Lauren Child

Is it some form of communication in the dark?

One of my mates referred me to the "rules for tractor collectors", many of which seem to apply to MVs as well.

too busy to respond *munch* *munch* *munch* chocolate egg *munch* *munch* priorities Happy Easter *munch*

It depends on the voltage - I looked everywhere for an intelligent 6 volt one with a decent current. All the ones I could find were aimed at small bike batteries or started at 12volt and 24 volt. You can get desulpherators seperately (in kit form if you are handy with a soldering iron), so that's my plan. I ended up with a Durite charger (its not very intelligent from what I understand - I think it's 2 or 3 stages), and I'll add the desulpherator at some stage to pulse and refresh the battery, giving me a reasonable solution. If I'd spotted it beforehand I'd have gone with one of the Abssaar chargers - not intelligent in the big sizes, but they have a really meaty 6/12/24 volt one that'll also do a jump start at lots of amps, so ideal for the old trucks.

I've just shown this thread to my other half, and she's asked "Is that a follow-me jeep for hungry aircrews?"

There's a Striker at one of the gates into Bicester http://g.co/maps/xbgvk I thought it might be a diesel one from this angle, but a side view shows the vents are not raised. All of the other striker's I've seen have had the hanging headlights though - is this unusual?

Thanks Clive :tup::

I may be going mad here but why does the coil have + and -. Surely a coil of wire doesn't have a polarity and will work either way around? The ignition could be on either side and make or break the circuit.

Just a ponderance but is it worth a sticky thread covering insurance - there aren't a lot of insurers that cover MVs, and it's something that affects us all.

What a load of rubbish. Embroidery and kittens are the very essence of motoring. Just look at this kitten fixing the string. http://icanhascheezburger.com/2007/10/05/can-someone-hand-me-the-12mm-socket/?utm_source=embed&utm_medium=web&utm_campaign=sharewidget They're good with armour as well Don't believe they're powered by embroidery? Well look here. from - http://www.craftycrafty.tv/2012/01/crafty_art_knitted_bmn_engine.html

This program can help with PCs as most will lock out after a few changes - http://www.dvd43.com/ I think you need to be careful of different country's laws though - I have no idea whether it's legal to go region free in Canada.

I emailed the chap and got a photo of the Abbots. One is without pack and one that's apparantly a runner but is looking rather tired. I'm hoping to go and see them at some point, depending on how close they are.

So to summarise, a Nikwax Professor created a cotton proofer that's proffered? :cool2:

I was hoping to be there, as I'm still at home I'm sure you'll all come back and tell me it was stacked to roof with CMP bits. :mad::cry:

This thread might help. http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?17655-Pre-1960-vehicles-who-can-drive-it it's got links to the relevant regulations as well

Looks like that you are going to have to tell us............... Tony I'm going to guess at "dating a girl with tattoos from a previous relationship, and you changed your name to avoid any embarrassing questions to her" (what a gentleman ) Mind if we call you Bruce now, it'll save on the confusion?

Excellent - this film rocked! Don't forget the music video with Peter Cushing looking for the way out

I'm hoping to be there Is this one better than Stoneleigh for vehicle bits and bobs?

The Bonda stuff sounds good but a quick google found this - http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=29185 Sounds like a trial on a bit of gash could be wise before doing a whole vehicle. On the projects that I've been involved with at Duxford we've mostly used red oxide, though I don't think it's got lead in it any more. They've all looked good when done. I've just picked some of the WarPaint red oxide to do the roof of my CMP, which is showing some rust coming through.

I was looking at these a while back. There were some cautions about sealing against moisture ingress (I seem to remember a story of one of them getting pushed up out of the floor by the water table), and I was told that vapours etc. that are heavier then air can collect down there. That said they've always looked like a good idea to me.

There's a chap somewhere around the forum that does these - http://www.pathfinderdistribution.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=52&category_id=17&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=64 :cool2:

I'd just like to echo this. You definitely can't do it on your own.

The best way that I've seen is to split the track at the front under the drive wheels. That way you can push the pin through with a drift (which means you can also control when it releases by removing the drift. The sprocket may or may not catch - don't trust it to hold the track). Later you can use the sprocket with some rope around it to wind the track back on most of the way. Make sure you've got lots of room behind the vehicle so the track can unwind all the way out and stand well clear. Make sure you leave enough track on both sides of the split so you can put the clamps on to join it back together. You will definitely need track clamps to put it back together. I would have thought Marcus Glenn can supply them if you don't have any with the vehicle. The manuals are also available from a number of places online - I'm sure one of the 432 owners on the forum can point you toward a decent photocopy.

Have you contacted these folks - http://maltahistoricvehicles.org/about.htm or http://www.amacs-malta.org/web/ to see if they know anyone local with tracked vehicle experience?

OK, it's not a difficult job, but it is potentially hazardous and takes a few people. If you don't have someone with you who's worked with these things before, then you probably need to put out a call for help on the forums or to the local MVT or IMPS groups. 432's are popular so you should be close to somebody. If I remember correctly the correct sequence of events is •Make sure the vehicle is on flat ground. Chock the wheels on the other side and make sure the vehcile is not going anywhere when you release the track. •Split the track so it's not resting on the idler anymore (its very very heavy and has a lot of energy when it moves, be very very careful) •Undo the big bolt on the hub (it looks like the odd one out) and drain the oil out. •Remove the hub cover (small bolts toward the centre of the hub) •Remove the inner cover (If I remember correctly theres a sealing cover inside that screws out) •Remove the big nut under this cover (there's a locking washer the you can bend out of the way with a screwdriver and hammer) •The hub can now come off the peg (be careful - it's very heavy) •You can now swap the wheels over to the new hub. The innards are very prone to damage due to mud and dust ingress at the back of the hub (there's no seal), so check for condition on the new one before you reassemble. I can't stress enough how important it is to have some experienced help and to know what you are doing when working with track. It also needs special tools to split and re-join, so make sure you have them and know how to use them. Where in the world are you?