I'm thinking of not taking the vehicle to shows anymore - either that or I should smear them with thick, black grease Tim Vibert of Empire trading has the conical ones. I've not been able to find the flat ones, although I've been thinking about getting some made up, would there be a market for them? Also, they appear to be different sizes; the flat ones fit the early 3 barrel launchers while the conical ones are larger and fit the 4 barrel launchers. Cheers, Terry

Try here: http://www.ferret-fv701.co.uk/switchboardtext.doc Cheers, Terry

Thanks, I'm more interested in the Mk 1 bits, are you listing those?

I can't find the listings, but am interested in the items! I hope they ship to Australia Cheers, Terry

The Saracen manual makes the point that the oil pump for the transfer case is driven by the input shaft; that means when towed, even in neutral, some of the components in it are poorly lubricated. Not sure if the ferret has the same issue.

If you are going to flat tow it, gearbox in neutral, transfer case in neutral, minimal speed and minimal distance. Cheers, Terry.

David, It looks like the timing circuit uses some sort of timer to set a diode to effect the ignition cut out. You won't be able to manually change it, but going to an 8 cyl. engine will affect it as you expect. At the end of the day though, I would strongly recommend that you just get a jolley kit. Pissing around with a J60 unit will not net you very good results and even if you can make it work. It will cost more than the jolly kit in the long run. Cheers, Terry

You don't need anything particularly special in the way of leads for that battery. I assume that it has standard terminals, in which case any auto parts store will have appropriate leads and terminals for it, just pick your length.

Terry.j.kowalik@gmail.com Cheers

It is marked (in marker) with 99-809-0414, which lead me to this thread: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?33350-I-have-been-donated-an-canvas-tarp-for-a-Centurian-tank-by-a-retired-Colonel_Value I gave it a good clean today (it was a bit mildewey and dirty) and will pick up some telescoping tent poles this week. Will see what I can do with it. Cheers, Terry

Hi, I've picked up what has been described as a Centurion crew tent, but have no idea how they are set up - it's a rather odd shape and only came with 3 short poles. It looks like it might be some sort of lean to. Does anyone have any info on them and/or pictures of them set up? Cheers, Terry

Careful, if you get any of the green paint under your fingernails, it will enter your bloodstream and you'll end up with a fleet of the buggers Cheers, Terry

Got it sorted, and went to the trouble of putting the belts nearest the engine. My tips are: Remove the fan coupling Liberally spray down the adjuster with WD-40 Back it off as far as it goes. This is painful and the generator will hit the coil mount when there is still room to go on the adjuster. Removing the coil may be an option, but I didn't try it. Wind in the other nut on the adjuster in, to hold the generator at the slackest position. Finger tight will do. Cut the old belts off. You'll never get them in one piece. Lube up the belts and pulleys with plenty of liquid soap. Put the belts on the bottom pulley first (there is a bolt or something under the bottom, so not much clearance. Prize it in with your fingers). Then go round the generator. Finally the water pump. A lever will help get it over, as will someone turning the crank handle. Pry the belt over on the crank pulley, while someone turns it. Repeat on the water pump. Feed a shim between the generator pulley and the belt from underneath and when it's lifted clear of the belt, pry it over to the next row. The best shim I found was the flattened cardboard tube from the centre of a roll of duct tape, fed in lengthwise. It was strong enough to hold the belt clear of the pulley, pliable enough to wrap around the pulley, long enough to cover most of the contact patch and grippy enough to get pulled under the belts, even while covered with soap. Repeat until both belts are in the correct positions. Refit the coupling to the fan. Back the outer nut on the adjuster right off. Tension the belt. Turn the engine over a few times with the crank handle while doing it. Run the engine, while gently hosing all the soap out (make sure an access plate has been removed). Recheck tension. Tighten outer adjuster nut to lock it in place. Drink beer. Cheers, Terry

Welcome in!, You have good taste in toys. I'm assuming that FAL is more likely the FN-FAL... Cheers, Terry

Not a problem at all, as I took the photo and it's of the back of one of my Ferrets, I guess I own it You, and anyone else, can use it for whatever you like. Cheers, Terry

Try the usual suspects: Bannister's Makano Empire Trading Cheers, Terry

Hi Chris, I suspect that yours is missing the hinged pintle that goes through the hole in the head of the tripod. Cheers, Terry

I'm going to try lubing it all up with some liquid soap tonight, see if that helps... Cheers, Terry

I have been doing this tonight and it is a total pain. I have managed to get one belt on to the first row, but can't get it to move across to the second, after several hours of sweating and swearing. I have now given up for the night. Cheers, Terry

Steve, The manual has a pretty good wiring diagram in it and the Ferret has a pretty basic loom. I would suggest that any auto electrician should be able to sort it for you without too much trouble; they don't need any Ferret specific experience. Cheers, Terry

I'm tempted to take it in to an exhaust place and get a couple of flex pipes fitted.

I thought mine were missing some gaskets too. They are super-loose though... Cheers, Terry